How's your Farmtrac doing?

[NC419N]

Loud yes very but they get the job done! I have 2 555DTC's one with 128 hours that I bought new and one that I bought used with 300+ hours that must have been abused had to replace the shifter's they were worn almost to a point. But for the money and my "hobby" use they are perfect

 

[randyjinla]

I have a 300dtc with a little less than 900 hours on it. bought brand new. So far I've had to replace the main hydraulic pump and drive gear. It rounded the splines off the pump and the inside the gear. then last month I had to replace the sliding collar for the forward/reverse. But other than that I love the tractor.

 

[Chiggerville Farm]

NC419N, since you have two 555DTCs, maybe you can answer a couple of questions we have. 1. Have you ever had it in 4wd, power up in low low to scoop and pick up dirt with the front end loader, and suddenly have it start clanking? and 2. How do you stop the leaking at the boot for the rear wheel brake camshafts?

 

[NC419N]

I see that you have post in a couple of different places. I have replaced the boots on the "older" of the 555's that I have and can't what caused the first ones to leak.

 

[Chiggerville Farm]

Yes, we were looking for info because we're probably going to be fixing the tractor ourselves.

 

[PA28R200]

Hi All, This is my first time posting. I also have my first tractor too!

I just bought a Farm Trac 300 DTC with 393 hours. It seems to be in good shape. There are a few things I noticed after taking possession. 1) the loader doesn't seem to be able to lift the front wheels off the ground using the main cylinders. If I put the bucket flat to the ground, then try to lift the tractor with the main cylinders, I notice the brackets the loader arm pivot point attaches to moves backwards. I think I might have loose bolts. From what I've read, those bolts tend to loosen, or break. Hopefully they are just loose. I'll be checking that tomorrow. Other then that bracket part shifting backwards, the main cylinders still won't lift the front wheels of the tractor. It tries to. It does put some pressure on the front. But not enough to get the wheels off the ground.

I hear what sounds like a hydraulic relief valve going off (hissing at the control valve). It seems to be preventing it from applying enough downward pressure to lift the tractor. If I leave the loader with the bucket pressed against the ground, then rotate the bucket down, the bucket cylinders will lift the tractor. So, the mains will hold its position. I thought the problem might be that the cylinders might not have enough downward travel. So I tried lifting the tractor using the main cylinders while the bucket pointing down. No luck. The main cylinders wouldn't lift the tractor. I just get the hissing sound at the control valve.

Has anyone had the same experience? Is it expected that the mains should be able to apply enough downwards force to lift the front of the tractor? Other than the issue with the attachment point moving backwards, is this normal / expected behavior for Farm Trac?

2) Another issue is the foot throttle causes the engine RPM to stay high when released. The pedal doesn't sticks. So, I think the cable must be sticking/binding.

The only other thing I am trying to figure out is how much clutch life I have left. I tested the clutch by putting it in a higher gear, holding the brakes, and then dumping the clutch. The engine does die. I expected it to die sooner then it did though. I can't tell if the slight delay if the design of the hydraulic clutch itself, or if I'm getting a little slippage. The pedal needs to be released pretty far out before reaching the clutch friction point. I'd say, the friction point is at the last 25% of the pedal travel.

Overall, the tractor seems like its pretty solid. I've got some work for it to do--pulling Cedar trees, prepping the ground for a slab, pulling fence post, and augering holes for a new fence, and moving around some dirt with a box blade for a road back to the shop. I'll let you know more what I think about Farm Trac as I use it.

 

[DK35vince]

Hi All, This is my first time posting. I also have my first tractor too!

I just bought a Farm Trac 300 DTC with 393 hours. It seems to be in good shape. There are a few things I noticed after taking possession. 1) the loader doesn't seem to be able to lift the front wheels off the ground using the main cylinders. If I put the bucket flat to the ground, then try to lift the tractor with the main cylinders, I notice the brackets the loader arm pivot point attaches to moves backwards. I think I might have loose bolts. From what I've read, those bolts tend to loosen, or break. Hopefully they are just loose. I'll be checking that tomorrow. Other then that bracket part shifting backwards, the main cylinders still won't lift the front wheels of the tractor. It tries to. It does put some pressure on the front. But not enough to get the wheels off the ground.

I hear what sounds like a hydraulic relief valve going off (hissing at the control valve). It seems to be preventing it from applying enough downward pressure to lift the tractor. If I leave the loader with the bucket pressed against the ground, then rotate the bucket down, the bucket cylinders will lift the tractor. So, the mains will hold its position. I thought the problem might be that the cylinders might not have enough downward travel. So I tried lifting the tractor using the main cylinders while the bucket pointing down. No luck. The main cylinders wouldn't lift the tractor. I just get the hissing sound at the control valve.

Has anyone had the same experience? Is it expected that the mains should be able to apply enough downwards force to lift the front of the tractor? Other than the issue with the attachment point moving backwards, is this normal / expected behavior for Farm Trac?

2) Another issue is the foot throttle causes the engine RPM to stay high when released. The pedal doesn't sticks. So, I think the cable must be sticking/binding.

The only other thing I am trying to figure out is how much clutch life I have left. I tested the clutch by putting it in a higher gear, holding the brakes, and then dumping the clutch. The engine does die. I expected it to die sooner then it did though. I can't tell if the slight delay if the design of the hydraulic clutch itself, or if I'm getting a little slippage. The pedal needs to be released pretty far out before reaching the clutch friction point. I'd say, the friction point is at the last 25% of the pedal travel.

Overall, the tractor seems like its pretty solid. I've got some work for it to do--pulling Cedar trees, prepping the ground for a slab, pulling fence post, and augering holes for a new fence, and moving around some dirt with a box blade for a road back to the shop. I'll let you know more what I think about Farm Trac as I use it.

Do you have the bucket flat or rolled down when trying to lift the tractor with the main boom?
Most main booms will not go down low enough to lift the tractor with the bucket flat.
Tilt the bucket down some and then try lifting with the main boom. Should have no problem lifting then..

If your loader mount brackets are loose and moving.
Tighten/fix that immediately or it can cause some serious damage.

 

[PA28R200]

Hi. I tried that too. I raised the mains, pointed the bucket down, then lowered the mains. But it wouldn't lift the front wheels.

If I put the bucket flat, lower the mains to put the bucket on the ground, then rotate the bucket down, then it will lift the front wheels.

 

[dginter]

I've had my 555DTC for about 2 years now and I love it... really haven't had any issues worth mentioning with it, other than replacing rear brake boots, and flat tires from bush hogging (blame that on the honey locusts).
have worked it hard bush hogging, scooping w/ bucket (gravel & dirt), and lifting/moving with forks (trees, lumber, building materials, etc.)
4WD works great, rear tires are loaded and she handles hills great, very stable feeling tractor

 

[Tex5String]

Hi GrampawJ! I also have a 535, bought new in '05, have about 410 hrs on it now. I changed out the hydraulic fluid to eliminate clogging the intake strainer in 2011.
I just finished a valve adjust, but still hear a furious tapping/rattle from the front end. It begins about 20 seconds after starting and sounds like a handful of small screws being shaken very rapidly in a coffee can. I suspect it is a bearing in the alternator, so I'm gonna loosen the fanbelt and start it up and listen. To be continued . . .