Installed restricted orifice on my hydraulic toplink today

[AKKAMAAN]

So for a low use small volume cylinder like my side link, taking the cheapo route with a home made fixed orifice restrictor would probably work ok? I'm hoping to keep things simple here.

Here is an example how I used to make my orifices....use a regular adapter fitting, drill and tap for a screw, drill or jack the screw, put a wire in the hole, that will prevent it from clogging

 

[picker77]

That's pretty slick. Thanks, Akkamaan!

 

[tommu56]

Here is an example how I used to make my orifices....use a regular adapter fitting, drill and tap for a screw, drill or jack the screw, put a wire in the hole, that will prevent it from clogging

good idea what about a cotter pin in the hole
or a roll pin pressed in

tom

 

[dfkrug]

N600S 3/8 NPT PARKER NEEDLE VALVE

I have a couple of those exact adjustable needle valves. I was
experimenting with them when I was designing my hydraulic thumb.

They work well for what they are intended for, and the color bands allow
you to adjust to a setting you can repeatedly hit.

Note that they are bidirectional, but if you completely close the valve,
they stop flow in only one direction. In the other direction, fluid can
force the needle open at something like 500psi.

Needing finer control of your FEL occasionally, but not always, is a great
use of such a valve. Some FELs have restriction orifices in there from
the factory (s/g JD 70A).

If anyone needs one of these, PM me and I will sell one or both for much
less than SurpCntr.

 

[teg]

...Needing finer control of your FEL occasionally, but not always, is a great use of such a valve...

PM sent... What do you mean by this statement... I would be using this only on a grapple and the "T" part of TnT... (so I can use three but 2 is fine). I want to set once and leave it there forever... (I assume you mean that it's too slow for a FEL fulltime/all the time).

Also, what size are the ports (hope it's 3/8").


.

 

[picker77]

Made a "Type 1 Akkamaan Restrictor" today and installed it on the retract side of my tilt cylinder. I used Akkamaan's "Dremel groove" method, which is a lot easier than drilling the center. Because I was experimenting I installed it without any wires to start with, and it actually worked well. The control is definitely less sensitive in general and the cylinder retract speed is about 2/3 or so of what it was. Extend speed is noticeably faster than retract, which is ok with me. The Dremel cutoff wheel I used was .050" thick, so after accounting for slop caused by me during the cut my slot ended up to be around .060". Tomorrow I'll pull out the adapter and put a .030 wire in it and see what happens, I'm thinking the .030 wire will make things about right.

I used a 3/8 female to male NPT swivel and tapped 3/8-16 threads about 3/4 of the way into the body of the longer (male) section. For the restrictor plug I cut a 3/4" piece from a 3/8-16 mild steel bolt, cut a screwdriver slot in one end, grooved it lengthwise with the Dremel, and screwed it into the body of the adapter for a jam fit.

After doing this, I believe people who may think that using 1/4" hoses instead of 3/8" is going to "slow down" a cylinder are dreaming, since I'm going to end up going from 3/8" down to around .030"-.035" or so by the time I'm done to have any serious effect on cylinder rod speed. I was surprised, but that's the way it is.

 

[TGF]

So is TnT mean your top link and side link are hydro? Sounds useful.

 

[kennyd]

So is TnT mean your top link and side link are hydro? Sounds useful.

Yes, It stands for Top and Tilt.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

So is TnT mean your top link and side link are hydro? Sounds useful.

Here are some pictures of my hydraulic top link and side link.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

Made a "Type 1 Akkamaan Restrictor" today and installed it on the retract side of my tilt cylinder. I used Akkamaan's "Dremel groove" method, which is a lot easier than drilling the center. Because I was experimenting I installed it without any wires to start with, and it actually worked well. The control is definitely less sensitive in general and the cylinder retract speed is about 2/3 or so of what it was. Extend speed is noticeably faster than retract, which is ok with me. The Dremel cutoff wheel I used was .050" thick, so after accounting for slop caused by me during the cut my slot ended up to be around .060". Tomorrow I'll pull out the adapter and put a .030 wire in it and see what happens, I'm thinking the .030 wire will make things about right.

I used a 3/8 female to male NPT swivel and tapped 3/8-16 threads about 3/4 of the way into the body of the longer (male) section. For the restrictor plug I cut a 3/4" piece from a 3/8-16 mild steel bolt, cut a screwdriver slot in one end, grooved it lengthwise with the Dremel, and screwed it into the body of the adapter for a jam fit.

After doing this, I believe people who may think that using 1/4" hoses instead of 3/8" is going to "slow down" a cylinder are dreaming, since I'm going to end up going from 3/8" down to around .030"-.035" or so by the time I'm done to have any serious effect on cylinder rod speed. I was surprised, but that's the way it is.

Glad you tested my idea...
There is a purpose with the wire in the hole....it keeps the hole clean, and not clogged....but the wire need to be able to move back and forth 1/8" - 1/4"...cotter pin should be easy to bend while installing...

Would be cool if you could take a few pics and post of the adapter, screw and wire .....:thumbsup: