Is This Indicative of the 3032E/3038E's Capabilities?

[Wolfman]

Although I really need a larger tractor, I keep coming back to the 3032E due to price and small size (we have some tight areas between pens that a larger tractor may have some issues getting around). Due to the low weight of the 3032E, I would probably be able to take it more often to my other property, since any of our vehicles would be able to tow it.

My past personal experience with tractors tells me that 2,000 lbs is just too light for a tractor to accomplish ground engagement tasks efficiently. My last tractor (quite a few years ago now) was a Massey 1445, which weighed in somewhere around 3800 lbs (before loading tires, FEL, Ballast). That MFWD tractor had R4s, and at times I was surprised how easy it was for it to break traction in low gear.

I'm not sure what the capabilities of something like the 3032E might be for using implements like single bottom plows, subsoilers, box blades, etc. So to find out more, I was cruising Youtube, trying to see the 3032E in operation, and came across this video:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f0Y-usYChpo]Mikie on the tractor - YouTube[/ame]

After watching the video, unpleasant memories came pouring back of working with an old IH 284 2WD gas tractor, that was just way too light and somewhat underpowered to be really useful.

I'm going to guess that since this was a rental 3038E, that the R4s were not loaded. Also I realize that the operator probably did not have much experience utilizing the tractor.

How much of a difference would there be if the tires on the 3038E were loaded R1s instead of R4s? Anyone here have a 3032E or 3038E and use a plow or middle buster?

I'm really leaning towards a 5045D, but I keep having thoughts of going small and light for other reasons. Ideally, I would be able to afford 3 machines - and I would have all cases covered - but that is not happening.

Any thoughts or experiences would be appreciated!

 

[dmrp6510]

Two things in that video the box looked like it was tilted two far forward and if he would had put some dirt in the bucket and lowered it a bit it should have been fine

 

[jenkinsph]

Looked to me like he was trying to rip the area up with the scarifiers. I wouldn't drive a tractor around as he did with the bucket raised, seems that would indicate lack of experience to me.

About the 3032E and 3038E, these are both light tractors and work better with tillers than with implements requiring a high tractive effort.

I looked at the 5ooo series tractors and 4000 series and had the same concerns about weight as you did. Finally decided on the 4520 cab with 1100 lbs of iron ballast so it weighs about 5500 lbs. so far this has worked out well for everything I do. Being short and compact allows me to get into some tight places.

 

[Verticaltrx]

First off, R1 tires make a huge difference. In my experience the pulling force is nearly double with R1's vs R4's (I have a set of both for my Kubota.) Second, looks like he doesn't really know what he is doing. Third, my little B3200 Kubota can fill a 5' box blade to the brim, even with the rippers down, and it only weighs 1800lbs bare (about 2700 with loader and filled tires.)

If you want a small tractor for small tractor jobs the weight shouldn't be an issue. Proper tires and good ballast will make it do any work it was ever intended for.

 

[Wolfman]

First off, R1 tires make a huge difference. In my experience the pulling force is nearly double with R1's vs R4's (I have a set of both for my Kubota.) Second, looks like he doesn't really know what he is doing. Third, my little B3200 Kubota can fill a 5' box blade to the brim, even with the rippers down, and it only weighs 1800lbs bare (about 2700 with loader and filled tires.)

If you want a small tractor for small tractor jobs the weight shouldn't be an issue. Proper tires and good ballast will make it do any work it was ever intended for.

Thank you for the info - it is really useful coming from someone who owns both R4s and R1s for the same machine!! I had expected there would be a difference - but didn't realize it would be that drastic.

I was also reading through threads here last night, and a couple of years ago someone posted about the differences in torque between the 3032E and 3038E. He had mentioned that the 3038E has so much torque that it might have issues with wheel spin even in low gear. It appears that he might have been correct?

 

[JiminGa]

that guy is doing every thing he can to tear up a tractor. don't turn with a box blade or any other ground engaging implement in the ground, straight lines only. putting that kind of stress on the three point hitch will eventually cause you to cuss the tractor and your luck.

 

[LD1]

I was also reading through threads here last night, and a couple of years ago someone posted about the differences in torque between the 3032E and 3038E. He had mentioned that the 3038E has so much torque that it might have issues with wheel spin even in low gear. It appears that he might have been correct?

Yep, R1's make a huge difference, as well as weight in the right locations. (ballast).

With that elevated FEL and the BB down, and no ballast in the tires, he didnt have much weight over the rears, which is where ~75% of the pulling ability comes from due to their much larger size.

And as far as the 3038 and 3032 torque issue, you will find that the 3038 probabally wont pull any more or any less than the 3032. You will be able to spin out just as easially in the 3032 in low range. Heck, I have a ~600lb heavier tractor, with loaded r1's, and better technique and I have enough power to spin out in even 3rd gear.

Are you limited to just deere? Becasue there are other machines out there that are better (IMO) for similar money. Deere's are quite pricey for what you get, because green paint is a lot more expensive than other colors if ya know what I mean. Nothing against deere. But you are paying a lot for the name.

 

[s219]

Doesn't look like Mikie is real experienced. He may have been angling the box to engage rippers, but I think he really should have leveled the box and lowered the rippers. That said, we don't know much about the soil and what might have been hanging him up.

I had no problems cutting down through 12" of topsoil and removing it to get down to hardpan recently, using a 48" Howse box blade on a smallish Kubota B2920. In fact, I was impressed how easily it got the job done. It even loosened up the clay once I got down to that level.

 

[JiminGa]

Yep, R1's make a huge difference, as well as weight in the right locations. (ballast).

With that elevated FEL and the BB down, and no ballast in the tires, he didnt have much weight over the rears, which is where ~75% of the pulling ability comes from due to their much larger size.

And as far as the 3038 and 3032 torque issue, you will find that the 3038 probabally wont pull any more or any less than the 3032. You will be able to spin out just as easially in the 3032 in low range. Heck, I have a ~600lb heavier tractor, with loaded r1's, and better technique and I have enough power to spin out in even 3rd gear.

Are you limited to just deere? Becasue there are other machines out there that are better (IMO) for similar money. Deere's are quite pricey for what you get, because green paint is a lot more expensive than other colors if ya know what I mean. Nothing against deere. But you are paying a lot for the name.

Your opinion is confusing. There is another thread here that shows someone paying less than $19k for a 1026r TLB. last time I checked Kubota's BX25 was no where near the machine for not much price difference. And I can back my opinion up because I just traded a BX25 for a 1026R. Hands down not even in the same league. The Kubota is a much weaker, lighter machine, both in pulling power and hydraulics. Go back to the Kubota forums and wine

 

[msmud]

Wolfman,
I was the guy who wondered about the ability of the E series to keep the wheels from spinning, particularly with the 3038e. I bought the 3038e after doing some experiments with my mom's cab 3320 tractor as far as inflation pressures of her R1s. That tractor is reasonably heavy with the cab--more than 70 percent heavier than either E series machine--yet I could easily get it to spin the rear tires with too much air pressure (>13 psi), and could just as easily make the need for 4wd a rarity by running her rear tires at around 9 - 9.5 psi.

With this information, as well as info from the AG tire manufacturers handbook calling for low tire pressures rather than liquid fill, I bought the 3038e and have run the rear R4s at 8 - 8.5 psi with very few traction issues bushhogging on steep slopes. If you are going to run you tractor for ground engaging work, I would order an E series with R1s and keep those rear tire pressures reasonably low for good traction.
Tim