bill in ny
Gold Member
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2008
- Messages
- 287
- Location
- south central new york
- Tractor
- kubota m8540hdc12 jd 2305 jd 4005 jd 5055e
good job! nice to have guys like barry to help you when you need it. now the fun begins, picking up bales.
jd 214t baler
- Thread starter donais
- Start date
flusher
Super Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2005
- Messages
- 7,538
- Location
- Sacramento
- Tractor
- Getting old. Sold the ranch. Sold the tractors. Moved back to the city.
Way to go--nice to see your baler problems are behind you (no pun intended).
yah picking them up and stacking was great fun. ok i lie. i threw them on the trailer the wife stacked them until it got too high for her then i did both. and since my 10 and 12 y/o daughters can drive(from the dunebuggy out in the desert) i let the 10 y/o tow us and 12 was navigator oh yah the 8 y/o boy was the stop start alert had his head out the window listening for my commands. i guess it helped that the 10 y/o is 5'3 all i has to dois put the seat forward
Barry Bowen
Gold Member
Glad to see it all came together for you. Next is to hitch the wagon behind the baler and stack as you go. Probably would have been two loads anyway. What are you using for a rake? Those windrows look pretty wide. Little technique especially with JD balers is to pick up the windrow as far out to the right side of the baler as possible. This causes the hay to stand up better behind the auger. Watch your hay behind the auger and this will tell you if you are trying to run too much or too little. The amount is just right when the hay reaches the top of the area behind the auger, but does not roll over the top end of the auger.
the rake is a case 281 side discharge. that thing hates having straight teeth i bought 50 new tines and @ 5 already got bent. some my fault some kinda bad design i think..that wind row was 2 rows raked into 1 i should have left it a single row. the one row was real light i was trying to make all the rows consistant but a few got away from me. On the baler pickup the first row of tines are all broken off(came that way) so i had to really pay attention to keeping the windrow on the outside of the pickup
Barry Bowen
Gold Member
Now that you have cleared the biggest hurdle, that is getting the machine to tie properly, you can make the decisions about what to replace next or whether it is worth doing any more to it at all. The education you have gotten getting these knotters working applies to all balers of all brands basically.
Those wind rows did look a little big, more of a not clean edge than anything else, but if you were moving slow enough they should have been fine. Having all the pickup teeth will make a difference. As you work more with baling you will learn that it is very much an art form and not a science. It is really the operators ability to read the hay going into the baler, as this will determine the quality of the bale being made. Ideal bales are about 12-16 strokes, and should weigh in around 35-45 pounds. Small windrows are okay if you pick up the ground speed to compensate. Look behind the auger, you should be rolling hay up to the top of that chamber so that when the feeder fingers start pulling hay in the first compression takes place as the fingers pull in under the wedged portion the feeder fingers run through.
How do the sides of the bales look that are on the knife side? Are they a good clean cut, or is there a small bit of uncut hay at the top of the bale? If they are not clean cut, look at the manual and find the section on how to adjust the plunger. There are pretty tight clearances all around on the plunger, but it should still run very easily when you turn the flywheel by hand. If the baler is not straight, then these adjustments very much become a do the best you can kind of job.
Any other questions, you know how to get a hold of me.
Those wind rows did look a little big, more of a not clean edge than anything else, but if you were moving slow enough they should have been fine. Having all the pickup teeth will make a difference. As you work more with baling you will learn that it is very much an art form and not a science. It is really the operators ability to read the hay going into the baler, as this will determine the quality of the bale being made. Ideal bales are about 12-16 strokes, and should weigh in around 35-45 pounds. Small windrows are okay if you pick up the ground speed to compensate. Look behind the auger, you should be rolling hay up to the top of that chamber so that when the feeder fingers start pulling hay in the first compression takes place as the fingers pull in under the wedged portion the feeder fingers run through.
How do the sides of the bales look that are on the knife side? Are they a good clean cut, or is there a small bit of uncut hay at the top of the bale? If they are not clean cut, look at the manual and find the section on how to adjust the plunger. There are pretty tight clearances all around on the plunger, but it should still run very easily when you turn the flywheel by hand. If the baler is not straight, then these adjustments very much become a do the best you can kind of job.
Any other questions, you know how to get a hold of me.
ok got a total of 300 bales and still not one miss,... but.....when i was cleaning it out tand was going through it to make sure its ready for next time i need it, i found a spring that is for the tucker finger is it a depot buy or john deere?
Barry Bowen
Gold Member
John Deere for sure! You are doing the right thing also looking over after use to see if anything changed. Keep up the good work.