No idea, I'm the homeowner and it's my understanding the general contractor is supposed to handle things like that. If not, what do I need him for, to know who the subcontractors are?
Jump Footings
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No idea, I'm the homeowner and it's my understanding the general contractor is supposed to handle things like that. If not, what do I need him for, to know who the subcontractors are?
RodSerling
Bronze Member
First off that footing would not pass in any of the jurisdictions I have worked in nor would it pass my inspection. They should have built a bulkhead at the step down but that takes a few hours. But having said that I've seen it done in residential construction without issue. Secondly the exposed aggregate you see is common and is called honeycombing. It should be filled and rubbed shortly after the forms have been stripped and the concrete is still green.
Lastly and more importantly the crack is a problem that "needs" to be addressed. Concrete does crack sometimes. Sometimes it is just part of the curing process, but often times it is due to the newly placed weight of the concrete on poorly compacted soil. Seeing the way they formed the footing I would have a structural engineer take a look at it and come up with a plan to fix it. Not a letter form an architect, or building inspector. A licensed engineer. If the crack is just due to curing it can be fixed by pinning the crack and injecting an epoxy in it. If it is due to poorly compacted soil it'll have to be ripped down. I've attached a picture of what your footing should look like.
Lastly and more importantly the crack is a problem that "needs" to be addressed. Concrete does crack sometimes. Sometimes it is just part of the curing process, but often times it is due to the newly placed weight of the concrete on poorly compacted soil. Seeing the way they formed the footing I would have a structural engineer take a look at it and come up with a plan to fix it. Not a letter form an architect, or building inspector. A licensed engineer. If the crack is just due to curing it can be fixed by pinning the crack and injecting an epoxy in it. If it is due to poorly compacted soil it'll have to be ripped down. I've attached a picture of what your footing should look like.
Redlands Okie
Veteran Member
Footings in most place i have worked around in southern USA are 18 inch deep to get below frost line and 12 inch wide at a minimum for a one story home on decent soil. Not saying thats the recommended size, saying its the minimum. Many areas have issues with soil types, ground movement and seismic activity that you are not even aware of unless you in a trade that deals with the issues. Then on top of the footing a stem wall is created of concrete or block that raises up to the height needed to get above grade for whichever flooring type is desired. The footing size in WIDTH is important to distribute the weight of the building onto good compacted base of soil and or gravel. The stem wall can add to the strength of the footing a lot as far as load caring but has little to do with preventing settling issues on loose base material. That crack you show would perhaps not be a big issue if it was a hairline crack. Every truck load of concrete comes with a set of free cracks is one old saying. But the crack you show seems to be more than a hairline crack, it actually looks like the concrete has already started separating apart. Why is the rebar not holding it tight together ? As rod sterling above mentions I also think its time you got a 3rd party not involved in the existing project and that is a certified engineer in this type of work to look at what you have. Not just the stem walls cracking but the footing size and the soil. You may have a major issue starting here that will just continue to transfer into your structure. type. It's better to spend some money now and get any issues solved or your concerns answered so that your not trying to figure out why you have floors, sheetrock, doors and windows, tile. etc with issues later. Hopefully all involved can handle the issue professionally and take care of any issues. Get everything in writing because your likely to have issues with this in the feature. This could easily turn into a major ordeal on getting it corrected to everyone's satisfaction.
TractorGuy
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Yeah right! I went through a similar situation when my house was built. In hindsight I should have slapped the contractor with a stop work order and had him tear the whole foundation out and hire a new sub. As I saw problems about to occur throughout the build process I would notify the contractor and he would do nothing. Ended up with lots of stuff patched as he allowed everything I saw about to happen, happen.
