IH 46 square baler knotter problems.

[GREENBOY]

Thanks Dan, i did have a rock around on this arm and it wasnt all that bad.. I am just hesitant that he would rather not get it all dirty with hay!
I think I will go with your idea and insist on a demo...
Will see what happens.

 

[5030]

When I buy hay implements (used) I always look at the implement and if it's clean and nice, I don't buy it.

I never power wash any of my implements, just blow them off with compressed air and grease 'em.

Haying isn't tillage. Hay tools don't engage the ground so they don't need washed.

I don't believe I've ever washed anything other than the tractors.

I just bought a used NH 575 high capacity, extra sweep square bailer from a dealer and I looked carefully to see if it had any chaff under the covers and if the chains were rusty or not. It had chaff and the chains had no rust.

I bought it.

The biggest pile of potential junk (and problems) is a nice and shiny clean used hay tool.

Almost any small square bailer will tie, i so long as it's in time and the knotters are in reasonable condition....t's consistent tying, bale after bale that's important

 

[hayfork47]

Hay "restrictors" are metal ramps on the bottom and sides of the bale case located at the end of the plunger stroke. There is a dropoff at the end of the ramp so that as a flake is formed, the hay is pushed up the ramp and the flake stays put because of the dropoff. If the drop off section is filled up with dirt, chaff, mud, rust or is broken off, the flake will relax and the length measuring wheel will get a mis-que. The cutoff knives I'm referring to are on the plunger and bale case throat (where the hay goes into the plunger area. If the knives are dull, it chops the hay instead of cuts it. This makes a thicker section in the flake and the bale is longer on the cut side as a result. When the knifes are cutting properly, they actually squirt the hay a bit further towards the end side and the bale is more uniform. I presume you've got a good feeder and the hay is entering the bale case uniformly.

How do you time a 46 haybaler. My needles are coming up too late and therefore they get back home too late and it shears the flywheel pin.

 

[385]

Have a 46 miss ties every 10 bales sometimes less and sometimes more. The right side is the only side not tying. Any advice

 

[wee dod]

Have a 46 miss ties every 10 bales sometimes less and sometimes more. The right side is the only side not tying. Any advice

Hi i am looking at a internatiomal 440 square baler, it does need a knotter, does anyone know where i can purchase one.

cheers

 

[GREENBOY]

When I buy hay implements (used) I always look at the implement and if it's clean and nice, I don't buy it.

I never power wash any of my implements, just blow them off with compressed air and grease 'em.

Haying isn't tillage. Hay tools don't engage the ground so they don't need washed.

I don't believe I've ever washed anything other than the tractors.

I just bought a used NH 575 high capacity, extra sweep square bailer from a dealer and I looked carefully to see if it had any chaff under the covers and if the chains were rusty or not. It had chaff and the chains had no rust.

I bought it.

The biggest pile of potential junk (and problems) is a nice and shiny clean used hay tool.

Almost any small square bailer will tie, i so long as it's in time and the knotters are in reasonable condition....t's consistent tying, bale after bale that's important

Well after being tempted by the spanking clean polished and painted baler - I said no and waited for another to come along. and one did -IH B47 I went over and saw it bale 10 or 12 bales 2 of them miss tied and we put it down to blunt blades on the knotters. All the chaff was in various crevices and I had to go for it, got 2 knotters knives/blades thrown in.

So that was august 2012 we are now june 2013 and I have had my first hay bailing encounter. Not having time to completely lubricate it and test all that is, I fired it up and made my way into the field. First 3 bales came out with string hanging and loose and hay in a pile, then it tied 3 nice ones although the knots are not as they should be - a bit straggly and un-evenly cut. After 7 good but a bit banana like bales and the odd bundle of untied hay, as i was coming into a row with the baler turning over and no hay feeding in the Shear bolt on the fly wheel broke.

I have yet to work out what the problem was/is but I have an operators manual and will work my way through it.

Just wondered one thing - people talk of timing the baler, so that needles dont go into the chamber when the plunger comes along and the fingers that feed in the hay dont either.

I cant see in the operators manual anywhere that shows you how to time the baler? am i missing some pages or do these B47's not need to be timed, would be good to know incase there is a slight timing issue, before I replace the shear bolt and find out later.

Many thanks

 

[wakadue]

inside knotter is doing its job, but the outside will have 2 stinges on bale, and loose I put in a new knife but did not help inside is tight outside is loose..

 

[GREENBOY]

I have the same problem, on a B47 baler. Looking form the back towards the tractor the right hand knotter does not cut the twine fully, leaving 80% of the twine uncut, this then gets stripped off the bill hook and breaks the rest of the uncut twine, at best you get a very tight (but not a loop) knot with a long straggly tail at worst it pull the twine through the formed knot and you have an loose un-tied side. I have moved the knife to cut sooner/closer to the twine by adding washers but i think the problem might be that the twine being cut is not held tight enough by the twine disc so any knife pressure simply pushed the twine out of the holder.

Could it be the twine disc holders are loose? is it easy to tighten - or do i need to dismantle and remove a shim?

Could a thinner twine help to hold it firmer?

What about re-timing the disc? i read about putting a drill bit in the hole in the knotter frame and then lining it up with the hole in the disc, but i annot see the hole in the knotter frame, also i read about loosening the pinion and wrapping it with a hammer to break the tappered seal and then this will enable you to re-time the discs, i tried this but I didnt want to hit it too hard, could there be a small cotter pin in there somewhere that needs removing first..?

I am a bit miffed if someone can shed some light.

 

[wakadue]

inside knotter is doing its job, but the outside will have 2 stinges on bale, and loose I put in a new knife but did not help inside is tight outside is loose..

actually I found my problem, the inside twine holder has a side shoe (looks like) spring steele held on by the knife bolts, any how there was clearance on the inside and 0 on outside so I bent the out side away so it did not touch the twine holder went out and bailed 10 12 bales without a miss tie working good now. without a book it is a little tougher I will have to get me one

 

[gthorule1971]

i have the same problem(inside perfect every time, outside very hit and miss) thanks for the ideas ill go check some of these things today.ive tried moving knives in,out,and round about but it just wont cut the twine completely on that side.the blades are sharp enough to shave with so ill check some of these things out