Just another junk chainsaw

[LD1]

You have good luck finding gems. Wanna sell that one?

116si/120si or 6000i/6800i are hands down my favorite saw for bucking firewood.

And the 115i or ps540 is my go to for limbing.

Hard to beat that combo with anything. And I still have the 7900+BB if I'm feeling frisky:laughing:

Dad scored another 116si a few months back. Older gentleman that dad has known for years. Knew he was a fan of dolmars. Saw needed repair and figured he would have more in it than it's worth so gave it to dad for a parts saw.

Swapped clutch and brake band with another parts saw and a new fuel line is all that was needed.

 

[xyz123]

Had it sold before picking it up. :drink:

 

[xyz123]

Todays pick to go through and flip later.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

So this old John Deere cs40 is 15 years old I had to take it apart tonight it wasn't oiling the chain. I just had to basically clean out the oil pump. It doesn't get used much these years but when it was new we cleared 25 acres with three chainsaws this being one of them. It still runs really good it was kind of fun to figure out how the oil pump system works. I'm an old Yamaha mechanic so I've been into plenty of Two Strokes but I've never torn apart a chainsaw to be honest.

They are really simple and ingenious at the same time. This model is really an EFCO 940 I believe. It is kind of hard to find some parts for it. Before taking it apart, I was figuring I would have to make my own new parts (CNC machinist/programmer by trade). But everything is decent and in good nick.

By the way, my chain oiling pump is the non adjustable plastic model with a metal drive gear. If anyone has a cheap metal version that is adjustable, I might be interested for future upgrading.

We also have a CS56 big brother to this one. It has been a great saw too. Never had to do anything except 1 spark plug and clean the air filter.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

One thing I noticed (with my manufacturing/QC background), there are a few key items that need to made really well for a saw to last. Yes, the major things like piston/wall and crank /rod clearances, good needle bearings, and cylinder shape/hone marks etc. A 2 ring piston, a good clutch, ignition, and most of all, the ability to get replacement parts. So, I will not be arguing with anybody over which brand is best. Surely there are some duds and loser models, but if you can buy a name brand chainsaw made in the last 20 or 30 years, and can get replacement parts, provided it wasn't ran with out 2 stroke oil, it should be a decent saw.

 

[xyz123]

Lot of pro saws 1 ring. I prefer 1 ring myself. :thumbsup:

27 years on the original piston and 1 ring.

Dad has a saw from 89 that still has not needed a rering from his farm land uses.

I'm reringing this one as it is torn down. So mise well.

 

[dfkrug]

One thing I noticed (with my manufacturing/QC background), there are a few key items that need to made really well for a saw to last. Yes, the major things like piston/wall and crank /rod clearances, good needle bearings, and cylinder shape/hone marks etc. A 2 ring piston, a good clutch, ignition, and most of all, the ability to get replacement parts.

Tho it seems logical that 2-ring pistons would be found in all pro saws, that is not the case, as XYZ says. My 79cc Makita (Dolmar)
had only one ring, and my Suzuki RM125 motocross engine has only one ring. My biggest chainsaw, a Husky 2100 has a 2-ring
piston, but they are only 0.85mm thick, the thinnest rings I have run into in any small engine. There IS a version of the 2100 that
comes with thicker rings, and saw racers love this saw.

As for crank bearings, I suspect that ball bearings give better service than needle bearings, but both types are
readily available aftermarket, where I get them.

The later your engine, the more difficult it will be to tune the carb. The H and L adjusters on newer saws will
have plastic caps and other means of making it difficult to tune them. Brand new carbs may have no access
to these settings at all.

 

[MossRoad]

I bought a set similar to this for the small carb adjustments. I rarely have to adjust anything, but when I do, they are handy vs cobbling up a tool at home.

Amazon.com : HATON 8Pcs Carburetor Adjustment Tool Kit with Bag for Common 2 Cycle Carb Small Engine : Garden & Outdoor

 

[dfkrug]

I bought a set similar to this for the small carb adjustments. I rarely have to adjust anything,
but when I do, they are handy vs cobbling up a tool at home.

If you pull the plastic caps off, you can use one of those tools, yes. I just cut a slot in the end of the screw where you
use the special tool so I can use a slotted screwdriver.

The bigger problem is that removing the H and L screws, as when you clean out the carb, has been
made very difficult. Often cutting off part of the carb or heating and removing epoxy is necessary.
Some carbs have fixed jetting instead of the H screw.

A brand new Husky backpack blower my neighbor just bought has fixed jetting for BOTH H and L.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

A 2 ring is not required, and 2 rings will usually improve reliability but will give up a bit of power.
Are the Shindaiwa's 2 ring? Does Shindaiwa make their own saw or is it a rebadged Echo?