I Just Destroyed My Optima Yellow Top...

[Gale Hawkins]

I agree with Mike and I'll bet the battery is fine, you have other problems. CJ

2x because that is one feature of the AGM batteries.

Per Optima:
Rapid Recharge:
Maximum voltage 15.6 volts (regulated), no current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). Charge until current drops below 1 amp.

 

[CJONE]

Let's put this in a nut shell. A battery charge rate varies by size state of charge and temp. The key is to give the battery any charge rate it will accept until it starts converting the charge to heat then it is too much. An alternator will not overcharge a battery if it has a functioning regulator. It will supply whatever amps the battery will take but it will not exceed a set voltage so it will not cook [overheat] the battery. A smart battery charger also does this and more but the standard ones will take a 12 volt battery way past 16 volts if left unattended. Not good for the battery. The amps of a alternator has nothing to do with battery life as long as it exceeds the vehicles need so there is amps left for charging the battery and it has sufficient[sp] time to recharge the battery. The worst thing you can do with a starting battery or any battery for that matter is fully discharge it. Like leaving your headlights on or domelight, radio without the vehicle running ect, even a deep cycle will not take a complete discharge too many times. Leave a discharged battery that way and it will sulfide the plates off and you have a junk battery, let alone a frozen one if it is cold out. CJ

 

[CJONE]

2x because that is one feature of the AGM batteries.

Per Optima:
Rapid Recharge:
Maximum voltage 15.6 volts (regulated), no current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). Charge until current drops below 1 amp.

Thanks Gale, that is the key for charging TEMP and voltage. 15 volts is good because it "floats" or equalizes the cells of a lead acid battery but any more it starts cooking the battery. CJ

 

[HHR]

I think the short occurred when I was "boosting" the battery. The charger makes a buzzing sound when switched to boost. When I turned the ignition to "crank", the charger stopped buzzing and the link started to fry.

I had talked to an Optima battery tech and they said that I had "fried" my battery by boosting it with 50 amps.
The optima has 10.89 volts and I haven't tried charging it since the I pulled it from the car.

 

[mjw357]

The optima has 10.89 volts and I haven't tried charging it since the I pulled it from the car.

That tells me the battery has a dead or shorted cell.

 

[mikehaugen]

I have to ask why you would have a deep cycle battery in a car anyway. It is my understanding (and maybe I'm wrong) that deep cycles are made for excessively depleating/ fully charging type cycles, and not the frequent charge/discharge "short" cycles seen in a car. To me, deep cycles are for boats with trolling motors or maybe certain trailer applications.

 

[HHR]

I have to ask why you would have a deep cycle battery in a car anyway. It is my understanding (and maybe I'm wrong) that deep cycles are made for excessively depleating/ fully charging type cycles, and not the frequent charge/discharge "short" cycles seen in a car. To me, deep cycles are for boats with trolling motors or maybe certain trailer applications.

It is a combination deep cycle and starter battery.

 

[mikehaugen]

It is a combination deep cycle and starter battery.

I take that as it is a deep cycle that will handle a high-amp load, does that necessarily mean that it is also designed for the constant slight-discharge/ recharge cycles seen in a car? I am not trying to be argumentative, just wondering. Is this truly a do-all battery? If so, how well do they normally last?

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I take that as it is a deep cycle that will handle a high-amp load, does that necessarily mean that it is also designed for the constant slight-discharge/ recharge cycles seen in a car? I am not trying to be argumentative, just wondering. Is this truly a do-all battery? If so, how well do they normally last?

Mike deep cycle batteries are fine for starting batteries IF they meet the OEM cranking amp rate. One down side to Optima batteries in general is their very low cranking amps for size/cost.

 

[CJONE]

I think the short occurred when I was "boosting" the battery. The charger makes a buzzing sound when switched to boost. When I turned the ignition to "crank", the charger stopped buzzing and the link started to fry.

I had talked to an Optima battery tech and they said that I had "fried" my battery by boosting it with 50 amps.
The optima has 10.89 volts and I haven't tried charging it since the I pulled it from the car.

Put it on a trickle charger [1 amp] for a few hours and see if it comes back. If something in the car grounded it would drain a partially charged battery. If the battery is fried it will either not take a charge or draw high amps with the charger set at 1-2 amps, that would indicate shorted cells. But I doubt that, you would have basicially 0 voltage with a shorted battery. CJ