I wanna make a Homemade Log Splitter
- Thread starter TWEETER
- Start date
tawilson
Platinum Member
I bought an old homemade splitter last year. The wedge is welded to the I-beam. I see a lot of splitters with the wedge on the ram. I think it would be handier that way but have never used one set up like that. Does anybody that has used both have any input. I will be looking for a new splitter in the spring and would appreciate some input.
Deerlope
Veteran Member
By having the wedge on the ram is helpful if you are splitting big blocks( 2' dia or larger) cause that way the block is not pushed off the beam. So you don't have to pick it up again and put it back on. Thats how the last 2 that I built were made and any in the furture will be made by me.
tulenutn2o
Platinum Member
I like the wedge welded to the beam so wood just falls off the end myself.
Oliver1655
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2010
- Messages
- 251
- Tractor
- Oliver 1655
I you do a search on log splitters or wood splitters on this forum you will find lots of postings/photos. There are advocates for all styles of splitters. Here is my preference:
- Horizontal with the wedge welded to the beam to keep the split wood from falling in my way. I have tables on both sides of the wedge and beyond it to keep the wood off the ground. I can either allow the split pieces to be pushed off the end creating a windrow of fire wood or I can pick up the wood from the tables to load onto a trailer, truck or put in to a wood shed. My thought is to only pick it off the ground one time. The height of the beam should allow you to stand up straight while working.
- I added a hydraulic long lift for the large heavy pieces. I looked at using a davit/winch but did not want to drag the wood on the ground. The lift also allows me to raise it half way and fill it up with wood to split then start the engine. This has cut down my fuel consumption in half. I use a two wheel dolly to move the big pieces to the lift.
- I have a 2 stage Haldex 16 gal/min pump, 11 hp Greyhound engine which I run at a fast idle and use a 4" x 24" cylinder. I am only setup to work at 2500 psi max. I did not want to spend another $100 to have a cylinder with a 3000 psi capacity. Make sure the valve(s) and hoses you chose have the capacity to handle the gpm and psi you intend to operate. While my splitter on paper is roughly a 16 ton splitter, after I sharpened the wedge, have not had a problem with it splitting or slicing anything I have tried. (I haven't tried anything larger than 3 ft in dia.)
- Simple guideline for matching engine to 2 stage pump is:
- 11 gpm to 5 hp
- 13 gpm to 6 hp
- 16 gpm to 8 hp
- 22 gpm to 13 hp
These are the common sizes of pumps used. Your oil resivior should hold as many gal as the gpm rating on the pump.
- I also added an oil cooler with a box fan. I can split wood in 90 degree temperatures and still rest my hand on the hydraulic hoses.
- There are arguments that if you have to buy all the parts you can not build any cheaper than you can buy a splitter. I invested a little over $1000 to build mine and could not have purchased what I ended up with for 2 - 3 times that.
- Horizontal with the wedge welded to the beam to keep the split wood from falling in my way. I have tables on both sides of the wedge and beyond it to keep the wood off the ground. I can either allow the split pieces to be pushed off the end creating a windrow of fire wood or I can pick up the wood from the tables to load onto a trailer, truck or put in to a wood shed. My thought is to only pick it off the ground one time. The height of the beam should allow you to stand up straight while working.
- I added a hydraulic long lift for the large heavy pieces. I looked at using a davit/winch but did not want to drag the wood on the ground. The lift also allows me to raise it half way and fill it up with wood to split then start the engine. This has cut down my fuel consumption in half. I use a two wheel dolly to move the big pieces to the lift.
- I have a 2 stage Haldex 16 gal/min pump, 11 hp Greyhound engine which I run at a fast idle and use a 4" x 24" cylinder. I am only setup to work at 2500 psi max. I did not want to spend another $100 to have a cylinder with a 3000 psi capacity. Make sure the valve(s) and hoses you chose have the capacity to handle the gpm and psi you intend to operate. While my splitter on paper is roughly a 16 ton splitter, after I sharpened the wedge, have not had a problem with it splitting or slicing anything I have tried. (I haven't tried anything larger than 3 ft in dia.)
- Simple guideline for matching engine to 2 stage pump is:
- 11 gpm to 5 hp
- 13 gpm to 6 hp
- 16 gpm to 8 hp
- 22 gpm to 13 hp
These are the common sizes of pumps used. Your oil resivior should hold as many gal as the gpm rating on the pump.
- I also added an oil cooler with a box fan. I can split wood in 90 degree temperatures and still rest my hand on the hydraulic hoses.
- There are arguments that if you have to buy all the parts you can not build any cheaper than you can buy a splitter. I invested a little over $1000 to build mine and could not have purchased what I ended up with for 2 - 3 times that.
Oliver1655
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2010
- Messages
- 251
- Tractor
- Oliver 1655
crazyal
Super Member
Not to be a spoilsport but this is a 6 year old thread posted by someone who only made one post. I like your set up Oliver. I have a MTD splitter where the wedge moves. They make it this way so it can be used in a both horizontal and verticle positions, something I thought I would need. However I find that I would rather roll the logs into my FEL and then position it so all I have to do is roll them onto the splitter. I haven't used the splitter in the verticle position in years now.
Ok, so. It is not as if the thread does not provide useful information. :thumbsup: