jimgerken
Veteran Member
I will second that opinion ""check valves may be valuable, but not a necessity"". I built my own toplink from a cylinder purchased used. No check valves, just a cylinder with hoses. Now I use it more than I ever imagined.
Toplink Hydraulic top link.
- Thread starter N80
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N80
Super Member
My initial thought in all this was just to buy my own cylinder and hoses and make it myself.
When I used my rear remotes on a big pull type mower with a ram for raising and lowering the rear wheels, it never leaked down and the ram on the mower did not have a check valve.
Putting the check valve issue aside:
Most of the rams I see for sale have pin tpye attachments on the ends. How do you get ball-ends onto a generic ram?
I've seen hose size mentioned with 1/4" recommended. I'm assuming that if the hose is larger it will be harder to make slow or accurate adjustments?
Let's say I did finally build this thing myself (just hoses and a ram, no check valve) and it leaked down or would not hold position. Can I buy and add a check valve later?
Thanks.
P.S.: my DIY skills are fair. I do my own basic servicing of the tractor, I can do home plumbing, etc. I don't weld and don't have any specialized tools.
When I used my rear remotes on a big pull type mower with a ram for raising and lowering the rear wheels, it never leaked down and the ram on the mower did not have a check valve.
Putting the check valve issue aside:
Most of the rams I see for sale have pin tpye attachments on the ends. How do you get ball-ends onto a generic ram?
I've seen hose size mentioned with 1/4" recommended. I'm assuming that if the hose is larger it will be harder to make slow or accurate adjustments?
Let's say I did finally build this thing myself (just hoses and a ram, no check valve) and it leaked down or would not hold position. Can I buy and add a check valve later?
Thanks.
P.S.: my DIY skills are fair. I do my own basic servicing of the tractor, I can do home plumbing, etc. I don't weld and don't have any specialized tools.
MadReferee
Elite Member, Rest in Peace
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- Kubota B2710, IH TD6-62 dozer with Drott 4n1 bucket loader
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I've seen hose size mentioned with 1/4" recommended. I'm assuming that if the hose is larger it will be harder to make slow or accurate adjustments? )</font>
Using a smaller diameter hose is akin to using a flow restrictor. This will slow down the cylinder sufficiently so that feathering and precise adjustments will become so much easier.
Using a smaller diameter hose is akin to using a flow restrictor. This will slow down the cylinder sufficiently so that feathering and precise adjustments will become so much easier.
jimgerken
Veteran Member
You have to weld. TIG is prefered for best fusion, MIG is OK if you have plenty of amperage to apply. If the cylinder is a welded-type, you can extend the ram and optionally fill it with oil, and do not cap the ports, and weld away, keeping the chromed rod cool with a wet rag wrapped on. The other end, the base end, can also be welded onto while the rod is extended, and optionally with oil inside. The oil is discarded after welding. If the cylinder is a tie-rod type, the base is cast. I do not know how to weld the cast reliably, especially for the forces you expect to put on a hydraulic cylinder. Even on a cast tie-rod cylinder, you can weld the rod end if you keep it from overheating with the wet rag idea, and cooling often. These are my methods gleaned from the experience here on TBN, and from farming days. Other readers may have other ideas and correct my writeup. This stuff has worked for me in the past. Good luck.
OkieG
Veteran Member
The Prince cylinder used for my hyd. toplink came as a cylinder only. Ball-ends were picked up at Tractor Supply. As Jim suggested, I extended the cylinder and wrapped the chrome rod with a damp rag before welding. Both the cylinder rod and base welded easily. The rod didn't even get warm. The rag probably served more to protect the rod from spatter than anything. The whole welding thing went real smooth.
OkieG
OkieG
Turkeyman
Silver Member
It will make a major difference with the BB and a bottom plow or Disc too. For some odd reason my side links bleed down but my top links never have. Neither of my tractors had check valves.