iMatch with Frontier Box Blade

[Noodlez914]

Thanks for the advice on getting those bolts off. But as far as the receiver. I realize i need to get the bushings kit. Thats not my concern. Seems as though the hook is too low for it. Hook bangs right into the square tubing when bottom pins are already sitting on the imatch bottom pin grabs. Looks like and form of quick hitch wasn't in mind by the person who made this. Bought it from ebay.

 

[RoyJackson]

I realize i need to get the bushings kit. Thats not my concern. Seems as though the hook is too low for it. Hook bangs right into the square tubing when bottom pins are already sitting on the imatch bottom pin grabs. Looks like and form of quick hitch wasn't in mind by the person who made this. Bought it from ebay.

I bought mine off eBay too...can't recall the seller/manufacturer unfortunately. I will say my receiver was built to the correct specs for use with a QH. If the receiver cost less then $100, probably easiest to replace it. But that depends on your fabrication skills.

 

[Noodlez914]

For removing the bolts, a 6-point socket and impact wrench (which was probably used to tighten the nuts) would be best...if you have an impact wrench. If not, you need more leverage...so find a cheater bar about 3-4 feet long that will fit over your wrench (BTW, I strongly suggest you use a breaker bar to do the initial loosening). Once you have the mechanical advantage of the cheater bar, the nuts should break loose fairly easy.
Note I wrote 6 point socket! A 12 point socket slips too easily.

As far as your receiver hitch...you'll need the bushing kit, but that should work fine...mine does (it's on the Deere non-adjustable QH now, in fact) and my receiver isnt even a Deere brand.

Wouldn't mind investing in a impact wrench. My garage compressor max is 150 psi. Is that decent enough to run an impact wrench capable of getting these tractor attachment bolts on and off or would the impact wrench be way under powered?

 

[bcp]

Raise that hook two holes and it will work. Replace the hook bolts with pins to change it easier.

View attachment 273585

Bruce

 

[RoyJackson]

Wouldn't mind investing in a impact wrench. My garage compressor max is 150 psi. Is that decent enough to run an impact wrench capable of getting these tractor attachment bolts on and off or would the impact wrench be way under powered?

It will depend on the CFM output too. Air Tools, such as an impact wrench, need more volume then most smaller air compressors put out even if they produce enough pressure.

 

[BlacknTan]

Photo attached. Also attached is a photo of my now useless 3 point receiver hitch that I ordered before I owned imatch. If you look at the pic, see the hook don't stand a chance of working with it unless I have some chopping tools and a welder. View attachment 273577View attachment 273578

The implement shown is not useless with the I-Match (very nice, BTW) at all, but a slight modification is in order... If you have access to a milling machine, mill a 2 inch (minimum) wide slot in the upright box tubing below where the hook needs to go (just on the back side so the hook can slide in.). If no machine tools available, drill two holes side by side along what will be the bottom edge of the slot, and do your styraight cuts with a cutoff wheel. I'd do my best to leave the radius and a small land on the corners of the box tubing. A couple of hours work, and you have a useful implement again You can weld a thin piece of rectangular bar stock on top of the uprights to retain rigidity there...

BTW, don't be disheartened... I don't know if I've bought anything yet for the tractor, and this includes factory HD parts, that did not need some tweaking to fit. My HD top link bracket, from Kubota, needed three trips to a fully equipped shop before it fit properly. Fly cutting some of the flat surfaces, elongation holes just enough, adding shims here and there to get multiple bolting surfaces to match up just right .. you get the idea. If it was easy, anyone could do it! What fun is that???

Keep at it... It will all work out in the end, and you'll be happy that you stuck with it!

 

[Noodlez914]

Ok all, messed around with it a bit tonight. So far my conclusions are..... Is it really supposed to be double bolted? When I remove the bottom bolt and loosed the other it allows that hook to pivot in and out which then works flawless. When that hook it bolted in place and not able to move, my ballast box nor my box blade will drop fully down into that hood. The metal hits metal before it allows it. Should i just throw a single pin in there and allow that hook to pivot forward? I attached a photo to show you. If you go back in this thread a bit you will see the original pic I posted where the to bolts were in it.

 

[RoyJackson]

Ok all, messed around with it a bit tonight. So far my conclusions are..... Is it really supposed to be double bolted? When I remove the bottom bolt and loosed the other it allows that hook to pivot in and out which then works flawless. When that hook it bolted in place and not able to move, my ballast box nor my box blade will drop fully down into that hood. The metal hits metal before it allows it. Should i just throw a single pin in there and allow that hook to pivot forward? I attached a photo to show you. If you go back in this thread a bit you will see the original pic I posted where the to bolts were in it.
View attachment 273687

I'd say it's really supposed to be double bolted...however, if one bolt works, then I suggest you see how well it holds up.
I expect you'll see any problems when you're reversing...the top hook will probably pivot somewhat...possible the upper link on the implement could ride out of the hook, so be aware of that.
As far as pulling, I doubt you have any problems as long as you use a Grade 8 bolt. Do watch for eventual egging of the QH holes though, if you continually use one bolt.

 

[Noodlez914]

I'd say it's really supposed to be double bolted...however, if one bolt works, then I suggest you see how well it holds up.
I expect you'll see any problems when you're reversing...the top hook will probably pivot somewhat...possible the upper link on the implement could ride out of the hook, so be aware of that.
As far as pulling, I doubt you have any problems as long as you use a Grade 8 bolt. Do watch for eventual egging of the QH holes though, if you continually use one bolt.

Yah I'm really hoping someone else on the forums have this exact setup. Im boggled why this box blade isn't attaching the way it should. This is an attachment that was supposed to be imatch ready.

 

[Noodlez914]

Ok.....

I removed both bolts and put pins in (which eliminated the large head of the bolt). Ballast box and box blade both connect easily. It was actually the heads of the bolts that were making the top not be able to slide in between the tops of the attachments. John deere has got to be joking right?? They didn't test this on a Frontier Box Blade and a Frontier Ballast box when redesigning this? Without a doubt this large bolts cause an obstruction which doesnt allow you to fully back into the attachment and raise the hook.