Hydraulic detents... not a couple of teepees

[LD1]

It sounds like its no different than a front loader (or bull dozer or backhoe for that matter). Takes time to become a good operator.

When running a FEL do level and dig, there is no feedback, or stops, or detents. Same with a dozer, excavator, backhoe, etc. ITs all up to the skill of the operator not to cut too deep or too shallow.

Perhaps look into getting a 3PH mounted blade? OR even some flow controls to slow down the movement of the blade you have to be able to be more precise?

 

[jenkinsph]

I suspect there is a way... and if not, there should be.

I've read the manual... I've looked it up (or attempted to) online without success.

Recently I purchased a hydraulically elevating drag blade. I love it... but the biggest hassel is finding the correct depth after raising it to dump trash etc. I find I am either digging deep requiring me to fix the mistake or skimming too high, doing nothing more than burning diesel and daylight.

It is hooked up to my main hydraulic valve. This setup has a float option, if that makes any difference.

I simply don't know how to set up a 'depth' level for hydraulics. We never had the option on a 4020 other than a little stop to set 3point depth. And, I spend an inordinate amount of time screwing around with depth each and every time I raise the blade.

Tractor:
JD 5100e with FEL
2 hydraulic valves in the back. 1 with float function.

Equipment is a single cylinder 12ft drag blade with works fantastically for what I need, but requires precise depth every time. I'm also going to need this when I use my new (to me) 6yd scraper.
My goal is to be able to simply 'push it down' and it will go to the correct depth for skimming the highspots and filling low. I want to be able to push it 'further' should I desire, but mainly, I want it to return to the same depth after I raise it.

I use to have a Deere hydraulic cylinder with a built in adjustable hydraulic stop. Used to set the depth of an offset disc, worked well and was easy to change settings on. For your description of the issue of returning to a set depth this would be the easiest solution. None of the cylinder stop methods whether hydraulic or clip on stop block methods will allow you to over ride the settings.



If you are moving enough dirt to need a drag box and 6yd scraper you may consider adding machine control. What works for you depends on the terrain, flat planar properties are easy to do with a laser controlled blade system. Simple indicate laser systems start around $3,000. and automatic control systems can run up to $20.000. More expensive GPS machine control systems might not be practical mainly due to cost and set up. The GPS systems are better to work contouring and complex jobs.

Skimming the high spots and filling the lows as you mention, I use a land plane grader scraper for this. Even jobs I will grade to high accuracy are easier to work with after a lpgs is used to smooth out the bumps first. This reduces the amount of up and down motions the box needs to make to stay on grade.. I remove the trash first before attempting to grade a field as trash is hard to grade. This should allow you to adjust your drag box and keep it set for much longer engagement times/cycles.

 

[Dadnatron]

Thanks,

My issue is I don't want it 'level' I want it smooth. I am working on mild hills etc.

But I appreciate the information and will keep it in mind when/if I do pad work for my barns.

 

[MORRISONSTEEL]

"return to dig" that is what the feature built into many late model loaders (generally only larger farm loaders & const machines) is called and does exactly what you are talking about......but for loaders. That feature has never been commercially applied to 3 point applications other than gps/laser controlled etc versions to the best that I can recall (but could be very wrong). And as mentioned above... quite spendy.

 

[Dadnatron]

Morrison...

That's exactly what I need, a return to dig feature... but on a set of cylinder valves.

I've used it on CTLs and I think it is a great time saver on repetitive tasks.

 

[jenkinsph]

Thanks,

My issue is I don't want it 'level' I want it smooth. I am working on mild hills etc.

But I appreciate the information and will keep it in mind when/if I do pad work for my barns.

I get that and recognize the difference between smooth and level.

The options you want the cylinder to have,
fully extend to raise the drag box and dump
retract the cylinder to a preset length/depth
and last be able to fully retract the cylinder

You may consider using the second scv and a cylinder to operate a depth stop that limits the linkage travel while engaged, when retracted the linkage allows for full travel of the wheels.

 

[Dadnatron]

Purchased a couple sets of the spacer blocks... I am sadly disappointed. They simply pushed off the shaft over the end. Perhaps they would work if the shaft had a large flat stop. Against which these could uniformly butt up against. However, I simply have regular shaft welded to connector type ends.

 

[rustyshakelford]

Unfortunately that style block won't work well on that cylinder. I honestly can't think of one that would. On a separate note, it looks like it's a little past due for a grease gun party! Keep up the work, looking good

Brett

 

[Dadnatron]

Heh... its just been repainted. And today was the first actual 'use' but... I do see your point.

 

[DieselBound]

Morrison...

That's exactly what I need, a return to dig feature... but on a set of cylinder valves.

I've used it on CTLs and I think it is a great time saver on repetitive tasks.

Operating in muse mode...

Any chance that running FEL lines back to the rear (FEL removed) might offer some chance and coming up with what you need?