3-Point Hitch hydraulic top link

[alflen52]

have read a lot of comments about hydraulic top links,seems like it would be a handy addition to smaller tractors,with the limited lift they have.doesn,t seem too difficult,just a cylinder of the right size and hoses.anybody done this?

 

[Richard]

I've not done it but I love the idea of it. I just acquired an International 1066 that was a dedicated mowing machine so its top-link is missing. (I bought it to also use as a mower). If I get a box blade for it, I'm seriously considering both top & tilt for it. Until then....I'll just keep the $$ in my pocket, I don't want to spend the funds if I end up not using tractor in that capacity.

 

[FTG-05]

have read a lot of comments about hydraulic top links,seems like it would be a handy addition to smaller tractors,with the limited lift they have.doesn,t seem too difficult,just a cylinder of the right size and hoses.anybody done this?

Plus a control valve and connectors (rear remotes) on the back of the tractor.

 

[Whitbread]

I just installed a 3 spool valve on my 1620 for top, tilt, and a pair of quick connects for whatever. Using the top link with my boom pole for logging has been a godsend, the range of motion is doubled. I've only graded the driveway once so far, but it made the job soooooo much more efficient being able to dial in the right angle instantly while in motion.

Top link was only $155 from dalton hydraulics and the side link 1.5x4 cylinder from magister hydraulics was only $86. I'm going to cut the ends off my fixed link and weld them to the cylinder.

Here's pictures of my setup.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...rating/402176-adding-rear-remotes-1620-a.html

 

[Xfaxman]

have read a lot of comments about hydraulic top links,seems like it would be a handy addition to smaller tractors,with the limited lift they have.doesn,t seem too difficult,just a cylinder of the right size and hoses.anybody done this?

The right size cylinder also has to have the right ends on it:

 

[RjCorazza]

I had a hydraulic toplink with 2 remotes installed on my Kubota when new. My reasoning for the hydraulic toplink was I didn’t care for constantly adjusting the toplink when changing implements.
It’s a nice feature, but mine leaks down so I have to keep an eye on it t when the mounted implement needs to be at a certain angle.

 

[oosik]

I bought a hydraulic top link five years ago. I upgraded to my current tractor - 2009 Kubota M6040 - new, in 2009. Slowly but surely I've "chewed on the bullet" and traded in and/or sold all my class 1 implements - replacing them with class 2.

There are a lot of things that can be said about class 2 implements - the word seldom heard - - cheap.

So - after hundreds of trail/error on getting these ground engagement implements to work up to their expected level - I got the hydraulic top link. What a dramatic change - - I now am able to make finite adjustments while on the go. I no longer have to accept - "well, that's good enough". I tweak that hydraulic lever until the implement is performing at its very peak of efficiency.

I am now able to do things with my ground engagement implements that I never thought was possible.

I got my hydraulic top link from - Brian at FitRiteHydraulics.com He is a member of TBN - Mtn View Ranch.

Excellent piece of equipment - not a moments problems after five years of use.

 

[alflen52]

that cylinder looks perfect,who makes it?

 

[John_Mc]

Strongly suggest you go with someone who sells hydraulic toplinks (and side links) with the double piloted check valves. I did not, and the resulting leakdown has had me regretting my decision for over a decade. One of these days I'll get around to replacing them with what I should have purchased originally.

 

[shooterdon]

Plus a control valve and connectors (rear remotes) on the back of the tractor.

I have been wondering.....the cost of the valve, tapping into the hydraulic circuit, and mounting it might be an issue for me....so....would it be acceptable to run QC hoses from the FEL curl function to the hydraulic top link. I am not experienced...a complete newbie....and have little knowledge of hydraulics. Or can I use a diverter valve, similar to what I have read about using the curl function to power a grapple? I think I can live without have the curl function on the FEL if it allows an easier and cheaper way to get a hydraulic top link.

I am wondering if tapping into the circuit to install a "normal" top link valve will have fluid spilling all over the place? Same issue with adding a diverter valve?

Seems to me a $200 cylinder and a few feet of hose will accomplish the same function at 1/2 the price. Yet, I like the idea of the diverter valve (adds more cost), if it is less money and easier to do, as if I needed to use the FEL I would not need to switch QC's. But is it just as much trouble/cost to install a diverter valve as doing it right in the first place?

Sorry for all the dumb questions.