Hydraulic Top Link "Homemade"

[ovrszd]

If you get the OEM remote with the float function, there is no reason to have the slot in the clevis. You would then have a redundant feature. And I believe that the valve with the float function is less $$ than the self canceling valve. Plus you can then have the pin hole up closer to the closed end of the clevis and you loose nothing by using the 8" stroke cylinder.

Hmmm,,, I gotta think about that one. If running my brush cutter and carrying the front of it with the 3pt I wouldn't be able to run the tilt cylinder in float. So if the right side of the cutter hit high ground it wouldn't be able to ride up over it.

Yeah, I definitely want the FD valve. My tractor currently has an SCD valve and a FD valve. My SCD valve works great for running ground engagement equipment like a wheel disc or field cultivator. Everything else I do with the FD valve.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Hmmm,,, I gotta think about that one. If running my brush cutter and carrying the front of it with the 3pt I wouldn't be able to run the tilt cylinder in float. So if the right side of the cutter hit high ground it wouldn't be able to ride up over it.

Yeah, I definitely want the FD valve. My tractor currently has an SCD valve and a FD valve. My SCD valve works great for running ground engagement equipment like a wheel disc or field cultivator. Everything else I do with the FD valve.

Yes you would have some problems with the mower if you tried to use the float feature. I hadn't thought about using the slot float function with a mower. :ashamed: I am always thinking in the grading mode. You are right, it would be best to have both. Still think that you should just bend the clevis in the press and then mill out the slots. Weld on some 1/4"x 1/2" for the guides and you are all set. Makes for a very nice clevis, actually better than the OEM unit.

 

[Rustyiron]

Look at your top link at the tractor end, I believe that you have a 3/4" dia cat 1 pin holding it on. Yes the implement end of the 3pt hitch is cat 2 only, but the tractor end of the top link is cat 1. I can even see this in the picture with the top link next to it.

I had to go look and your right, I have not had it off yet to see:thumbsup: I appreciate your response and also your contributions here on tbn Thanks

 

[Deere5420]

Bringing up an older thread, but Richard, I'm thinking about getting a HTL, and was wondering what the advantage is of using 3/8" lines like you did, instead of using 1/2", as the 1/2" seems to be more common.

 

[ovrszd]

I used smaller lines to better tolerate the sharp bends and take up less space. Fluid flow and/or cylinder speed isn't critical so no loss observed.

Keep us posted on your project. You are gonna love it!!! I use one on my Ford as well.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I used smaller lines to better tolerate the sharp bends and take up less space. Fluid flow and/or cylinder speed isn't critical so no loss observed.

Keep us posted on your project. You are gonna love it!!! I use one on my Ford as well.

I used 1/4" lines for my hydraulic top link. Speed is nice and slow.

 

[Deere5420]

Ok, thanks. Appreciate the replies.

 

[Fallon]

I got restrictors in my setup from FitRite. The holes in them are pencil lead size... mechanical pencil, not the yellow wooden ones. My TnT is a bit noisy, but very controllable. I'd hate to try and control it for any accuracy without restrictors, or at least tiny hose.

 

[ovrszd]

I don't experience any control issues without restrictors. When using a brush cutter I like speed of movement.

 

[Happy Gilmore]

Nicely done, per usual my friend.