JD 5103 wont start unless you turn the key off and back on quickly. Help

[TroyW]

I hope I can explain this so that it makes since.

So for awhile now every time I go out to start my tractor it wont start til after I grind the starter for a while and I know I'm wearing my little starter out. This weekend I tried again and by accident after engaging the starter I turned the key off and right back on and it fired right up. I didn't engage the starter on the second attempt just turned it to on. I have now tried this a couple times now and ever time it cranks right up. Wont start til I kick the switch off and back one.

Anyone with a clue of what I need to replace? Or what I need to look for?

 

[Wagtail]

It sounds like the 'common fault' is the starter switch itself. When you turn the tractor off, at the end of working it , the multi-position barrel switch isn't in its correct position. Your quick "On-Off-On = Start" is re-positioning/aligning the contacts for proper ignition.

Replace the whole switch.

 

[DLTTrekkers]

Test your battery

 

[JD5210]

I would say you have an electrical problem and it is in the ignition switch as already suggested. But before purchasing a new switch I would do some checks. I have attached the start system for your tractor. I would start by seeing if you have problem at the fuel solenoid.

 

[CincyFlyer]

Actually, I've seen this on battery ignition automobiles, where the ignition coil runs on a different circuit for the "run" position (though a resistor) than the "crank" position (straight through). So you'd crank it, get lots of fuel/air mix in the cylinders but there was no ignition due to an open circuit in the ignition, and clicking off then on the ignition switch, into the "Run" position, caused a spark and turned over the engine (haven't seen one keep running, as you have.)
Of course, if that JD is diesel, never mind!

 

[Dave M7040]

I hope I can explain this so that it makes since.

So for awhile now every time I go out to start my tractor it wont start til after I grind the starter for a while and I know I'm wearing my little starter out. This weekend I tried again and by accident after engaging the starter I turned the key off and right back on and it fired right up. I didn't engage the starter on the second attempt just turned it to on. I have now tried this a couple times now and ever time it cranks right up. Wont start til I kick the switch off and back one.

Anyone with a clue of what I need to replace? Or what I need to look for?

I am suggesting things other than the key switch.

I have added two yellow arrows to the wiring provided by JD5210.

There are relays and a engine stop solenoid which could be not allowing your engine to get any fuel until a quick pulse of power trips the relay or moves the solenoid.

There is also a diode pack in the red circle which can be part of your issues.

This is a photo on a diode, not a John Deere diode, but to give you an idea of what it might look like

To seriously troubleshoot an electrical problem you need two basic tools costing less than $30.

A test light.

A multimeter.

The multimeter needs to be set to places other than the one in the photo.

With the test light you can easily determine how far power gets on its way to turn on the fuel supply.

If you don't troubleshoot in a methodical way you will spend a lot of $ buying parts that you don't need.

Sometimes several relays are the same and you can swap them to see if things change.

Dave M7040

 

[Stimw]

What Dave said.
I have seen lazy/weak fuel shut-off solenoids and we have all seen relays act up/fail.
I would try turning key on and off without hitting start a few times then try start to see if solenoid opens.
No need to crank very long if it doesn't start, try the key again.
That will get you by until you find the problem.

 

[rScotty]

Wow! Troy, you sure got a bunch of of good advice from Dave M7040 in message #6.
If it were my tractor, I'd just go get ALL the parts he says it might be: a new keyed switch, fuel solenoid, fuel relay, and maybe that mysterious diode and say to heck with the brain straining diagnostic testing.
Shotgunning the problem by replacing all those parts probably won't cost half of what you just saved in diagnostic fees alone.
Enjoy!,
rScotty

 

[Wagtail]

Wow! Troy, you sure got a bunch of of good advice from Dave M7040 in message #6.
If it were my tractor, I'd just go get ALL the parts he says it might be: a new keyed switch, fuel solenoid, fuel relay, and maybe that mysterious diode and say to heck with the brain straining diagnostic testing.
Shotgunning the problem by replacing all those parts probably won't cost half of what you just saved in diagnostic fees alone.
Enjoy!,
rScotty

Maybe everything except the solenoid... those things are bloody expensive!

Especially if it isn't the problem. If you're going to 'fire the parts cannon' at the problem, I'd leave getting one of those until after you've eliminated everything else.

 

[jaxs]

If you are still looking for the problem,I highly recommend allowing Dave7040 and/or someone walk you through using the diagram, test light and meter. What can be learned while troubleshooting this will prove invaluable for electrical problems from now on. At first glance the diagram might look like a can of worms but in reality it will look totally different once you work with it. The answer is within that diagram and once you learn to use a meter and test light,you will be able to narrow similar problems down in short order.