Hydraulic Top Link

[MarkV]

I have two controls inside the cab that go to the ports. I think the previous owner had a hydraulic top link and a hydraulic "vertical arm" (I don't know the correct name for this part).

Anyway, can't I just order a 1" cylinder from xyz store and install it? I know I will have to make sure the length is right. Or is there something that I am missing?

Sounds like you have the remotes to run hydraulic cylinders for the 3 pt hitch which are often call a top n tilt or a t and t system. And yes you could run any cylinder if you can find the right size. Where you will have a problem is finding the proper size with the proper travel and also you will have to have the proper ends welded to it after cutting the existing ends off. If you have those skills it can be done, several here on the forum have done it.

If you are going to have to take them to a machine shop for modification you may be better off cost wise just buying the ones from the dealer listed above. Another advantage to the ones Mark at CC Machinery imports is they have a built in check valve. This keeps the cylinder from leaking down while in use so you do not have to readjust them once set. The check valve system seems to be hard to find at the xyz store.

MarkV

 

[Reg]

I've had one from CCM for about six months now and it is very handy. While it makes hooking up very easy (no more threads!) it also makes UNhooking challenging. I just spent ten minutes today unhooking my box scraper because I couldn't find the 'null spot' where there was no tension on the top-link so I could unhook it. Any tips here?

-Brian

Somewhere there was a thread that suggested/recommended a free link in the top link. I don't remember why, or what problem it was trying to solve, but it was basically a couple of links of big fat chain added to the top link to give some slack there. It might have been to reduce some sort of kicking up and bending of the top link, I don't remember.
Chain links that are big and fat enough to take a 7/8 pin through.
Anyhow, something like that might work to help find the slack spot.

 

[EZ-HITCH]

Sounds like you have the remotes to run hydraulic cylinders for the 3 pt hitch which are often call a top n tilt or a t and t system. And yes you could run any cylinder if you can find the right size. Where you will have a problem is finding the proper size with the proper travel and also you will have to have the proper ends welded to it after cutting the existing ends off. If you have those skills it can be done, several here on the forum have done it.

If you are going to have to take them to a machine shop for modification you may be better off cost wise just buying the ones from the dealer listed above. Another advantage to the ones Mark at CC Machinery imports is they have a built in check valve. This keeps the cylinder from leaking down while in use so you do not have to readjust them once set. The check valve system seems to be hard to find at the xyz store.

MarkV

What should I be looking for in size and travel? The northern tool catalog has several different sizes.

 

[skipmarcy]

First thing - a 1" cylinder is not big enough - the ram will be too small to take the load. When I built mine I used a 2 1/2" cylinder with a 1 1/8" rod with a stroke of 8", cost me $59 from Surplus Center. Had to cut the ends off, bought weld-on swivel eyes from TSC and at this time I fine-tuned the retracted length of the rig by cutting "X" amount off the rod before welding the end on. Every tractor's 3ph is a little different, you need to take an accurate measurement of retracted length for your hitch & implements. On my tractor, 16" retracted from center to center of the swivel eyes worked perfectly. You will find with most implements that the retracted length is the most important, with an 8" stroke I have never had to extend it that far out to use it, it's all in shortening the toplink to get good angles for the boxblade and getting the tail of my bushog up high enough to get it on my trailer etc. I also installed a Prince double-pilotted check valve - there are different opinions on needing one, my toplink definitely stays put with the valve whether the tractor is running or not, can't say without it, never tried. If your hydraulic controls are all tight as a drum, you probably don't need one but as parts wear, you might experience some leak-down.

As far as you guys that are having trouble getting the toplink pin out of your implement, I've never had that problem. My retracted length is shorter than any I could find ready-made at the time, that's the main reason why I built my own. My whole rig with hoses was only slightly cheaper than buying from CCM, but their retracted length was too long to get much use out of my 3ph. On my boxblade I use a short piece of treated 2x4 on each front side of the box as they are worn-down on an angle and the box wants to roll forward when released from the hitch. With the 2x4's in place I can jog my toplink to center the pin just fine and it slips right out. Don't have a bit of problem with my rotary or PHD.

 

[n8wrl]

Somewhere there was a thread that suggested/recommended a free link in the top link. I don't remember why, or what problem it was trying to solve, but it was basically a couple of links of big fat chain added to the top link to give some slack there. It might have been to reduce some sort of kicking up and bending of the top link, I don't remember.
Chain links that are big and fat enough to take a 7/8 pin through.
Anyhow, something like that might work to help find the slack spot.

Interesting - I'll do a search. That might not help me in this case because the box scraper needs a rigid top-link. For the bushhog it is great because there's no problem since it wants some slack anyway.

-Brian

 

[JerryG]

I've had one from CCM for about six months now and it is very handy. While it makes hooking up very easy (no more threads!) it also makes UNhooking challenging. I just spent ten minutes today unhooking my box scraper because I couldn't find the 'null spot' where there was no tension on the top-link so I could unhook it. Any tips here?

-Brian

I move the remote slowly until I see the pin rock ever so slightly on the implement end. The pin then comes out fine.

Surplus Center now has cylinders with the swivel balls on several different lengths and diameters of cylinders. The ball is kind of close to the stationary end on the cylinder. I have to put the cylinder in the top draft hole to keep the cylinder from hitting the third arm mount.

 

[Dougster]

Surplus Center now has cylinders with the swivel balls on several different lengths and diameters of cylinders. The ball is kind of close to the stationary end on the cylinder. I have to put the cylinder in the top draft hole to keep the cylinder from hitting the third arm mount.

I like those prices at Surplus Center! I could almost do that today!

So do I really need the check valves or not???

Dougster

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I like those prices at Surplus Center! I could almost do that today!

So do I really need the check valves or not???

Dougster

I would say no. I do not have them on mine and have not needed them. I may be wrong, but I do not think that any that you buy from Kubota or John Deere or implement manufactures have the check valves. None of the commercial tractors that I have seen have them. But then again most of the tractor world could be wrong.

If you get one, get a 3" cylinder and be done with it.

Remember that if you buy it, that was your food money for the rest of the year.

 

[Dougster]

I would say no. I do not have them on mine and have not needed them. I may be wrong, but I do not think that any that you buy from Kubota or John Deere or implement manufactures have the check valves. None of the commercial tractors that I have seen have them. But then again most of the tractor world could be wrong. If you get one, get a 3" cylinder and be done with it. Remember that if you buy it, that was your food money for the rest of the year.

You rich left coast folks really like to rub it in... don't ya???

Brian, I think I am limited to a 1-1/2" bore for a Cat I 3-point... otherwise the pins won't match the pin holes:

http://www.surpluscenter.com/pages/035.pdf

Dougster

 

[MtnViewRanch]

You rich left coast folks really like to rub it in... don't ya???

Brian, I think I am limited to a 1-1/2" bore for a Cat I 3-point... otherwise the pins won't match the pin holes:

http://www.surpluscenter.com/pages/035.pdf

Dougster

Bushings man, bushings.

Doug, make one yourself, it's the only way to get it right. Buy the 3" cylinder, buy an aftermarket top link, a little cutting and welding and you have a hydraulic top link that is the right size for your tractor.

And it only costs you 6 months worth of meals, didn't you say that you needed to go on a diet? Although the only diet that I can think that you might need to go on would be a real food diet and get off that peanut butter & bread diet, that gets old quick.

Oh well, more food for thought.