Just got my new B7610 but need some newbie info

[Danc]

Hi,
I have been lurking a lot around and thanks to a lot of good people around here posting valuable information I was able to make a good choice for my needs.

I just took delivery yesterday of my B7610 with B4672A BH and LA352 FEL.... and a couple of books /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

While reading through them I saw that for the first 50 hours I should not run the tractor too hard in order to allow a good breaking-in period for come parts.

I was wondering if anyone would have some advice on what I should be very careful at. For example I see that the PTO speed for the BH (at 540 RPM) i must put the throttle to about 2600 RPM, this seems a bit high to me for a new engine but am not sure.

Thank you in advance

Dan
P.S.
If there was already a thread on this I am sorry.... I really looked around for it but have found nothing.

 

[B2400]

My B2400( essentially the same as yours) has a sweet spot at about 1900rpm for endloader work. Plenty of power and it doesn't feel like your running the s*#t out of the engine. The lower engine rpm will slow down the speed of your hydraulic implements and might make them easier to get the hang of too. The main thing is run the engine where you can operate everything smoothly at!

 

[Skidmark25]

Danc,

I have a B7610 and agree with B2400. Run the engine where you feel comfortable. The hydraulics will respond slower and be easier to manage at lower RPMs. 1800 - 2000 seems fine for 95% of the work I do. Doesn't sound like you will be doing much else with the 3PH that may require more revs other than the hoe. By the time you get the hang of operating at lower RPM's the engine will be ready to work it at higher RPM's if you need to.

--Skid

 

[v8dave]

There has been a hot debate on Tractorbynet.com about the engine speed at which to operate your tractor at while running the backhoe. Some say run at full PTO speed, some say slow it down. It comes down to experience and desired speed of digging. After about 25-30 hours, I started running my backhoe at PTO speed.

For a beginning backhoe operator, the backhoe will be jerky to operate at first. Try the first ten or so hours of use at ~75% of PTO speed, which on a B7610 is around 2,000 rpm, maybe even 1,800 RPM for the first several hours. This is just to keep the bucking down as you learn. What happens is at first you tend to operate only one control/spool/valve/cylinder at a time and all the pump power goes to that one cylinder and it operates real fast--too fast--especially in swing and boom lift. So, running at slower speed, things slow down and you get used to feathering the valves and doing multiple operations simultaneously.

As experience comes you begin to do multiple operations simultaneously and the backhoe will seem too slow. It actually will be slower because the pump power is spread across several functions. You can now speed up the engine and get faster cycle times. When you can "rake" the ground level toward you with the bucket teeth, you've gotten the feel of how to feather the valves and multiple valve operation down.

Always put down the outrigger-stabilizer arms when digging. Even though the B7610 backhoe is on a 3 pt, I raise the back of the tractor just keeping the tires on the ground. I also use the front loader bucket, cutting edge down, to lift the front end up a little and take some weight off the front wheels further stabilizing the tractor. This will be necessary when digging in rocky soil to keep the bucking bronco put in one spot.

You can dig up and move immense boulders with the backhoe, bigger than you can pick up. Just dig around and clear the edges then use the bucket curl to work it up. My manual warns against using the side of the bucket and swing to move debris and rocks, you'll be tempted, but try not to.

The greatest power of the backhoe is in the bucket curl. And it's best applied closer to the tractor when the curl is coming up out of the hole, this pulls down the back end of the tractor against the outriggers and exerts great force. Running the curl out at the boom extension limit will try to drag the tractor backwards--and it will succeed most of the time.

You will be tempted to operate the curl and boom or dipper simultaneously in hard to dig situations. This actually decreases the power available as the boom or dipper will stall and open the pressure relief valve, dumping hydraulic fluid and power. The bucket curl is the most powerful of the controls, use it alone in tough dig situations.

On the humorous side, you will catch your self pulling real hard on the backhoe controls in tough digging—to try and “help” the tractor dig. When you catch your self doing this—ease up. You’ll only wear yourself out, get a stiff neck, sore shoulders and back. Ask me how I know.

Things will likely get a lot smoother for you after 20 or so hours of back hoe time. I've seen backhoe operators on big equipment, I've hired for my shop construction, get jerky on swing and boom movements. So, nobody is perfect. Have a good time with your new tools.

 

[Danc]

Thanks a lot for the tips I really appreciate them.

I have put out 3 hours on it yet and am already impress by the strength of this little tractor....

Dan

 

[LBrown59]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Thanks a lot for the tips I really appreciate them.


Dan )</font>
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Running the curl out at the boom extension limit will try to drag the tractor backwards--and it will succeed most of the time
v8dave
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Yes, and you could easily drag the tractor right into the hole or trench you're digging that way especially if you're a newbie BH operator.
Such a situation could lead to a roll over or tipping the tractor.
I make it a policy to always know where my Stabilizer pads are by checking them frequently.
`````````A safety tip or 2 on operating the BH`````````
Always be sure the stabilizer pads are on solid ground and not so close to a ditch hole or bank that the weight of the tractor could cause a cave in leading to an upset.
When I engage the stabilizers I always lower the one on the low side first.
When lifting the stabilizers I always raise the one on the high side first.

Do not allow anyone close to the tractor while operating the BH.
If someone approaches to close take both hands off the BH controls and leave them there until they get out of that area.
Make sure the TRACTOR is in gear and the parking brake is set tight before getting oh the BH seat.
Double check that the feel bucket and the stabilizers are properly positioned before you ever touch the BH controls.
These precautions may take a little extra time but the tractor FEL and BH is so much faster than the Shovel Mattock and Wheelbarrow method that you can afford a little extra time with plenty of time left over.
You can prevent an accident a lot quicker than you can recover from one.