John Deere 4400 driveshaft seal leaking. need advice

[Ewasson]

Thanks guys for getting back to me, this makes me much more motivated I will spend some time looking through the material you shared. The seal is located below hydraulic filter so manual says would need to split front of tunnel and it looks like I will need to remove the hydro static transmission. and seal can then be removed from driveshaft and replaced. Than reassembly

 

[Ken]

I HAVE A 4520 power reverser 4X4 with FEL and so far this seal has been replaced 3 times once under warranty. and is again leaking about 3 gallons a week .
Reading the repair Manuel there is pictures of the stands needed to hold rear of engine and clutch housing. Would think that your 4400 might be about the same.
before separating underneath on front drive shaft remove the water hose clamp and slide the dual pipe toward the front . then separate the shaft first removing the small pin to slide the coupling to transmission housing. now can see where the oil is coming from
Drain hydraulic oil. mine has 10 gallons I use a 15 gallon plastic barrow laid on side so bung is on top side. and funnel into the opening . then drain.
remove the hanger for FEL and attach the stands
looking at filter and pipe to return into the transmission remove bolts holding the filter bracket to transmission.
The repair book says to remove the housing input shift shafts not all need to be removed. the one that is for engaging the 4 whl. drive needs to be removed but the shaft retainer doesn't.
also the Seat needs removing (standred John Deere feature) bolts for the pedals and that retain the platform book says remove the fuel tank and console not really needed unless you like a bunch of extra work. Have a helper help to lift and remove . blocking the rear of tractor at hydraulic transmission and prevent tires from rolling remove the large bolts that couples the housing to transmission Find two 12 " long bolts to insert into holes bolts are removed .
when checking and rechecking all holding is free slowly separate the housing. sliding on the 12" bolts . until can see into the housing release the keeper holding the seal in housing. then using a deep socket the size of the seal . tap and push into the housing.
New seal wash with Hydraulic oil and being sure inserting the same as removed tap into place then reassemble.
My feeling is some engineering type could have made to install with out all the labor. remember when seals were installed and a metal holding plate and 2 small screws held in place.
It reads and sounds like a bunch of work but think of 2 at 85 to 115 per hour each including coffee breaks also gets expensive for a 5 buck seal.
ken

 

[texasranger556]

I HAVE A 4520 power reverser 4X4 with FEL and so far this seal has been replaced 3 times once under warranty. and is again leaking about 3 gallons a week .
Reading the repair Manuel there is pictures of the stands needed to hold rear of engine and clutch housing. Would think that your 4400 might be about the same.
before separating underneath on front drive shaft remove the water hose clamp and slide the dual pipe toward the front . then separate the shaft first removing the small pin to slide the coupling to transmission housing. now can see where the oil is coming from
Drain hydraulic oil. mine has 10 gallons I use a 15 gallon plastic barrow laid on side so bung is on top side. and funnel into the opening . then drain.
remove the hanger for FEL and attach the stands
looking at filter and pipe to return into the transmission remove bolts holding the filter bracket to transmission.
The repair book says to remove the housing input shift shafts not all need to be removed. the one that is for engaging the 4 whl. drive needs to be removed but the shaft retainer doesn't.
also the Seat needs removing (standred John Deere feature) bolts for the pedals and that retain the platform book says remove the fuel tank and console not really needed unless you like a bunch of extra work. Have a helper help to lift and remove . blocking the rear of tractor at hydraulic transmission and prevent tires from rolling remove the large bolts that couples the housing to transmission Find two 12 " long bolts to insert into holes bolts are removed .
when checking and rechecking all holding is free slowly separate the housing. sliding on the 12" bolts . until can see into the housing release the keeper holding the seal in housing. then using a deep socket the size of the seal . tap and push into the housing.
New seal wash with Hydraulic oil and being sure inserting the same as removed tap into place then reassemble.
My feeling is some engineering type could have made to install with out all the labor. remember when seals were installed and a metal holding plate and 2 small screws held in place.
It reads and sounds like a bunch of work but think of 2 at 85 to 115 per hour each including coffee breaks also gets expensive for a 5 buck seal.
ken

3 times!? Is sticks and stuff getting jammed into it? Is the shaft worn? Bearings? Something has to be wrong there.

 

[sisupower]

Thanks guys for getting back to me, this makes me much more motivated I will spend some time looking through the material you shared. The seal is located below hydraulic filter so manual says would need to split front of tunnel and it looks like I will need to remove the hydro static transmission. and seal can then be removed from driveshaft and replaced. Than reassembly

Man i really let you down. It been crazy busy at work with cotton season in full tilt. We have had 5 CS690 stripper/balers catch fire so those jobs have been huge. I did look at trying to send you the Tech manual but it won’t let me.

 

[Ken]

3 times!? Is sticks and stuff getting jammed into it? Is the shaft worn? Bearings? Something has to be wrong there.

Hi The first time warranty so don't know reason. The second seal about 1500 hours there is a metal spring that holds the seal tight on the shaft. looking for cause of leak found 1/2 of this spring in insert where the coupling is placed. had the tractor separated and new seal installed. hours. about 1700 hours again dripping Hydraulic fluid. built set of stands and separated the housing. and replaced the seal myself. ran another 300 hours and now again dripping fluid.
as soon as the schedule looks like can repair will reinstall the seal.
I do wish that the seal could be replaced from out side of housing. see no reason for the existing design.
there isn't any sticks gravel or wear that I see. the shaft covering pipe is solid in place and held by water hose clamp.
ken

 

[Montana856]

Hi guys I too need to replace seal I just need to know where to start I understand how to split a tractor just not a hydrostatic

 

[Montana856]

Does the service manual show me how to do it if so I will try to find one and purchase it just leave me in the direction brother

 

[waycoolmarine]

I have done a couple - I am trying to remember - there is a hydro line in the tunnel that need to be unhooked off the pump if you separate at engine / to tunnel the seal im thinking your going for is where drive shaft sticks out of tunnel/trans connection and tractor can be split there . just undo all linkages there is 2 shafts inside that fit into couplers - pretty straight forward .
I use 2 floor jacks just roll apart and slide back together . lesson learned the loader must be off - with it on you have a real hard time re aligning I got some long bolts and cut the heads off to use as guides , just watch which hole as a couple holes you wont be able to get the studs out . don't mean to jump around but the rear fenders come off easy and its easier when there out of the way , hardest part sometimes is the bolts that hold the floor to the fenders.

 

[Montana856]

Yeah I'm getting there I didn't realize I had to take all the plastic off fenders and floor