Hydraulic Line Help Please

[mustangfarm]

Hi, thanks for your reply. I don't think I would need to open/release any as the backhoe was on it's bucket and stabilizers when i removed it but has since lowered itself so the mounting frame is sitting on the ground too. It has released a few teaspoons of fluid, even though the 2 hoses are looped/connected to each other. Maybe I should just open them and clean them and reconnect? There is only 1 way these hoses all can connect. There is only 1 male and 1 female on the tractor and same on the backhoe. When the hoe is removed there is a bypass hose on the tractor that loops the fluid back, it can only go on the 1 male fitting too. With it not connected the bucket won't even work, I tried! With it connected, the hydraulics work but it drips.. So it's connecting at least enough to pass fluid and make things work but maybe not seated fully? It could not be pulled out and I did about 15-20min of work with it dripping and a rag tied around it.

 

[Dave M7040]

When the bypass hose is on and you do something on the tractor's rear end to make the hydraulic pressure build up. ... raising the 3 pt with a load on it for example, then the bypass hose should be under pressure and leak if the couplers are bad.

Try borrowing the coupler halves from the bypass hose and put them on the hoe hoses.

Dave M7040

 

[mustangfarm]

Well that is the thing, they both are leaking.. The hoe couplers on or off the tractor and the bypass hose on the tractor.

 

[Dave M7040]

Well that is the thing, they both are leaking.. The hoe couplers on or off the tractor and the bypass hose on the tractor.

Weird. Suggest you take the bypass hose to a local hydraulic shop and ask them to sell you one coupler pair to match the two different ends on the bypass hose.

Then use one new end of the coupler on the one of the hoe hoses. Use the other half of the new coupler on the tractor so you have a new mating pair of couplers. Do this on the line that you believe to be the high pressure one not the return,,, It the leak stop.... success. Couplers bought at independent shops are usually reasonably price in my experience often lower if you offer to pay cash with no receipt. There is no need to go with sophisticated couplers in your application.

Dave M7040

 

[mustangfarm]

My feeling now is that I am not getting these hoses on all the way. They are on enough to not fly off and for fluid to pass but not to make a good seal. I notice a shiny area that is exposed when I have the couplers connected. I look at my loader couplers and there is no such space. I also looked at some at the dealer on backhoes and no such space.. Granted the loader and the dealer backhoes are different brand couplers, kubota ones.. Mine say made in italy.. so maybe they connect differently but it seems mine should go on more but I have moved the bucket control every which way til nothing moves and I have lowered my 2 pt hitch all the way to the ground and I still can not push this on any further. I have tried with/without the collar retracted.. See photos.

 

[Dave M7040]

My feeling now is that I am not getting these hoses on all the way. They are on enough to not fly off and for fluid to pass but not to make a good seal. I notice a shiny area that is exposed when I have the couplers connected. I look at my loader couplers and there is no such space. I also looked at some at the dealer on backhoes and no such space.. Granted the loader and the dealer backhoes are different brand couplers, kubota ones.. Mine say made in italy.. so maybe they connect differently but it seems mine should go on more but I have moved the bucket control every which way til nothing moves and I have lowered my 2 pt hitch all the way to the ground and I still can not push this on any further. I have tried with/without the collar retracted.. See photos.View attachment 600502View attachment 600503

I had couplers on an older Allied Loader, a 660, which required me to twist the knurled coupler collar in order to draw the coupler together. the coupler would never close with just pushing. The male end had a spiral grove which meshed with balls in the female knurled part. As you turned the knurled collar it screwed the male end into complete closure and lock

Try this and see what happens

Dave M7040

 

[ericm979]

Pioneer 4050s have the regular collar that pulls back to unlock. When the male part is fully seated the collar snaps back and there's a click.

1/2" couplers can have 3/4" threads.

 

[mustangfarm]

I'm thinking I may have pressure in the lines keeping me from putting them together correctly. The hose goes on though and the machine operates but just drips..
I would have thought moving all the levers on the bucket/3point would have released it..
I should have moved all the hoe levers before I disconnected it but I didn't. In fact i had weight of the hoe on the stabilizers when i disconnected it..

 

[ericm979]

Moving the levers on the tractor should release the pressure. Maybe they need to be moved in reverse order, last in the chain first?

I've had my BH lines be pressurized even though I connected them together when I took it off the tractor. The way it was sitting there was weight on the boom. That pressurized the female connector and I could not get it's male to seat. It was obvious that it was not in and seated. I ended up removing the connector from its hose to let the pressure out.

 

[mustangfarm]

Revisited this today with a clear mind.. The coupler is going on all the way. That exposed band in my pic is normal, based on the distance from the ball bearings to the end of the female 1/2 and the distance of the groove in the male... Fired it up again and let it idle about 5min, still got a drip at the bottom. Doesn't seem as bad as it was the other day but it's 50 deg out and it is all cold.. The other day when it was dripping fast, the fluid was hot as I was working it pretty hard.. I think I just need to replace these and be done with it. thanks all