Hyd outlets
- Thread starter F2036
- Start date
I don't know specifially about your tractor, but 99% sure you will be able to. As for how much... need a little info., Does your tractor have a loader on it right now?
You might even be able to plug it into your loader valves, if you have them. Anyone confirm this?
Tractordata says: Hydraulic Type: open and Valve flow: 7.0 gpm. 4" will moving slow but should work.
Hopefully, someone smarter will come by
You might even be able to plug it into your loader valves, if you have them. Anyone confirm this?
Tractordata says: Hydraulic Type: open and Valve flow: 7.0 gpm. 4" will moving slow but should work.
Hopefully, someone smarter will come by
Chilly807
Elite Member
No problem to add remotes, there's a good chance Kubota will have a "kit" for doing just that.
If you do it yourself, you should be able to get everything you need for under $400. If you hire it out, it may be significantly more.
Sean
If you do it yourself, you should be able to get everything you need for under $400. If you hire it out, it may be significantly more.
Sean
Jay4200
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2005
- Messages
- 2,028
- Location
- Hudson/Weare, NH
- Tractor
- L4200GST w/ LA680 & BX2200D w/ LA211
A dual remote kit for my L4200 is either $1400 or $1700 (can't remember which - I passed out halfway though the number).
I am in the middle of putting on a dedicated dual remote setup for my snowblower - cost is about $300 in parts. $400 is probably about right to run a new set off of a loader or right out of the hydro block. The mechanical part of the project (mounts, brackets, hose routing, etc.) is the hard part.
JayC
IDIGDIRT
New member
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2009
- Messages
- 7
- Location
- Richmond,Virginia
- Tractor
- Kubota Grand L 4330HSTC, Caterpillar 242
The L series uses a stackable valve body for the remotes. You can add up to 3 valves which will have the handles exit on the right side of your seat( should be 3 long slots in front your PTO lever). They are also available with float detents now.
As for doing it yourself, you will need to remove the right rear tire and fender first. Straight in above the axle there is a small plate with 2(I think) bolts that hold the plate on. This plate will be removed and the valve body / bodies are bolted in place. The original plate is then bolted back over the last valve body.
When the L3010 came out you had to buy either a 1, 2, or 3 spool valve body, I started with 1 and had to sell that when I upgraded to 3. Now Kubota offers stackable valves, the only difference being longer bolts depending how many you want, up to a max of 3.
Now, the amount of fluid required to push that big of a cylinder is going to make it slow, any thoughts about a PTO driven pump to supply your splitter.
Hope this was of some help.
Edit- Jay is right on the prices, I have 3 valves, 2 for my TNT with float detents and 1 for my blade angle/offset.If I remember my kit installed was around $1800
As for doing it yourself, you will need to remove the right rear tire and fender first. Straight in above the axle there is a small plate with 2(I think) bolts that hold the plate on. This plate will be removed and the valve body / bodies are bolted in place. The original plate is then bolted back over the last valve body.
When the L3010 came out you had to buy either a 1, 2, or 3 spool valve body, I started with 1 and had to sell that when I upgraded to 3. Now Kubota offers stackable valves, the only difference being longer bolts depending how many you want, up to a max of 3.
Now, the amount of fluid required to push that big of a cylinder is going to make it slow, any thoughts about a PTO driven pump to supply your splitter.
Hope this was of some help.
Edit- Jay is right on the prices, I have 3 valves, 2 for my TNT with float detents and 1 for my blade angle/offset.If I remember my kit installed was around $1800
Last edited:
Thanks for the replys. I looked at a L3410 and a L3010, neither one of them had any hyd outlets.
I'm thinking about a used 35- 40 hp tractor and the fact that Kubota has metal fenders, almost flat platform etc is a selling point as far as I'm concerned.
I'm thinking about a used 35- 40 hp tractor and the fact that Kubota has metal fenders, almost flat platform etc is a selling point as far as I'm concerned.
IDIGDIRT
New member
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2009
- Messages
- 7
- Location
- Richmond,Virginia
- Tractor
- Kubota Grand L 4330HSTC, Caterpillar 242
F2036, My first Kubota was a L3010 bought new in 1999 and traded in 2005 for L4330HSTC. The 3010 was a great tractor and besides normal maintenance, the only thing I did to it in 6 years was replace the seat. I am 5 years into the 4330 and still have absolutely no problems whatsoever.
Chilly807
Elite Member
Keep in mind that installing remotes on the "basic" L series (2800/3400/3700) is more of a workout. There is no provision to add any at all, so you're starting from scratch, which is where I am. I'll need to cut into the hyd. pipe to the 3ph, add hose to go to the new valve, then return from the PB port to the 3ph line. Plus add a drain line to the sump, although that shouldn't be too bad. The toughest part is figuring out where to put the valve, the operator's station is already pretty crowded.
Sean
Sean
!!!!!!! What? Ok, I was just hoping this was going to be easy... but now I'm getting freaky :confused2:
I was going to mount the new spool just under the FEL controls. Use the line out of the FEL and plumb that line into the new spool and take the old line from the FEL and connect it to my PB in the new spool. Then "T" the other into the return line... I thought this was going to be simple?!?!?!?!
Man, I'm aging by the minute with hydraulics...
Chilly807, why are you cutting vs. using hoses to plumb in series?
Chilly807
Elite Member
My problem is I wanted to keep the new valve off the loader frame... I had planned to mount it to the left of the seat behind the shift lever. There's not much room to play with, as I had mentioned earlier..
I may end up doing exactly what you have planned, the frustration level is getting to the F*** It point otherwise.
The idea behind cutting into the pipe is that it's easier to do that using compression fittings in that location.
BTW, there is an unused drain connection on the bottom of the plumbing near the hydraulic filter. It looks like it's simply plugged, should be simple enough to add a 90* JIC fitting there and add your drain line.
I'd like to use hard lines for the remote runs, but the number of curves and bends I'd need would be outlandish.
Sean
I may end up doing exactly what you have planned, the frustration level is getting to the F*** It point otherwise.
The idea behind cutting into the pipe is that it's easier to do that using compression fittings in that location.
BTW, there is an unused drain connection on the bottom of the plumbing near the hydraulic filter. It looks like it's simply plugged, should be simple enough to add a 90* JIC fitting there and add your drain line.
I'd like to use hard lines for the remote runs, but the number of curves and bends I'd need would be outlandish.
Sean