internal steering R&R Ford 9n

[four_by_ken]

Well, the ol' 9n gave me the first troubles since I have owned it. It is sitting there with both wheels going in opposite directions. I have a 'owners manual' and I see how the steering works internalls.
Everything outside is all fine. Rod ends and such. It is defintely internal. As I was driving it home and was steering, there was pops and the steering would jerk some, under strain. Luckily it didnt get to the point it is at now until I was home. I can turn the wheel and only one wheel turns. Ther other is stuck in the position it is.

So, I was wondering if there are common parts that wear out inside... in ther gears and such? Bushings... thrust washers, etc?

Any hints will be appreciated.

Thanks
Ken H.

 

[Bird]

Ken, I'd like to see that. I just don't understand and can't picture in my mind how that could happen to have one wheel turn and the other not if all the external parts are OK. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Soundguy]

This message is for BIRD too.

On most modern tractors, there is a single steering arm coming out ONE side of the steering mechanism.. then that hooks to a draglink that goes to that sides front wheel. Then there is another shorter connecting draglink that links to the opposite wheel. Steering turns both wheels via this linkage.

On the old fords, there were two steering arms.. one out each side.. turning hte steering wheel. pushed one arm forward, one aft. the draglinks were independently hooked to each wheel. The steering arms were attatched to sector gears inside the steering mechanism ( on the 8n and NAA ).. on the 9n/2n.. the sector gear and steering arm is 1 piece.

There were 3 steering boxes on the N.. 9n/2n, early 8n, and late 8n.

First gen, had a small knuckle gear that sat at the top of the sectors and turned each the oposite direction.

Worn sectors and drive knuckly are the main problems here... it is more or less non adjustable from a practicle standpoint ( yes.. they can be shimmed.. if you are a machinest.. etc )

In the early and late 8n, there was a ballnut and worm gear that drove the front sector arm/gear. The back of that gear drove the second sector arm/gear.

This 2nd gen box is a huge improvement over the 9n/2n box. Has some provisions for adjustment via rotating the sector mounting plates in the slightly eccentric holes.. Very little adjustment.. but better than nothing.

The 3rd gen box worked good. Sector gear backlash was adjusted via two studs on either side of the sector arms.. back off a locknut, use a screwdriver to screw in or out the stud.. this either engages or disengages the gears from each other slightly, thus adjusting the backlash. I gues came out in 1952.

The later two boxes almost never had problems with the sector gears getting out of sync with each other, as the gear facings and mesha areas are huge.. though, bearings on the worm/ballnut assemble can go out, allowing the ballnut to not mesh completely with the front sector, allowing some skips there.
Suggest you get an I&T FO-4 service manual.. something like 29 bucks at tractor supply.. detailed drawings / diagrams of all 3 boxes.. etc.

( Yes.. I've been through mine and rebuilt it a while back after I broke the steering shaft on the worm setup on a 3rd gen box.... a bit of a job.. but deffinatel doable )

Soundguy

 

[Bird]

Thanks, Chris. I don't guess I've ever even looked at one of those steering arrangements.

 

[Soundguy]

Here is a pic of my 8n, showing both draglinks back to the steering arms. A very innovative design considering it the first N rolled out in 1939, utilizing the independent draglinks to each wheel instead of a single draglink to one wheel, and a transfer bar to the other steering arm.

Soundguy

 

[Bird]

Interesting arrangement; I just never noticed one like it before. And that really is a fine looking machine!

 

[Soundguy]

Thankya

Soundguy

 

[CMunger]

Is that a after-market grill I see there?
Chuck M.

 

[Youare]

I had a simliar problem on my 8N once. I attributed my problem to the front end loader placing a great deal of weight on the steering parts.

I tried to rebuild the box but came to the conclusion it was not possible without doing some seriour machine work. I was able to find a used steering box out of a later model Ford tractor which bolted right up. The only modification was there were two ears to which some sheet metal bolted to which had to be hacksawed off. The newer steering column was about and inch longer than the original. This steering box was much stronger than the original.

I was able to steer the tractor a little by simply placing one foot on either arm coming out each side of the steering box and pushing one side to turn, but I don't suggest you try to go far or fast using this method.

Randy

 

[KenNTx]

There are some steering sectors on e bay right now..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=11756&item=2578898885