John deere 4100 safety switch or bad battery?

   / John deere 4100 safety switch or bad battery? #1  

Zsnydes

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Sep 13, 2021
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Tractor
John deere 4100
Hello, this is my first tractor JD 4100. I got it the other day, it ran fine for quite a few hours, multiple times I turned it on and off with no problems. When I tried this morning it would not turn over. Lights work, I hear 2 clicks when I turn the key to on, will not turn over at all. Checked to see PTO and transmission were in neutral, they were. Changed gears to make sure it wasn't stuck in low or high gear. Jumped a wire from one side of the starter to the other and it turns nicely but doesn't start still. Seat switch seems to work, I hear a click under the hood when I engage it. Checked voltage through seat switch, does 12v run through all 4 connections when engaged or just certain ones? I believe I found the neutral safety hooked to 2 screws on the side of the transmission. Had 12v there. How do I check to see if that has made a connection with this safety circuit, in other words where does it come out so I can check the other side to make sure the proper voltage is there? I am also charging the battery even though I have 12.5 v there just to be 100% it's not the battery. Have not touched the PTO switch very much so I haven't even tried there yet. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
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   / John deere 4100 safety switch or bad battery? #2  
There is a control box located under the 4100 seat which integrates all the safety interlock switches. If the switches are in the correct position and the key is moved to the start position, voltage is sent to the fuel solenoid. It sends two signals. The first output last in the neighborhood of 6-10 seconds and is designed to pull the solenoid open. This voltage then goes to zero

The second output is continuous and keeps the fuel solenoid in the open position until the switch is turned off.

Likely the reason it wouldn't start when you shorted the starter and it cranked. Fuel solenoid isn't activated when jumping the started as you did.

Several discussions of this on the 4100/4010/4110/4115 series in the Deere sections. Some provide the actual voltages to check for as well as the correct leads/wires to test. Also portions of the relevant wiring diagrams for some of those CUTs.

I’d start there. Once you find the data grab a multi meter and check outputs. If you have no voltage, start checking individual safety switches (seat, gear position, etc) If you have the correct voltage output, check the resistance on the fuel solenoid. Again, lots of discussions on how to temporary remove the solenoid to see if that’s causing the no start issue (no fuel).

I tried to address your question about the safety interlock function and no start. I didn't address the no crank side of things....Hopefully someone else will address that.


Good luck.
 
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   / John deere 4100 safety switch or bad battery? #3  
Suspect bad battery or cable connections.
 
   / John deere 4100 safety switch or bad battery? #4  
check your messages
 
   / John deere 4100 safety switch or bad battery? #5  
When I have that issue it's usually because I forgot to depress the clutch.
 
   / John deere 4100 safety switch or bad battery?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
There is a control box located under the 4100 seat which integrates all the safety interlock switches. If the switches are in the correct position and the key is moved to the start position, voltage is sent to the fuel solenoid. It sends two signals. The first output last in the neighborhood of 6-10 seconds and is designed to pull the solenoid open. This voltage then goes to zero

The second output is continuous and keeps the fuel solenoid in the open position until the switch is turned off.

Likely the reason it wouldn't start when you shorted the starter and it cranked. Fuel solenoid isn't activated when jumping the started as you did.

Several discussions of this on the 4100/4010/4110/4115 series in the Deere sections. Some provide the actual voltages to check for as well as the correct leads/wires to test. Also portions of the relevant wiring diagrams for some of those CUTs.

I’d start there. Once you find the data grab a multi meter and check outputs. If you have no voltage, start checking individual safety switches (seat, gear position, etc) If you have the correct voltage output, check the resistance on the fuel solenoid. Again, lots of discussions on how to temporary remove the solenoid to see if that’s causing the no start issue (no fuel).

I tried to address your question about the safety interlock function and no start. I didn't address the no crank side of things....Hopefully someone else will address that.


Good luck.
Update
I5 was a bad connection in the seat safety sswitch.I cleaned it up and it started right up! Thanks for all the help guys
 
 
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