IS THERE A WAY to have both.....

[CMV]

A hydraulic and manual/standard toplink installed at same time?

I like my hydraulic toplink for box blade, but it is an absolute nightmare for a bush hog - leaks down so fast the bushhog ends up riding on the tailwheel over rough terrain and mangling the fork. So I'd like the hyd toplink in place for times its useful, but for bush hog or tiller that I want to set once and forget, I want the standard kind of manual toplink.

Seems it would be cumbersome to keep swapping them out, but don't really see a way they could both fit without one being in way of other. If they could coexists side by side, that would be sweet!

What would really solve my problem (and no idea if such a device exists) is a hydraulic toplink cylinder that can lock. Set it, then lock it with a set screw or something so it can't move. Would probably just hit the control & break that if it had it....

 

[MtnViewRanch]

A hydraulic and manual/standard toplink installed at same time?

I like my hydraulic toplink for box blade, but it is an absolute nightmare for a bush hog - leaks down so fast the bushhog ends up riding on the tailwheel over rough terrain and mangling the fork. So I'd like the hyd toplink in place for times its useful, but for bush hog or tiller that I want to set once and forget, I want the standard kind of manual toplink.

Seems it would be cumbersome to keep swapping them out, but don't really see a way they could both fit without one being in way of other. If they could coexists side by side, that would be sweet!

What would really solve my problem (and no idea if such a device exists) is a hydraulic toplink cylinder that can lock. Set it, then lock it with a set screw or something so it can't move. Would probably just hit the control & break that if it had it....

Cheapest way, adjust the cylinder as needed and then unplug the rod end coupler. You should be good to go for all day and longer.

Second choice, get a double piloted check valve for your top link similar to what is pictured in this link.

 

[Avenger]

On my tractor, I have three holes vertically to mount the top link into. This is just an adjustment for the angles and for the draft control I believe. I do not see why you couldn't mount a hydrolic top link to the top hole and have it 'hung up' when not in use, and use a manual link on the bottom hole, hanging down when not in use.

That is, if you have those vertical adjustment holes.

 

[CMV]

I think I do, but wouldn't the lower one always be in the way of the higher one?

 

[Avenger]

Well, only one will be hooked up to the implement at a time.

The way envision this happening is say you want to use they hydraulic top link. When hooking up to the implement, simply let the mechanical top link dangle below, maybe secure it to something with a bungee to keep it from bouncing around. That should clear anything in the way of the hydraulic top link. It would dangle down by the PTO.

If you wanted to use the manual top link, simply hook up with the manual one and hang the hydraulic top link up outta the way. My tractor has a hook just for this.

When I let my top link dangle, which is rare, it doesn't seem to interfere with anything. However, I do not have this setup like this at all. This is just how I would start if I wanted to keep both hooked to the tractor and swap them out. The only way to see if it would work, is to hook it up and see if there is the potential for anything to bind or get in the way.

 

[Avenger]

Second choice, get a double piloted check valve for your top link similar to what is pictured in this link.

This too. This will prevent the cylinder from creeping down. This is probably the best choice.
(sorry, didnt see this post before.)

 

[Ford850]

Cheapest way, adjust the cylinder as needed and then unplug the rod end coupler. You should be good to go for all day and longer.

Second choice, get a double piloted check valve for your top link similar to what is pictured in this link.

Yep, unplugging does work well. Mowing and tilling tends to make a mess of the couplers though, even with caps. I’ve been looking at flow control valves, thinking of closing them completely to lock. I think these check valves would be better.

 

[bcp]

Use the hydraulic top link, but use a parallel check chain or cable to keep the top link length to a pre-set maximum.

Bruce

 

[CMV]

This thread is making me feel dumber.....

How does the check valve work? I don't mean how does it physically block the flow of fluid in one direction.....I mean when I later DO want the cylinder to extend, how do I control the hyd toplink cylinder with that in place?

Check chain.....wouldn't that want to attach at the exact same places the hyd toplink is attached? Will have to look at that next time I'm at the tractor to see if a good place at both ends to do that.

 

[Avenger]

The check valve stops the flow when the cylinder moves the fluid. It 'opens' when the supply from the tractor opens it. Meaning, you dont need to do anything but move the lever inside your tractor. The cylinder may bleed down over a longer period of time, but not while your running it.