747driver
Veteran Member
Seems you have a somewhat major problem and it needs to be fixed before anything else is done. What did the building plans specify and how to be constructed with the concrete footings and walls ? Who signed off that this was a approved method ? Just looks like the concrete contractor did not want to take the necessary effort to construct the proper form for the 'jump' wall. Rod Sterling has the proper pic for the way it should have been done. I am thinking the void area in the 'jump' wall needs to be cut out and then rebar installed with epoxy to the joining walls with new footers also. Good luck
Coyote machine
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Unfortunately today one is somewhat required to be their own contractor and still hire a contractor to do the job and tangle with their buddies, the sub-contractors. Most sub-contractors really don't want to have to deal with the homeowner. I chalk this up to most of them lack good communication skills, even though they may excel at their actual job; laying tile or whatever.
This may not make you feel better, because it is after the fact with regard to your garage foundation build, BUT keep in mind, and keep telling yourself: the key to good building is the foundation, period.
So the benefit to you right now is you have caught defects in time to repair them to your satisfaction. The down side is this IS what your hired contractor's job is/was. And getting him to take of you now may be more difficult since he hasn't been taking care of you to date.
Now it may not be his fault that the foundation is substandard and fraught with issues, BUT it is his responsibility to do a better job of delivering what you agreed to at the outset.
Next question: how much of the job is already paid for? Tell us not a lot, please. This is another way you can get things corrected is if you withheld some or all of the money....
Regardless, you now have to resolve what you know is wrong with your foundation. It may be a long involved process but it will be worthwhile in the end result, vs. doing nothing and living with the shoddy quality you have currently.
Post back some more answers to the questions posed and what you think you want to do going forward.
This may not make you feel better, because it is after the fact with regard to your garage foundation build, BUT keep in mind, and keep telling yourself: the key to good building is the foundation, period.
So the benefit to you right now is you have caught defects in time to repair them to your satisfaction. The down side is this IS what your hired contractor's job is/was. And getting him to take of you now may be more difficult since he hasn't been taking care of you to date.
Now it may not be his fault that the foundation is substandard and fraught with issues, BUT it is his responsibility to do a better job of delivering what you agreed to at the outset.
Next question: how much of the job is already paid for? Tell us not a lot, please. This is another way you can get things corrected is if you withheld some or all of the money....
Regardless, you now have to resolve what you know is wrong with your foundation. It may be a long involved process but it will be worthwhile in the end result, vs. doing nothing and living with the shoddy quality you have currently.
Post back some more answers to the questions posed and what you think you want to do going forward.
Deere Dude
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By the time they fill the garage with gravel and tamp it down and put sealer around the outside wall you will never notice it. It isn't going to cave in because it is all poured concrete. The only concern I have is if there is rebar spanning the opening.
If you got a big shot engineer involved nothing will change things except you will spend more money and still not get the answer you are looking for because it would take a ton of work to cut that whole section out and then you would have pieces poured in.
I am sure you got a fair deal with the contractor because a more professional contractor that used metal forms instead of plywood forms would probably have cost 1/3 more.
Nobody likes cracks but a garage footing would be where I would want one if I had a choice.
If you got a big shot engineer involved nothing will change things except you will spend more money and still not get the answer you are looking for because it would take a ton of work to cut that whole section out and then you would have pieces poured in.
I am sure you got a fair deal with the contractor because a more professional contractor that used metal forms instead of plywood forms would probably have cost 1/3 more.
Nobody likes cracks but a garage footing would be where I would want one if I had a choice.
Billrog
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To think a 4' high wall 8" thick isn't going to hold up a building for a couple ft. span supported on both sides is nonsense. There may be cases where a continuous footing is necessary but I don't see this being one of them.
Redlands Okie
Veteran Member
Rustyiron
Super Member
No, all that area over the void is going to hold (partially) is the slab & vehicle traffic. There will be a wood "header" spanning the o/h door opening and designed in consideration of the loads above, the load point is 1. at the corner bearing the gar. roof & any living space above it, and 2. at the edge of the wall step down that will bear the o/h door header's load.
Like Deere Dude said, the crack's one thing, but are there a couple of sticks of bar in there? It might be detectable with some type of device and a hired engineer will want crazy things done (that the wall contractor won't do) just to cover his rear. Nothing against engineer's but they'll spend some one else's money with no limit's to "stamp" it OK as insurance, and I'd do the same.