I have a Massey Ferguson 1533 year 2006 It's is overheating to a the max and past I replaced the Thermostat flush the sytem with water What else

[mgfrank]

I have a Massey Ferguson 1533 year 2006 It's is overheating to a the max and past I replaced the Thermostat flush the system with water. Still over heats less than 15 minutes what else could it be ? Oil is fine no sign of water in the oil no leaks. any Idea's what I should do ? Thanks Frank

Upon further inspection the culprit was the overflow outlet pipe by the radiator cap had a hole when hot coolant would leak out and run low since i was in the field I did not see any wet spots looks like the only fix is a new radiator the pipe is plastic $800 plus for a new radiator AUGHGGGGGGGG. Its suppose to be a closed pressurized system.
Thanks for all the responses

 

[bearthebruce]

blow the radiator out to clear the chaff and debris?

That was not in your list of things you have done..

Is the fan operating properly?

We have a 2005 1533... She runs like a top - 450+ hours..

Only overheating has been when the screen was packed with garbage or the fins in the radiator were.. we are constantly cleaning both during mowing season.

 

[Randy Gann]

I would pull out the thermostat and try running it without one. If it runs ok and does not overheat then the thermostat is not opening.

 

[lpakiz]

First, grab the fan blade by hand (engine of, of course) and see if you can make the fan turn without turning the engine. If you can turn the fan, tighten or replace the belt. This is the first, and easiest and cheapest test you can do.
If the belt is driving the fan, you will hear a distinct roar or buzzing from the fan at WOT.
Next, slip a trouble light (or any light bulb) in beside the fan blades. Do this inside, or on an overcast day. Then look in from the front of the tractor. You should be able to CLEARLY see the light, as well as the rows of tubes and fins. If you can't, you need to either blow out the core or hit it CAREFULLY with a pressure washer, until you can clearly see light all the way thru the core.
OK, NOW you can move on to thermostats, head gaskets, cracked head, head gasket, water pump, etc.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I would pull out the thermostat and try running it without one. If it runs ok and does not overheat then the thermostat is not opening.

Thermostat could be in backwards.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Biggest spring on thermostat goes toward engine. I say that because some brands have two. If it wasn't overheating before and all you did was change the thermostat........

 

[ovrszd]

Crank engine with radiator cap off. When engine temp climbs to operating range the thermostat will open. This will cause movement of coolant in radiator. When engine temp climbs above normal the thermostat will be completely open. The movement of coolant will increase. If you've never watched the coolant circulate you don't have to look closely for "slight" movement. It will be obvious the water pump is working. If you don't see movement, the water pump isn't working.

Check that and report back.

 

[bearthebruce]

@ovrszd, that's a great point! water pump.. check the flow - tests thermostat and water pump all at once. (I remember doing that back when I was younger on my '58 Ford.. )

Fits with his 15 minute run time too!

I appreciate the knowledge on this forum.. I hope the OP soon reports his findings.

 

[rScotty]

First of all, start with the basics. How do you know it is overheating? Are you getting steam and a jet of boiling water when the radiator cap energency overpressure vent opens? You won't miss that happening! It makes a lot of noise and steam!
Or is it just reading too hot on a gauge or indicator light?
Have you measured the temperature?

When cleaning a radiator fins I never use a pressure washer. Fins are too fragile. Use a paint brush, dish soap and and garden hose with a mild spray. Clean from the fan side forward.

It's probably the thermostat. I've seen lots of bad thermostats, but can't recall ever seeing a water pump where the fan turned but it didn't pump.

You might want to check the antifreeze. Most older tractors use a glycol based antifreeze, and using 100% glycol in any system will give problems if the system isn't working well. Pure glycol doesn't transfer heat all that well. You want a 50/50 mix of glycol and water.

Auto parts stores sell jusgs of either pure 100% ethylene glycol or a 50/50 mix of glycol antifreeze and water. I've seen them mixed on the same shelf. So check the label; they expect the buyer to know the difference. The best solution for heat transfer is 50/50 antifreeze and water.

If none of this works - and then chances are you have an old hose that has collapsed or a radiator with plugged tubes.
rScotty

 

[mgfrank]

blow the radiator out to clear the chaff and debris?

That was not in your list of things you have done..

Is the fan operating properly?

We have a 2005 1533... She runs like a top - 450+ hours..

Only overheating has been when the screen was packed with garbage or the fins in the radiator were.. we are constantly cleaning both during mowing season.

blow the radiator out to clear the chaff and debris?

That was not in your list of things you have done..

Is the fan operating properly?

We have a 2005 1533... She runs like a top - 450+ hours..

Only overheating has been when the screen was packed with garbage or the fins in the radiator were.. we are constantly cleaning both during mowing season.

Upon further inspection the culprit was the overflow outlet pipe by the radiator cap had a hole when hot coolant would leak out and run low since i was in the field I did not see any wet spots looks like the only fix is a new radiator the pipe is plastic $800 plus for a new radiator AUGHGGGGGGGG. Its suppose to be a closed pressurized system.
Thanks for all the responses