John Deere 970 will not start

[jwilli1427]

I have a John Deere 970 tractor that has been sitting up for about a year and it spins over but does not start. I have checked fuel and it is getting fuel up to the diesel pump. The 970 is supposed to self bleed, I have spun it for 5 mins or so and it did not get any fuel up past the diesel pump. I have taken the line off of the first and last injector and spun it over and it does not ever get fuel up to it. The solenoid works or assume that it works. it pulls back every time I turn the switch to the on position.
Any help is appreciated.
John

 

[Wagtail]

G'day Mate and welcome to TBN from Downunder.

Well, lets get some basic questions out of the way... How old is the fuel? If it's from 'about last year', then drain the tank and put new in. Draining will confirm that fuel is flowing out of the tank and there's no obstruction. It's probably not the problem but starting 'fresh' at least eliminates a possible contributing fault. You might as well change the fuel filter whilst you're at it, and for the same reason.

Check/clean your fuel bowl for any obstructions or 'growths'. (Make sure the fuel line cock wasn't turned "off" when the tractor was laid-up last year)

When you turn the key to the first position and hear the solenoid 'click', do you then hear the fuel pump 'chitter'?

Get back to us once you've checked/done this. OK? :thumbsup:

 

[jwilli1427]

The tank was empty. So I put new fuel In it. The filters are new. No obstructions or growths in the fuel. Fuel line cock is set to on. I can hear the click of the solenoid. I get no "Chitter" from the fuel pump. Not sure if you are talking about the fuel pump or the diesel pump but I get no chitter from either one.
Thanks for the help

 

[Wagtail]

Good stuff. I was just checking to make sure that we're all 'on the same page'. I know (from experience) that if you replace the fuel filter 'dry', it does take a loooooong turn-over time for the self-prime to happen. But you should still hear a pump chitter or rapidly "tick" for your direct injector 4 cyl. YANMAR.

I've learnt to fill a new fuel filter with diesel before installing = shorter self priming engine turn-over.

So, we know that you've got power from the battery 'cause the solenoid clicks and, of course, the starter motor turns over the engine.

Is there a fuel pump relay?

 

[thepumpguysc]

Can you remove the side cover on the inj. pump?? Use a hand impact driver, if you strip the screws, your in for a bad day..
The control rack is probably stuck from sitting w/ no fuel.. THATS IF you have fuel all the way to the pump inlet.. good luck.

 

[jwilli1427]

Can you remove the side cover on the inj. pump?? Use a hand impact driver, if you strip the screws, your in for a bad day..
The control rack is probably stuck from sitting w/ no fuel.. THATS IF you have fuel all the way to the pump inlet.. good luck.

Ok Can you please give me a little more information about the control rack being stuck. How do you unstick this?

 

[jwilli1427]

Good stuff. I was just checking to make sure that we're all 'on the same page'. I know (from experience) that if you replace the fuel filter 'dry', it does take a loooooong turn-over time for the self-prime to happen. But you should still hear a pump chitter or rapidly "tick" for your direct injector 4 cyl. YANMAR.

I've learnt to fill a new fuel filter with diesel before installing = shorter self priming engine turn-over.

So, we know that you've got power from the battery 'cause the solenoid clicks and, of course, the starter motor turns over the engine.

Is there a fuel pump relay?[/QUOTE


Ok I hear no tick on this pump. This is a mechanical pump. Fuel pump is also mechanical. no wires going to the diesel pump that would make it tick or chitter. OK I did finally got a little bit of fuel to the injectors but found a leak in one of the return hoses. Planning on changing this tomorrow. Making some progress. How is it possible for the diesel pump to chitter or tick when you turn on the switch with it being a mechanical pump? I am asking, not trying to be a smart a**.

 

[Wagtail]

Ok I hear no tick on this pump. This is a mechanical pump. Fuel pump is also mechanical. no wires going to the diesel pump that would make it tick or chitter. OK I did finally got a little bit of fuel to the injectors but found a leak in one of the return hoses. Planning on changing this tomorrow. Making some progress. How is it possible for the diesel pump to chitter or tick when you turn on the switch with it being a mechanical pump? I am asking, not trying to be a smart a**.

Nobody is thinking you're being a 'smart a**'. This is all a learning experience for you and those of us helping. So far, all I've advised is a 'sort of' check-list to fault-find where the problem is & isn't.

My 4105's fuel pump is electrical and makes a chittering/ticking sound when it is working, which is at the key turned to the 'running' position (not the starting position). I have no experience with a mechanical pump... hopefully a TBN Member will chime in with advise on this. However, because yours is mechanical I guess you wouldn't hear it working until the engine (via the starter motor) is turning over.

Glad to hear that you've found a leak. It may not be the actual fault, but it's one less fault to contend with.

 

[jwilli1427]

Nobody is thinking you're being a 'smart a**'. This is all a learning experience for you and those of us helping. So far, all I've advised is a 'sort of' check-list to fault-find where the problem is & isn't.

My 4105's fuel pump is electrical and makes a chittering/ticking sound when it is working, which is at the key turned to the 'running' position (not the starting position). I have no experience with a mechanical pump... hopefully a TBN Member will chime in with advise on this. However, because yours is mechanical I guess you wouldn't hear it working until the engine (via the starter motor) is turning over.

Glad to hear that you've found a leak. It may not be the actual fault, but it's one less fault to contend with.

Yeah I found a small leak in the return hose. It's like you said... it is not the reason the engine won't run, however it still needs to be fixed. Not really sure what is going on with this thing. I live in Augusta Ga and the problem with Augusta is there generally isn't a whole lot of people that work on tractors, so I really cannot just call anyone.

 

[zzvyb6]

There are TWO fuel line shutoff cocks on your tractor: one at the rear by the tank and another up front by the fuel pump. Both are on the fuel filter bowl housings. Yes, there are two filters (screens).

Meanwhile, you can force feed the pump (and on to the injector body) by rigging up an intravenous fuel feed. Disconnect the fuel line from the tank line at the firewall (under the plastic cover in front of the shifter) and run diesel into the primary engine filter bowl (which should be filled with fuel and not water, sediment, sand, coffee grounds or illegal drugs).

Crack one of the injectors to check for pressure. There should not be any air bubbles. If there are, crack them all until the air gets out of the lines.

If it still won't fire, push the tractor up to speed on the road with a vehicle and jump start it by letting out the clutch in mid-range and 2nd gear. She'll fire for sure with this method.