Husky 346XP or 359? or something else?

[displacedPA]

hhaha yes I too have worked with ppl like that. dispite my age and size i still always try to "work smarter not harder" pace your self...

 

[bdeboer]

Not trying to turn this into bashing, but what do you think of your 290? How does it stack up to the 357?

I hear some people say they like the 290 and it is the most popular stihl, etc.

But My experience is that it is really slow and really heavy.

Your thoughts?

Sorry I missed this:

Compared to the 357 it is slow and heavy, but it has been reliable for 6 or 7 years. It also was 1/2 the price. If I did not have an outdoor wood-burner that ate alot of wood it would be adequate.

 

[Rod in Forfar]

DisplacedPA:

Your original question was a request for feedback on the Husqvarna 346XP, so here goes:

I bought one last fall from Alamia for 468 USD. They were about 800 CDN at the time in Ontario. I was looking for a lightweight, high performance saw, as I'm not getting any younger or fitter. In my salad years I proudly wielded a McCullough ProMac 85 with a 28" bar because I loved its cutting speed. Needless to say, I concentrated on the block wood and left the limbing to my dad with his lighter saw.

More recently I have used an inherited Husqvarna 51 with a 13" bar. It's a good saw, but limited in what it can cut. I bought the 346 with a 20" bar to fill that gap, and it has done it well.

So far I have blocked up five trees over 20": two wind-fallen Manitoba maples (box elder), two hard maples, and a bitternut hickory. When sharp, the saw cuts very well. I touched a rock and ruined a chain, but you can't blame the saw for that.

Cutting speed in block wood is good. The real difference, though, is in the limbing. The 346 with a 20" bar still weights a lot less than the 51 with a 13" bar. It is much less tiring to use because, apart from the weight, it reaches 7" further.

In my experience oak cuts pretty well. I don't see the big deal about it.

One surprise with the lightweight bar came when I jammed the tip roller after a pinch. I'm a bit prone to goofs where I pinch the bar. Once I had to pry the tip apart with a screwdriver to allow the chain to move. I'd never seen that before in 50 years of chain sawing. The pinched bar still works fine, but it brought to my attention the fact that this is a lightweight, high performance machine, and shouldn't be abused.

The safety concerns are over-rated. Just don't start cutting up blocks in a woodpile. It works like any other chain saw, just better.

I would definitely buy another 346XP. A new chain on the 51 is for volunteers. I'll keep the light one for myself.

 

[arrow]

DisplacedPA:


In my experience oak cuts pretty well. I don't see the big deal about it.

.

Depends on your attitude and production desires. I use my 346 for limbing and cut up about 6 cord per year. I'll buck theses trees with a 257.357 or 372 as these saws are much faster in thicker wood. There are fellas here doing 3 or 4 times that amount. Will a 346 cut up a 20" tree or two? Of course. Would I want this saw for a steady diet of such? no way. Not when there are saws that would buck up a tree much faster and you have alot of wood to cut. It is then where its deal looms larger. For the occasional blow down and non steady or smaller diet of wood production the 346 with an 18" bar is about as all around as you can get in a light, nice handling saw.

 

[LD1]

Depends on your attitude and production desires. I use my 346 for limbing and cut up about 6 cord per year. I'll buck theses trees with a 257.357 or 372 as these saws are much faster in thicker wood. There are fellas here doing 3 or 4 times that amount. Will a 346 cut up a 20" tree or two? Of course. Would I want this saw for a steady diet of such? no way. Not when there are saws that would buck up a tree much faster and you have alot of wood to cut. It is then where its deal looms larger. For the occasional blow down and non steady or smaller diet of wood production the 346 with an 18" bar is about as all around as you can get in a light, nice handling saw.

Well said:thumbsup:

Smaller and lighter saws definatally have their place.

But if a hefty diet of 20" plus hardwoods is on the menu, the 346xp (or any of the other little crackerbox-hotrod limbing saws) would be the LAST on my list of choices. A nice 70-80cc saw is good for bucking 20-30" wood. A 7900 or 372xp or MS460 is easially 3x's faster than a 346 when it comes to 20"+ wood. For me.....getting done 3x's faster with a 14lb saw isnt near as tiresome as spending 3x's as long with an 11lb saw:thumbsup:

 

[CJONE]

If you are doing the 1 saw plan 357-372 depending on the timber you are in. Average 10-15" 357, bigger 372. 2 saw plan 346 and the 372 or 576. I know for a fact if I could only have 1 saw it would be the 372. CJ

 

[xyz123]

I've lost track where this guy is on the fence now. But if I was looking to get a husky 357 359 I would be buying a husky 555 small mount or 562 large mount instead.

 

[displacedPA]

Well My two saw plan is complete last night I bought a 372xp from my local dealer. He was a little further out of the way than the other dealer but so much nicer to work with. I ran the 372xp a little just for break in she fired right up and sounds strong from the get go. I know the 346xp I bought last fall really gained more power after It got broke in. I cant wait to see how this saw runs after about ten tanks. Im using opti lube egd++ 2 stroke oil in the saw any one else use this stuff? I had a pro buddy tell me about it.

Here is the setup I got. 372xp 24''BC full chisel. I also had the dealer get me a skip chain I did have to pay for the skip chain. 800$ with out tax 854 with tax out the door.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

:laughing::laughing:What's the use of a chainsaw if you aren't going to use that fireplace behind it?

 

[displacedPA]

Oh we use that wood burning insert to heat the house with. Just a tad to warm this time of year