John Deere 4600 - no bucket tilt function??

[J_J]

To determine the good cyl, remove the hoses from one of the cyl , and cap the hoses. If the cylinders are fully retracted, pull the levers to retract. A good cyl will go into relief. A leaking cyl may not go into relief. If the cyl you are testing is good, it will hold in place. A bad cyl will bypass internally. If you have a hyd gage, you can see the results.

About the only reason I can think of why a QD would not pass fluid with good pressure, is that it uncoupled somehow, and maybe instant high pressure blew the metal line. Did the FEL valve go into relief before that happened. External forces can sometimes generate more force than the hyd pump, such as running the bucket into something, or jerking a heavy load.

 

[Ken]

To determine the good cyl, remove the hoses from one of the cyl , and cap the hoses. If the cylinders are fully retracted, pull the levers to retract. A good cyl will go into relief. A leaking cyl may not go into relief. If the cyl you are testing is good, it will hold in place. A bad cyl will bypass internally. If you have a hyd gage, you can see the results.

About the only reason I can think of why a QD would not pass fluid with good pressure, is that it uncoupled somehow, and maybe instant high pressure blew the metal line. Did the FEL valve go into relief before that happened. External forces can sometimes generate more force than the hyd pump, such as running the bucket into something, or jerking a heavy load.

J J the tractor with forks was lifting a set of weights about 180 lbs. forks were about 2 feet off the ground. when the engine loaded down and then metal line blew the tractor was not moving. After replacing the metal line fluid would not pass through the coupler
loosend metal line to the coupler and had flow. took the part connecting to hose off and connected this part into the coupler still no flow could not see a problem so took to j.D. dealer purchased new these work as supposed to. Then noticed the forks were drooping downward with engine off or running. As to the FEL going into bypass I cannot remember but there was no time difference between noticing engine loading down and line bursting.
Will be a couple of days before checking farther when repacking kit comes in. ken

 

[kennyd]

Do them in pairs, just like tires, headlights, brakes, windshield wipers...they have both been in service the same amount of time.

 

[Ken]

Do them in pairs, just like tires, headlights, brakes, windshield wipers...they have both been in service the same amount of time.

Thanks Kennyd This is my plan will do J J s checks to determine which is the leaking cyl. but while repairing planned on doing both. Just was surprised the light load and bursting line.
Noticed a site starting in '08 had a good explanation of the problem think you were part of it.
760 hours in 2 1/2 years almost no problems think this 4520 and 400x FEL a good tractor.
ken

 

[Ken]

To determine the good cyl, remove the hoses from one of the cyl , and cap the hoses. If the cylinders are fully retracted, pull the levers to retract. A good cyl will go into relief. A leaking cyl may not go into relief. If the cyl you are testing is good, it will hold in place. A bad cyl will bypass internally. If you have a hyd gage, you can see the results.

About the only reason I can think of why a QD would not pass fluid with good pressure, is that it uncoupled somehow, and maybe instant high pressure blew the metal line. Did the FEL valve go into relief before that happened. External forces can sometimes generate more force than the hyd pump, such as running the bucket into something, or jerking a heavy load.

J J The parts came in and did as suggested the left cyl. was leaking so replaced the seals and put all back togather seems good again. Only have one question. The nut on end of the rod was loose by maybe 2 turns. I tightened it to 100 lb. torgue.
Rechecked the QD connectors The male end will not pass fluid. ball retracts but is plugged.
Haven't checked further.
Thanks for your help as well as the others suggestions.
ken

 

[DIGnVT]

This past week I rebuilt a bucket cylinder on my JD 110 TLB. My first attempt at such a thing. I took pictures which I will forward as soon as I get home and download them from my camera. After removing the snap ring, you have to push the rod guide/cap into the cylinder (very counter intuitive). On mine it went in relatively easy for the first 3/8 of an inch, after that I slowly worked it with a drift punch. You will see a groove in the cylinder wall. Use the orange, split and beveled nylon ring that is in the kit to fill the groove. After the ring is in place use the rod like a slide hammer against the base of the guide/cap and it will slide out. I was surprised how easy it came out. I replaced the seals one at a time. Reassembled and found no leaks, went back to work.
I will post the pics tonight. Any questions let me know and I will try to help. Keep in mind hydraulic repair is not my full time job.

 

[J_J]

J J The parts came in and did as suggested the left cyl. was leaking so replaced the seals and put all back togather seems good again. Only have one question. The nut on end of the rod was loose by maybe 2 turns. I tightened it to 100 lb. torgue.
Rechecked the QD connectors The male end will not pass fluid. ball retracts but is plugged.
Haven't checked further.
Thanks for your help as well as the others suggestions.
ken

Did you unscrew the QD from the hose and then plug it back in and put in a bucket and see if it will pass fluid. Replace the QD if it is bad. Some of the QD manufactures offer a kit to rebuild the QD fittings..

 

[Ken]

Did you unscrew the QD from the hose and then plug it back in and put in a bucket and see if it will pass fluid. Replace the QD if it is bad. Some of the QD manufactures offer a kit to rebuild the QD fittings..

The QD was Jd orginial and did as you suggest. no flow. so was replaced. relooking at male tip seems to maybe not being released when fully seated. it is now sitting on bench will look later when time is slower.
Thanks for your help.
ken

 

[Barrybarry45]

Today my John Deere 460 loader stopped tilting. It seems locked in the up position. It will tilt down about an inch and then lock up. It will not go down any further. But it will come back up to full upright. The Cylinders will travel about an inch. They are not leaking and there is no visible problem. No lines leaking. Can't see anything caught in the tilt mechanism. When tilting down, it will move only about an inch and then it stops and you hear the tractor load up trying to tilt it further. It still lifts and descends just fine, it just won't tilt. I don't know much about lifts, etc so this is totally baffling to me. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[kennyd]

Today my John Deere 460 loader stopped tilting. It seems locked in the up position. It will tilt down about an inch and then lock up. It will not go down any further. But it will come back up to full upright. The Cylinders will travel about an inch. They are not leaking and there is no visible problem. No lines leaking. Can't see anything caught in the tilt mechanism. When tilting down, it will move only about an inch and then it stops and you hear the tractor load up trying to tilt it further. It still lifts and descends just fine, it just won't tilt. I don't know much about lifts, etc so this is totally baffling to me. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Welcome. Unplug the four QD's (quick disconnects), clean and then re-connect them. This takes care of 99% of the "my loader won't XXXX problems.