hydrostatic drive warn out! Heavy oil yes or no
- Thread starter Roto
- Start date
Soundguy
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If it has a filter.. that's good.. since the detergent oil will try to suspend gunk for removal. If it didn't have a filter.. I might cause it to wear more.. course.. as it is already 'worn-out' that's not a big concern either..
Soundguy
Soundguy
Bob_Young
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Roto, did you save the Hy-Tran you drained out of her? You might want to put that back in come winter. Gets a mite cool in your neck of the woods that time of year.
Hopefully the 15-40W won't thicken up so much that things starve for lubrication when it gets cold.
Bob
Hopefully the 15-40W won't thicken up so much that things starve for lubrication when it gets cold.
Bob
I didnt save that hy-tran because it was over due for changing anyway.
Im aware of the not so good of flow this winter. Im not sure what Im going to do just yet. I had the radiator power flushed and took thermostat out to get her to run as cool as i could for the summer. Ihave a temp guage on it and she runs about 190 when its hot and maybe got to 200 once when realy working it but thats not that bad. I have a home-made roll down cover for front of radiator and that warms everything up real quick when its cold I plan on running it like that this winter until it reaches 190 if it gets that high and then rolling it back up and that should warm things up pretty quick. I have another tractor(TC33D) which i can plow with if its real cold. I may put a front mount snowblower on that TC33d and use that. The only time I use this international hydro is for plowing and that is only about 10 times a year. I hope to keep that 15/40 in it and I will park it if it doesnt work out but i think if i keep temp up that it will be warm enough to make it through. I can plow in 2 hours so thats 20 hours per winter.
Mike
Im aware of the not so good of flow this winter. Im not sure what Im going to do just yet. I had the radiator power flushed and took thermostat out to get her to run as cool as i could for the summer. Ihave a temp guage on it and she runs about 190 when its hot and maybe got to 200 once when realy working it but thats not that bad. I have a home-made roll down cover for front of radiator and that warms everything up real quick when its cold I plan on running it like that this winter until it reaches 190 if it gets that high and then rolling it back up and that should warm things up pretty quick. I have another tractor(TC33D) which i can plow with if its real cold. I may put a front mount snowblower on that TC33d and use that. The only time I use this international hydro is for plowing and that is only about 10 times a year. I hope to keep that 15/40 in it and I will park it if it doesnt work out but i think if i keep temp up that it will be warm enough to make it through. I can plow in 2 hours so thats 20 hours per winter.
Mike
Soundguy
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( and took thermostat out to get her to run as cool as i could for the summer )</font>
Removing a thermostat does not automatically make an engine run cooler. Thermostats are there for a reason.. to make an engine run in a temp band.
Sometimes that necesitates letting the water set inthe radiator for a short period of time to be cooled, before going back to the engine. ...
soundguy
Removing a thermostat does not automatically make an engine run cooler. Thermostats are there for a reason.. to make an engine run in a temp band.
Sometimes that necesitates letting the water set inthe radiator for a short period of time to be cooled, before going back to the engine. ...
soundguy
TractorLegend
Platinum Member
I agree with the idea an engine needs a t/stat.
Some of the "newer" designs with the disc at the bottom block a bypass hole in the engine- if you just remove the stat the flow is all wrong and can cause hot spots. I know Cummins says its a big no-no.
Its one of those areas its human nature to think the colder the better but not so.
Some of the "newer" designs with the disc at the bottom block a bypass hole in the engine- if you just remove the stat the flow is all wrong and can cause hot spots. I know Cummins says its a big no-no.
Its one of those areas its human nature to think the colder the better but not so.
Here is a follow up. After having a tractor that wouldnt hardly move when it got hot due to warn out pumps or whatever I put 15w40 ursa hd motor oil in it and have ran it through 2 hay seasons now and had no problems. I have done 14000 bales and use it for mowing and baling and I also left the oil in there and plowed all winter with no problem too. Same oil is in there 2 years later and it runs like a top so I got my 2 years out of it and I know i can get another 2 no problem so im glad i tried the heavy oil thing instead of junking the tractor or paying $3000 to fix it. Thanks to all that said that heavy oil would do the trick. It did!!!
