I have found the perfect tractor

[Cocre]

TheGoose, I wish you well with your new tractor. I own a 2006 JD 3320 e-Hydro, bought it used 12 months ago with a 300x FEL (heavy duty bucket) and a 447 backhoe for around $21,000. It had 185 easy hours on it when I got it and sits today at 394. It has not been the perfect tractor; I do not believe they make one of those, but it is close enough to perfect for me. The only thing I would change about it is the tires, it has R4s and I wish it had R1s. Although after working a day in wet muck I must say that the old 8N with the AG tires would have gotten stuck where as the 3320 just kind of floats on top. So maybe not even that.

When I purchased the JD I had no preference for color. It came down to what I could get for $21,000. I now lean green, although I know that orange and other colors can also make great tractors. So buy the best you can for what money you have to spend. That is what I did, and I think it worked well for me.

 

[TheGoose]

I'm having a tough time deciding between R1's and R4's. The R1's are skinnier but have more traction. The R4's are wider and tear your grass up less. I will mostly be working in the pasture but I wonder if I really need the R1's with 4WD. The few times I will be working in the yard I'm afraid the R1's will really rut and tear the turf up.

21K for a 3320 with B.H. sounds like a really good price. The used 3320's here are not even competitve with that price.

TheGoose, I wish you well with your new tractor. I own a 2006 JD 3320 e-Hydro, bought it used 12 months ago with a 300x FEL (heavy duty bucket) and a 447 backhoe for around $21,000. It had 185 easy hours on it when I got it and sits today at 394. It has not been the perfect tractor; I do not believe they make one of those, but it is close enough to perfect for me. The only thing I would change about it is the tires, it has R4s and I wish it had R1s. Although after working a day in wet muck I must say that the old 8N with the AG tires would have gotten stuck where as the 3320 just kind of floats on top. So maybe not even that.

When I purchased the JD I had no preference for color. It came down to what I could get for $21,000. I now lean green, although I know that orange and other colors can also make great tractors. So buy the best you can for what money you have to spend. That is what I did, and I think it worked well for me.

 

[TheGoose]

1st off I seem to have touched a nerve here with the Deere crowd. I am not trying to inflame anybody, I am looking for real answers.

2nd.....the 3032e/3038e series tractor is a nice tractor. It is a lot of tractor for the money. However, when I test drove one I could tell there is a big difference between the 3038e/3032e series and the 3x20 series. The 3x20 series tractor is much more tractor. Feels more solid, engine is much quieter, and hydro is much more smoother. I did not like the "whine" the 3032 gave when using the hydro. I did not like the fact that there is no temp gauge. Also, the draw-bar is not included (but only a ~$100 option). There is no split brake. The hydraulics are not very strong (~5 gpm ). I did like the FEL however. The FEL for the 3032 felt smoother than the 3520 I test drove. The 3032e is about 500 lbs lighter. One thing I want to do in the future is add a back-hoe. The 303xe series does not offer a back-hoe at this time (OEM). I feel like the 303xe series will not suit my needs in the long term because it is not as solid of a tractor.

The Kubota L3400 falls somewhere between the 303x e series Deere and the 3x20 series. It weighs a little less, but has more HP (35 HP, 28.5 PTO). The hydraulics are not as strong as the 3x20, but stronger than the 3032e. It costs more than the 3032/3038, but cheaper than the 3x20 series. For 2-4K less, I can live with mechanical hydro. I can get a couple more implements for the same money.

Also needed to mention here that the prices I am getting are for Tractor/Loaders. I just made a call to a dealer that is a little bit further away (~100 miles) but he was 2K cheaper for the 3520. His price was ~23K for the tractor/loader 3520 with R4's. The L3400 series is 18.5K for Tractor/Loader with R4's. $4500 difference for a little bit better hydraulics, e-hydro vs. mechanical hydro. 3520 has 37 HP, but has a turbo. L3400 has 35 HP, but no turbo ( I would prefer no turbo). The 3320 is a good tractor, but only has 25 PTO HP.

I'm not sure about the comments about "just a tractor". My needs are hydrostatic drive, ~30 PTO HP, relatively light weight (but not too light!), 4wd, and strong hydraulics. I am looking at Deere, Mahindra, New Holland, and Kubota. I want something that I can get parts for in 20 years. There are no Bobcar dealers within an hours drive from here. I don't know anything about their tractors. I do know several people with Kubota's, Mahindra's and Deere's. Not looking for name brand, looking for value, quality, and longevity. I am not looking to buy a grey market tractor or something that will not hold up over time.

I am not sold yet on the L3400. If I can get Deere to get close to the Kubota, I may change my mind, but the chances are not looking good. I need the deere to be about 20K drive out, and I can't see that happening. The Deere salesman told me that I had to take all factors in and decide for myself. AKA-we ain't coming down!!

