MatthewPaul
Member
I've got a couple 135s, with the 3cyl perkins gas and the response of the governor is pathetic when compared to the 2n that I refurbished over the winter. On the Ford I could adjust the preload and spring tension of the assembly. I dont see a way to do this on the Perkins.
This morning with my Ford 2n, I was pulling a 6ft grader blade, moving large piles of dirt and spreading them, in 2nd gear at 800rpm, and the machine did not care at all, the governor instantly compensated for the load and increased throttle to maintain the RPM. With the 135s, you have to start off with the RPM WAY higher than your desired working RPM, which is fine except every time you lift the implement, whether it be the tiller, grader blade, etc, the rpms jump up to 1500-2500 rpm, and then you have to lower the throttle, re-position, bring the revs up as you drop the implement, so that when it is under load you have the correct RPM for what you are doing. On my tractor, I had the Governor apart as I just rebuilt the engine on it, and there were no signs of wear, whereas my ford had flat spots on the four balls in the governor, and it still outperforms the 135s, with half the HP. Perhaps the two springs have lost their proper tension and length? I'm still not 100% sure how this spring system works when compared to the Ford.
On the 135s there is an inner and outer spring, and the part of the rod that pushes against the Gov arm to decrease RPM. When you increase RPM the large outer spring pulls on the gov arm and increases RPM, and the inner spring seems to act as a buffer.
In short, is there a way to increase the speed of response from the govern? And are all of these 135s so touchy with the throttle, or is that due to the overly complex linkage from the throttle lever to the gov arm being worn?
This morning with my Ford 2n, I was pulling a 6ft grader blade, moving large piles of dirt and spreading them, in 2nd gear at 800rpm, and the machine did not care at all, the governor instantly compensated for the load and increased throttle to maintain the RPM. With the 135s, you have to start off with the RPM WAY higher than your desired working RPM, which is fine except every time you lift the implement, whether it be the tiller, grader blade, etc, the rpms jump up to 1500-2500 rpm, and then you have to lower the throttle, re-position, bring the revs up as you drop the implement, so that when it is under load you have the correct RPM for what you are doing. On my tractor, I had the Governor apart as I just rebuilt the engine on it, and there were no signs of wear, whereas my ford had flat spots on the four balls in the governor, and it still outperforms the 135s, with half the HP. Perhaps the two springs have lost their proper tension and length? I'm still not 100% sure how this spring system works when compared to the Ford.
On the 135s there is an inner and outer spring, and the part of the rod that pushes against the Gov arm to decrease RPM. When you increase RPM the large outer spring pulls on the gov arm and increases RPM, and the inner spring seems to act as a buffer.
In short, is there a way to increase the speed of response from the govern? And are all of these 135s so touchy with the throttle, or is that due to the overly complex linkage from the throttle lever to the gov arm being worn?