Mike
Mike
sequoyah101
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I read your old thread and am inspired to try your "fix" on my loader. Same as your tractor, when it gets warmed up it is a pig. It is worse in reverse than forward but not good either way. I have two theories, maybe three or four that are embedded in these thoughts:
1. I have replaced the relief valves, they were worn badly and visibly washed out.
2. No idea how old the oil is or what the original viscosity is.
3. The machine is a German made Schaeff with a Rexroth hydrostatic transmission. The specs call for 30 wt / ISO 100 hydraulic oil. That is an uncommon hydraulic oil and so it is easy for someone to put the wrong oil in the machine sometime in its life which is about 6,700 hours. Old but not dead, certainly not the little Perkins Parma engine and the Rexroth should have lasted for up to 10,000 hours but may have been damaged a long time ago by contamination. The pump or motor may be just worn out, most likely.
4. Oil wears out as well and I have no idea how old this oil is or what the viscosity is, probably less than half of what it should be.
5. Reverse being worse than forward indicates more wear or some damage on that side of the kidney plate, OK for suck but not so much for blow.
I am going to find some ISO 100 or better hydraulic oil and give it a go.
Thanks for the inspiration to try what I have been thinking about for so long. I'll let you know how it turns out if you are still around.
My little Komatsu excavator requires 30 wt engine oil for the hydraulics but they are just gear pumps.
My Dozer wants AW46 and it is Sundstrand hydrostatic. I can get that at the ag supply store.
ISO 100 is a little hard to come by in hydraulic oil so instead of just engine oil I'll go to the jobber and see if I can get 15 gallons of the stuff. anxious to try this since I use the machine with my brush cutter and need to trim fences this winter.
1. I have replaced the relief valves, they were worn badly and visibly washed out.
2. No idea how old the oil is or what the original viscosity is.
3. The machine is a German made Schaeff with a Rexroth hydrostatic transmission. The specs call for 30 wt / ISO 100 hydraulic oil. That is an uncommon hydraulic oil and so it is easy for someone to put the wrong oil in the machine sometime in its life which is about 6,700 hours. Old but not dead, certainly not the little Perkins Parma engine and the Rexroth should have lasted for up to 10,000 hours but may have been damaged a long time ago by contamination. The pump or motor may be just worn out, most likely.
4. Oil wears out as well and I have no idea how old this oil is or what the viscosity is, probably less than half of what it should be.
5. Reverse being worse than forward indicates more wear or some damage on that side of the kidney plate, OK for suck but not so much for blow.
I am going to find some ISO 100 or better hydraulic oil and give it a go.
Thanks for the inspiration to try what I have been thinking about for so long. I'll let you know how it turns out if you are still around.
My little Komatsu excavator requires 30 wt engine oil for the hydraulics but they are just gear pumps.
My Dozer wants AW46 and it is Sundstrand hydrostatic. I can get that at the ag supply store.
ISO 100 is a little hard to come by in hydraulic oil so instead of just engine oil I'll go to the jobber and see if I can get 15 gallons of the stuff. anxious to try this since I use the machine with my brush cutter and need to trim fences this winter.
sequoyah101
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Old thread, you may not still be around. I have a related problem.
Little Schaeff loader with RexRoth pump and motor. The hotter it gets the slower it gets. I think someone put the wrong oil in it and it is also getting a little old at 7,000 hours. I don't use it hard often and so have just lived with the problems nursing it along when I need to.
Interesting thing is that it usually runs pretty well in forward but becomes a pig in reverse long before it gets hot and has forward problems. I changed the relief valves, they were washed out. Could it be that the swash plate in reverse is out of adjustment? Can't see why the barrel would leak more in one direction than the other on either the pump or the motor.
The multi vis oil is probably the best solution short of rebuild. I use it sometimes with a forestry shear and a little grapple and sometimes with a Pathslayer small side mower to tend fence lines usually in the winter on the coldest days so it runs better then.
Little Schaeff loader with RexRoth pump and motor. The hotter it gets the slower it gets. I think someone put the wrong oil in it and it is also getting a little old at 7,000 hours. I don't use it hard often and so have just lived with the problems nursing it along when I need to.
Interesting thing is that it usually runs pretty well in forward but becomes a pig in reverse long before it gets hot and has forward problems. I changed the relief valves, they were washed out. Could it be that the swash plate in reverse is out of adjustment? Can't see why the barrel would leak more in one direction than the other on either the pump or the motor.
The multi vis oil is probably the best solution short of rebuild. I use it sometimes with a forestry shear and a little grapple and sometimes with a Pathslayer small side mower to tend fence lines usually in the winter on the coldest days so it runs better then.
Williy
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I remember back in the 50's we used to call the chevy's possa
slip their auto trannys we used 50W then the guys would dump
them for something else. With the 50W iit felt like a new tranny
willy
slip their auto trannys we used 50W then the guys would dump
them for something else. With the 50W iit felt like a new tranny
willy