JD 14t baler

[kelly johnson]

Hello folks, I have a JD 14t baler that has been working fine over the years. I got it out this year and with the old twine it would bale and tie but the right side would break right after the not. So I cleaned everything and regreased. it started working again and then neither side would tie. Thinking that the twine was too old I replaced it with 9000 twine from TSC and now cant seem to get it to thread. It appears that the needles arent travelling far enough intio the baler case to get picked up by the knotters. I dont think that i overloaded it and have not made any adjustments. please help, thank you. Kelly

 

[super55]

Actuate the trip lever to actuate the knotter and then have someone hand spin the flywheel. It will give you a better visualization of whats going on if the bale chamber is empty. The needles should come up past and the twine should get caught in the twine disc and then the bill hook should spin and roll the knot. The twine should keep in the twine disc and then then the needles retract for the next bale. (Baler PTO has to be disconnected from tractor and tractor off)

If the needle isn't laying the twine into the twine disc you could have a bent needle or more likely the needle is worn and the twine wore a deep groove in the needle. Hand spinning the baler so you can see everything actuate in slow motion will give a much better idea of whats happening.

If it knots fine without any hay in it then you could have stuck hay dogs or bale tension too tight and your bale is putting pressure back on the twine before it can finish knotting.

 

[kelly johnson]

Thank you very much for the reply and help. The chamber is empty and the needles seem to come up but the (tucker fingers?) or whatever grabs the twine seems to have to be manually pushed over to grab the twine. Is there a shear pin on these? I was having problems with it breaking one side of the bale so i cleaned and regreased the knotters. It baled 3 bales perfectly then stopped feeding twine altogther. So I replace the twine and now cant get it to feed into the knotters. Pretty weird but I just wanted to tell all that I have done. Thank you again.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Tucker fingers are a common problem area as chaff and stuff can hang them up if you don't keep it blown out. The tucker fingers are pulled back to their rest position by a spring. You should be able to move them somewhat to be sure they're moving freely. Keep some chain lube or similar on their pivots.

The tucker finger control arm actuates the tucker fingers during the knotter cycle. It can get bent and is also a common problem. Look it over real good and replace it if it's bent. Also be sure it moves freely.

After you thread new twine through the needles, just tie it off underneath to the needle frame and the next time the needles move up to the knotters the twine discs should grab the twine, the wiper and knife will swing across and cut it, and you'll be ready to go.

Again, pay attention to the tucker fingers and the control shaft that drives it to be sure that's all looks straight and moves freely. If not, you won't tie any knots and, depending on what it's doing, the billhook might just end up with numerous loops of twine wrapped around it.

There's a place in PA that sells upgrade kits and parts for these balers.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Notice that when the knotter assembly rotates there's a "roller"/bearing (should be shiny from where it contacts the curved arm of the tucker finger control shaft) that rotates around and actuates the tucker finger control shaft. No shear pin on the tucker fingers themselves.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Thank you very much for the reply and help. The chamber is empty and the needles seem to come up but the (tucker fingers?) or whatever grabs the twine seems to have to be manually pushed over to grab the twine. Is there a shear pin on these? I was having problems with it breaking one side of the bale so i cleaned and regreased the knotters. It baled 3 bales perfectly then stopped feeding twine altogther. So I replace the twine and now cant get it to feed into the knotters. Pretty weird but I just wanted to tell all that I have done. Thank you again.

Just read your post again.

The tucker fingers don't "grab" or "hold" the twine. They just push/tuck the two ends of the twine together under the knotter so the billhook, wiper, and knife are working with TWO pieces of twine. The tucker fingers swing around about 180 degrees and then return to their "ready / rest" position with the hooked end facing forward.

The twine disc is what grabs and holds one end of the twine while the bale is being packed into the bale chamber. As I mentioned in previous post, if you thread through the needles and then tie that loose end off somewhere underneath, the needles should take the twine up so it's grabbed by the twine discs and then the knife should cut it and set it up for the next bale. (This is the easiest way to get your twine re-threaded.)

 

[super55]

As CH4Ohio said in the previous post. Easiest way to feed the twine disc is to have the needles feed it through by tripping the tie mechanism. I usually have someone spin the flywheel and then watch the process of the knotters to ensure to ensure the twine is going where it needs to go. What rolls the tucker finger around is cone gear that is attached to a larger circular wheel with like half of it having teeth on it. You could have a keyway that worn out inside the cone gear but it is unlikely. Easiest way to determine the issue is get the twine set. Manually spin flywheel, trip the knotters, observe both at the same time and see whats different. Once it knots pull some slack from the two vertical twines to clear the knots and try it again.

If you can't get it to feed and hold your twine disc might be out of time or the tension could be too loose. When your needle comes up to feed make sure the twine lays directly into the circular flat disc with like 4 notches in it that the twine will lay in and spins 45 deg to grab and hold the twine.

If your close to a farm store you might want to try running poly or 16000 sisal twine through the knotters. My NH baler did not like the 9000 sisal TSC at all. Diameter was all over the places and fraying was loading up my knotters. To get the job done I ended up loosening up the bale tension and made lighter bales with the 16000 sisal I had lying around but the baler never missed after that. This year I went back to 9000 sisal but it was clover brand and the baler worked perfectly. Never had to do any adjusting the baler is just finicky about its twine.