Is it really never a good idea to spend extra time to get a full bucket?

[creekbend]

Thanks for posting.

 

[Guesseral]

Wow this takes all of the fun out of using the tractor! The longer you are on the tractor doing fun stuff the less time you are stuck on the honey do list!:laughing:

 

[rd_macgregor]

Then again, you don't have to worry if you work this fast...

[video]http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c201/john_bud/digging/[/video]

It must have been hot working down in that hole. On the 29th, I see it hovered between 108 and 110 all afternoon.
I was a little surprised that he didn't use the loader on the backhoe; it probably has twice the capacity per load as the FEL on the Kubota.
BOB

 

[RaydaKub]

Wow this takes all of the fun out of using the tractor! The longer you are on the tractor doing fun stuff the less time you are stuck on the honey do list!:laughing:

That's easy. Make them the same list. And then because you were so good at it, you have to haul some away again. :thumbsup:

 

[LD1]

Nice chart.

What I do All depends on how far I have to move the dirt. As your chart shows, anything closer than 10 seconds and you move more NOT re-striking the pile. And I usually transport in 4th gear. Which is 4mph. in 10 seconds that equates to about 60'. But If I am hauling several hundred feet away, it is worthwhile to make sure you have a full load.

When the owners manuals mention not re-striking, it is usually in the section about loading trucks and such. In which it DONT pay to re-strike cause they are usually within 20 feet of your pile.

 

[Diamondcutter]

Above info is nice to know. I'm trying to move a lot of dirt about 100 years.

I have a Ford 550 backhoe and I am trying to dig my pond down as deep as I can get it...hopefully 30 or 35 foot. I want to keep the walls as steep as I can with one pathway out (perhaps 200 feet or more long). So far I have been using the front end loader to dig. Would it be better to use the back hoe to pull down dirt from the walls before scooping it up? I can usually get a full load with one or two strikes but the ground is heavy clay with large gravel and it is getting harder. I want the pond deep to give me stable temperature water to use for geothermal system in my future house. Any advise would be appreciated.

 

[john_bud]

It must have been hot working down in that hole. On the 29th, I see it hovered between 108 and 110 all afternoon.
I was a little surprised that he didn't use the loader on the backhoe; it probably has twice the capacity per load as the FEL on the Kubota.
BOB

The camera was hotter in the sun. It was probably no hotter than 85 air temp, but sunny and warm.

Yes, the BH has 2x the capacity per bucket..... but! I can do 5-6 round trips with the Kubota for each one with the old Ford. Plus where the dirt was being placed was on the side of the ramp up and the ground is soft. The 3 rib tires on the ford sink and you pucker so much the seat deforms! That's too much excitement for the old boy...

Above info is nice to know. I'm trying to move a lot of dirt about 100 years.

I have a Ford 550 backhoe and I am trying to dig my pond down as deep as I can get it...hopefully 30 or 35 foot. I want to keep the walls as steep as I can with one pathway out (perhaps 200 feet or more long). So far I have been using the front end loader to dig. Would it be better to use the back hoe to pull down dirt from the walls before scooping it up? I can usually get a full load with one or two strikes but the ground is heavy clay with large gravel and it is getting harder. I want the pond deep to give me stable temperature water to use for geothermal system in my future house. Any advise would be appreciated.

1) You will be LUCKY to keep a 45 degree slope in the water. Probably closer to 30 degrees over time.
2) Yes, dig with the hoe and make piles in convenient locations for the FEL to scoop out.
3) learn to strike the pile and while still going forward, raise and full curl the bucket. As the bucket fills, start going backwards. As you back, turn and simultaneously place the bucket at low transport height.
4) dump with the curl and back up as it's finishing dumping
5) Avoid spinning tires at the FEL load pile, those holes make you go slow
6) Keep the transport distance short. I'd buy a cheap used dump truck or flat bed with a dump function and load that.
here's the type of truck I'm thinking about. $3500
1986 F-700 Grain Truck

7) keep the transport path smooth so you can go as fast as possible

You may be money ahead to hire a medium size dozer to come out and starting from the center, push out the dirt 400 ft in all directions. You can probably get a guy on "a cash basis" to work 10 hours on a Saturday for 1000. Then you can make the center deeper if you desire.

 

[pat32rf]

I think JB's # 7 should have been closer to the top of the list. Easier on equipment & driver....

 

[sixdogs]

Excellent post and effort. Thank you.

 

[boggen]

nicely done!