JOHN DEERE 110 TLB COMPLETE LIGHTING CIRCUIT DEAD

   / JOHN DEERE 110 TLB COMPLETE LIGHTING CIRCUIT DEAD #11  
Best tool in the world for electrical troubleshooting (non computer circuits).... I have over $200 worth of analog and digital meters and this $5 tool in my first go to tool for 12 VDC (automobile) troubleshooting...

s-l300.jpg


Sound like you have lost major ground to lighting circuits or have open 12V lead somewhere after fuse....

Dale
 
   / JOHN DEERE 110 TLB COMPLETE LIGHTING CIRCUIT DEAD
  • Thread Starter
#12  
If you are willing to say, how much did you give for it?

Fried, I had been looking for one these for years as I had ran one that a contactor had for several years. After 2011 the price went through the roof. I kept searching but the hours kept climbing on these machines yet the price never dropped. A couple months back this machine popped up at a dealership who bought it at an estate sale in Michigan from the family. Apparently the owner had several new machines kept in a garage on his property. They wouldn't budge at 35,000. so I paid it. 3000.00 to a trucking company and it was home four days later. My local Kubota dealer says the closest machine to the 110 in size/performance is 65-70,000. So I decided so I went with this. Machine had HD front bucket,quick attach Bhoe 12"bucket,thumb,front hydros,rear hydros, rock gaurds,etc. Just got to get the lights to work. Also need to find 18&24" buckets.
 
   / JOHN DEERE 110 TLB COMPLETE LIGHTING CIRCUIT DEAD
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Troubleshooting relying on voltage can be misleading. A modern voltmeter needs very little amperage to operate. In your case less amperage then even your test light.

While your light switch passes the WSM test, perhaps the problem is in the connector which plugs into the light switch.
A poor factory crimp perhaps.

I suggest you unplug the light switch connector and then using a length of wire, provide power to each of the light circuits it feeds.

Next, do the same thing with each lighting fuse. Provide power to the out side of the fuse to see what happens.

Also check fusible link as it is common to the circuits not working. Perhaps it has almost failed and is allowing a little voltage to trickle through

Dave M7040

Excellent advice Dave, thank you. I will follow this next week when I get some time. I hope you're right. The only way I can see to get at all the wiring would be to remove the r-rear tire and render assembly to access it. Pain. I do have the factory manuals but there are no photos of where stuff is located. Do you happen to know where exactly that fuiable link is? I see it on the schematic but there's no reference in any photos.
 
   / JOHN DEERE 110 TLB COMPLETE LIGHTING CIRCUIT DEAD
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Best tool in the world for electrical troubleshooting (non computer circuits).... I have over $200 worth of analog and digital meters and this $5 tool in my first go to tool for 12 VDC (automobile) troubleshooting...

s-l300.jpg


Sound like you have lost major ground to lighting circuits or have open 12V lead somewhere after fuse....

Dale

Yes Dale, that's the one I have. The volt meter shows voltage at the switch but the probe light doesn't get fooled as easy.
 
   / JOHN DEERE 110 TLB COMPLETE LIGHTING CIRCUIT DEAD #15  
Excellent advice Dave, thank you. I will follow this next week when I get some time. I hope you're right. The only way I can see to get at all the wiring would be to remove the r-rear tire and render assembly to access it. Pain. I do have the factory manuals but there are no photos of where stuff is located. Do you happen to know where exactly that fuiable link is? I see it on the schematic but there's no reference in any photos.

From my look at the WSM, the fusible link should be right at the starter. Connection X1 is the fusible link to the starter's battery terminal and connection X2 is to the wiring harness.

Dave M7040
 

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   / JOHN DEERE 110 TLB COMPLETE LIGHTING CIRCUIT DEAD #16  
Does your test light illuminate on BOTH sides of the fuse? Best way to check a fuse is to stick a new one in. I can't tell you how many times I've seen a cracked fuse element test good then open when you put a current load on it.

My next guess would be the main ground or bad connection at one of the plug together connectors.
 
   / JOHN DEERE 110 TLB COMPLETE LIGHTING CIRCUIT DEAD
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Does your test light illuminate on BOTH sides of the fuse? Best way to check a fuse is to stick a new one in. I can't tell you how many times I've seen a cracked fuse element test good then open when you put a current load on it.

My next guess would be the main ground or bad connection at one of the plug together connectors.

I never tried but with the first new fuse I put in. I will try again with another just to rule it out. I did light up on both sides, but I think it would be wise to reconfirm with another fuse. Thanks for the tip
 
   / JOHN DEERE 110 TLB COMPLETE LIGHTING CIRCUIT DEAD
  • Thread Starter
#19  
SOLVED-(sort-of)
I bypassed the 30a main fuse with a fused jumper from the pos side of the battery straight to the loads from the switch. Everything lit up and functioned. I then back traced to the fuse block which I removed and pulled out. I blew everything with high compressed air(a great deal of dirt&dust inside)then wiggled the wire that left the fuse towards the switch. Now everything works. I suspect there is a bad crimp or perhaps the compressed air dislodged something. At least I know where it's faulting. For now I have lights for the darkness which is around 5:00PM. Best lesson has been not to rely on a electronic volt meter as opposed to the old faithful light probe. Thanks again for all the help.
 
   / JOHN DEERE 110 TLB COMPLETE LIGHTING CIRCUIT DEAD #20  
SOLVED-(sort-of)
I bypassed the 30a main fuse with a fused jumper from the pos side of the battery straight to the loads from the switch. Everything lit up and functioned. I then back traced to the fuse block which I removed and pulled out. I blew everything with high compressed air(a great deal of dirt&dust inside)then wiggled the wire that left the fuse towards the switch. Now everything works. I suspect there is a bad crimp or perhaps the compressed air dislodged something. At least I know where it's faulting. For now I have lights for the darkness which is around 5:00PM. Best lesson has been not to rely on a electronic volt meter as opposed to the old faithful light probe. Thanks again for all the help.

Thanks for the update. It is always something simple but it is like chasing ghosts.

Dave M7040
 

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