I'm done dealing with the Flat Toothbar

[wdchyd]

Izicc,

I'd just clean it up, preheat a little and stick weld it back on with 7018....

You may have to reinforce the others as well......looks like they just wire feeded with the wrong heat or wrong wire.....

Some mass production shops just butter the stuff on too quick....

 

[hydro2]

I have a 72 John Deere tooth bar that I purchased with my JD skidloader. I never had an issue with it in the skidloader and now have it on my tractor. It is a bolt on toothbar. I have never have had an once of trouble.

 

[hydro2]

I meant 72" I can't edit my post from my phone.

 

[Turbys_1700]

I would say that the inherent design of a flat tooth bar will render the teeth not as strong as a tooth bar where the tooth utilizes the under lip of the bucket for added support. I would think that in most cases the weld holding the tooth would be sufficient to hold the tooth unless used in extreme conditions or utilizing a loader with very strong hydraulics.

I am going to buy a tooth bar for my loader at the end of the month and had my mind set on a flat one but this post has certainly given me thought at to the design and possible issues of the flat tooth bar under extreme use.

 

[retiredmgn]

So is there a general concenses as to which tooth bar is best? I need to get one. Gots some diggin' to do.

 

[Zork]

I'd say there was not enough penetration, and the weld, or welds are bad.

 

[k0ua]

I'd say there was not enough penetration, and the weld, or welds are bad.

Thats for sure on the photo I saw of the first one, thats why I wanted to see a close up of the second one where it broke off. If there is a crater in the flat portion the bar, it just tore the weld nugget out, but the photo of the first one showed a nice flat area of the bar, where there was almost zero penetration into the parent metal of the weld nugget. It was obviously MIG welded and looked pretty but no penetration. If you would clean it up and stick weld it back on, I bet that would be the last of the problem.

James K0UA

 

[sixdogs]

I'd say there was not enough penetration, and the weld, or welds are bad.

Looks like no weld penetration. Company should or will be aware of this 'cuz all this guy's work at these temps is coming back.
I would break off or clean old welds and weld all teeth from scratch. If missing any teeth call the company and send the photos.

 

[lzicc]

I'll get some pictures of the second one and post them. The second one that broke if I remember correctly does have more of a crater in the cutting edge. Not allot more, but more.

Thats for sure on the photo I saw of the first one, thats why I wanted to see a close up of the second one where it broke off. If there is a crater in the flat portion the bar, it just tore the weld nugget out, but the photo of the first one showed a nice flat area of the bar, where there was almost zero penetration into the parent metal of the weld nugget. It was obviously MIG welded and looked pretty but no penetration. If you would clean it up and stick weld it back on, I bet that would be the last of the problem.

James K0UA

 

[lzicc]

My thoughts are the non flat tooth bar for a few reasons. IMO, the non flat tooth bar has a better design for strength of the teeth. I don't think is no question there. If you are digging and lose a tooth, good luck trying to find it. I do like the idea of being able to back drag with the flat toothbar, but it's not that big of a deal to me.

If you are not going to abuse the toothbar too much, I think the flat toothbar would work well. I'm digging shell, roots, etc and I think it is too much abuse for the flat toothbar. I never had any issue's with my non flat toothbar at all. Then again I was using it on a BX and not an L.

The abuse that I put the flat toothbar through wasn't as much as I put my BH through and never had a problem with the BH teeth.

So is there a general concenses as to which tooth bar is best? I need to get one. Gots some diggin' to do.