Thats false...but another story for another day (plenty of other posts deal with that issue)...... eHydro = no "mechanical" link between the direction pedals and the hydro unit....which IMO is FAR superior.

if you "just need a tractor" then the 3x20 is not what you're looking for..look into the 3038e, I've seen ads for the 3038 with loader and iMatch for less then 20k....Heck I dunno if Kubota or Deere fit into the "I just need a tractor" category...Alot of "2nd tier" brands which you can get into for alot less which will have 4 tires, hydro tranny and a 30hp diesel engine... Heck 2 months ago you coulda gotten a CT230 delivered to your door for 13k

DanD78 is correct though, 90% sure you can get a 3320, 300x, R1's (you can proably get the Normal R4's with some dickering) out the door for 20k without breaking too much of a sweat....

 

[jenkinsph]

It appears that you have a "good, better, best" scenario going on here. I would have to say that chances are very good you will find that if you go with the lesser tractors you will be one of the many people looking to upgrade in the future. Long term you can save some money buying the right tractor and the right implements the first time.

If you have alot of work to do then take a hard look at it before you jump into this. Most people with any amount of real work who buy the smaller tractors wan't to upgrade to at least a 50 hp tractor, changing out tractors and implements is costly.

Good luck with your decisions


Steve

 

[pilot-werx]

Here are the two reasons I only own Deere products and not Kubota.

First... The Deere's have always had superior ergonomics. Call me lazy, but when I am going to be on the tractor for 6 hours I want to be comfortable.

Second... Both dealers are close in distance.... But Deere wins hands down with part availability. Lets be real, all tractors are going to break. There has never been a time when I could not get the part the next day. I know the same cannot be said for the Kubota. With me, time is money.

 

[TheGoose]

I understand what you are saying. I have heard that about Deere, and I think that it's a valid point. However, this tractor will be mostly for farm use, and if I need a part, I can wait a few days. I already have a Ford 1910 tractor for mowing etc. Now I need a little bit bigger tractor for dirt work etc. For a $4K differential, I can live with that. I don't know about ergonomics, but I don't think it will be a big deal. I will be testing the kubota this week, so I may change my mind after using it.

As far as the size of the tractor, I need a light-weight tractor. I have some places that you can only tread lightly on, and some tight spaces I need to be able to get into/out of. I will always need a mid-size tractor. If I need to upgrade in the future, I will probably buy an outright bigger tractor. I also need to be able to tow it with my 1/2ton truck. A 45-50 HP is just too big for what I want to do right now. Funny thing is that I could get the 40+ HP tractor for not much more money. They really stick it to the middle priced tractors.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

About all I can say is this...regardless of color/size/features. Buy the one from the best dealer...even if its a few bucks more in the beginning, it usually comes out in the wash down the road.

That being said...Sounds like you'd rather have the 3x20....dont spend the next 10 years saying "woulda/coulda/shoulda just spent the 4500 bucks" to get it off the bat..

As far as parts availablilty, you say that you can wait now...which I'm not saying you cant...but when you got 20k worth of machine down for 2 weeks because of something stupid you wont be so willing to wait... It happened to a friend of mine with Orange...4 weeks of downtime to be exact... I keep reminding him I can have everything from a front emblem to an axle assembly shipped to my front door next day....

Pilot-werx has a point with the ergonomics...I'll also add JD has "Style & Class" I'd classify the interior of my 3520 Cab on Par with a current model year Mid/High end vehicle in the styling, comfort, quality/fit & finish, etc.. I'd call it a BMW Quality interior.... The Kubota Cab looks & feels like its from 1989...

 

[Beavis]

Ok, so educate me. What is the difference between e-hydro and mechanical hydro. Say what you want, but I believe in the KISS method. Yes, the JD has better hydraulics according to the spec sheets, but there is not a $4K price difference. If I cannot get a 3x20 in my price range (~20K) it will be a no brainer to go with the Kubota. I don't care about all the fancy stuff, I just need a tractor.

I bought my new 3320 (e-hydro) with a new 6ft. rotary mower for 20k. Three years, 0% I looked at orange also, but the deere was just a smoother, more finished looking product.

 

[OrangeJbird]

"I have found the perfect tractor " But you need a good Dealer too.
When I was comparing the same models as you, I found the 3320 to feel stronger PTO-wise. I just seemed to work less in heavy cutting (5' landpride brush mower) than the 3400. Both had loaders and the Deere's was easier to use. I think you actually have to use each for a day or 2 doing what you will use it for.
I had visions of hitting the hydro pedal the wrong way or the hydro instead of the brakes on the Kubota. The deere has the brakes on the left and I rarely (need to) use them but I don't have to worry about hitting the wrong pedal.
Bigger fuel tank makes a big difference. I was able to put 8-10 hours on each machine and felt much better on the 3320 and safer. Just my experience.
Oh, the 3320 cruise holds speed much better too.
I don't go by published horsepower ratings. I need seat of the pants reasearch.

The Dealers had matching prices.

 

[whitedogone]

The fella down the road has/had a L34000. He had it in the shop for some work this spring. It had some hyd problem as I recall. They had to order parts that took like 2 weeks to get it back. While he was without it, he happened to stop by the local deere dealer because they had a used 3320 on there row. He got shooting the crap with the sales guy and he told him to just drive in home and use it till he got his K back. As his wife was with him in the truck he ended up driving it home ( about 5 miles). The deere never went back to the dealer. The Kubota sat out in front of his place with a sign on it after he got it back. He used to really like that kubota, but he says he doesn't miss it one bit.