King kutter bush hog not performing like I need it to. Help.

[bmaverick]

What were the adjustments and tweaks?

It should be obvious as the top-link has limited adjustments and positions.

Depending on the tractor, the top-link can mount in various hole setups to the structure of the tractor. Some machines have 2 sets, 3 sets or even 4 sets of holes.

Next, it's the length to set the top-link for the optimized attachment configuration. Again each tractor will be different. Just dial in the top-link. I usually use a 3FT level on the attachment to set the top-link in place.

Likewise, the lower lift arms need to be leveled as well. This ensures the correct ground setting of the attachment.

With most attachments, doing a level check makes a world of a difference on how things works. Box-blades, straight blades, rear mowers, post hole augers, etc.

When you get good at leveling, then the next trick is learning how to offset the leveling to favor your needs for a desired task with the tractor.

All this should be the common 101 basics of owning a tractor and attachments.

 

[Midniteoyl]

So, what you are saying is.. that you had is a f%^ked up but than learned how to actually do it?

 

[bmaverick]

So, what you are saying is.. that you had is a f%^ked up but than learned how to actually do it?

Ah, nothing of that sort.

When I change out one attachment for another, the offsets with the top-link are different. If I use a straight blade for snow removal, the top-link sits in the 2nd lower holes on the tractor and the top-link is shorter. When I disc-harrow, I have to level the lower arms and then extend the top-link till it just passed the pin thru. It can't be loose else it gives a jarring effect.

I've been doing this for some 35+ years.

Most people think that once an attachment is on the 3PT, they are good to go. Not the case.

 

[ruffdog]

For years I used a Behlen rotary cutter behind the NH tractor without even using a top link. I didn't need one because I never HAD to lift the tail wheel off the ground. Set the 3pt cutting height and tail wheel and I'm good to go. I'm now using a top link with the KK flex hitch cutter on the Toolcat because I need to clear stumps when turning at the ends of the fields. I will be cutting very soon but I have to run the fawns out first.

 

[bmaverick]

For years I used a Behlen rotary cutter behind the NH tractor without even using a top link. I didn't need one because I never HAD to lift the tail wheel off the ground. Set the 3pt cutting height and tail wheel and I'm good to go. I'm now using a top link with the KK flex hitch cutter on the Toolcat because I need to clear stumps when turning at the ends of the fields. I will be cutting very soon but I have to run the fawns out first.

For average mowing, I would agree no top-link would be needed. The only negative is the side-to-side sway would be greater. Most machines not an issue, but SCUT and small CUT machines could be a problem.

For clearing over grown fields with tender young trees, raising the brush cutter, going in reverse slowly can grind them down nicely. Saves countless hours clearing with a saw-zaw. And a chain-saw would be over-kill for the non-ethanol fuel to burn. Thus, the brush hog lives up to it's name in this application.

 

[Danica]

First let me start of by saying I just joined tbn. I must say what a great place to get help and share things! Let me start by saying I first had a ls xg3135 with ag tires and a cheap 5’ Andy500 bush hog. And it cut really well which I liked because I do bush hogging and land clearing on the side. So the time came I’ve grew and needed something bigger. So I went with a ls xr4145 cab with “industrial tires” because I liked my first ls so much. Anyways, along with it bought a pretty well built king kutter 6’ bush hog. Supposed to be faster and better right? 10hp more 1’ wider cut. Not really the case. I cut some big lots in subdivisions and on the first lot with new tractor noticed that the cutter discharges right out of the back straight into the tail wheel which then rolls the thick grass and leaves big balls of grass that doesn’t look so well. So what I did eventually was cut bolt holes on the back and put a piece of old thick conveyor belt over the discharge as a flap
Kinda. Works good until you start cutting heavier stuff and it starts shredding the conveyer belt. Then I noticed it leaving grass and weeds here and there on the edges of cut. Almost like the tires are smashing it down and the bush hog not picking it up or picking it up a little and cutting it half way up and still leaving half standing. So then I find myself cutting half back which doesn’t speed up the process at all. I’ve done every adjustment I can to try and make it cut better. I’ve done research. I’ve heard that blade speed hurts suction. I’ve read to get better blades etc etc. bottom line I’ve got to make people very pleased with my work when I get done Because that’s who I am, and sometimes it leads to heavy equipment getting brought in for me to do more work after I get finished bush hogging. I wanted to get the expert opinions on tbn before I start spending money. I’m open to all options. Thank you!

I've tried them all on my 4 acre pasture, bush hog, flail and finish. The best cut you will get is from a good 5' or 6' (wider leads to scalping) finish mower. Unlike the others it generates enough vacuum to pull the grass that is compressed (mainly by your rear tires) so that if gets cut. Of course, you cant let the grass get 2' high or it will bog down and you'll have to slow to a crawl.

Otherwise if you're stuck with the rotary cutter chains in the back are for more than spreading out clumps...they are there for safety like shooting out rocks etc. Slower than 540 pto rpm will also mess up your rotary cutter's performance.

 

[jcman]

First let me start of by saying I just joined tbn. I must say what a great place to get help and share things! Let me start by saying I first had a ls xg3135 with ag tires and a cheap 5’ Andy500 bush hog. And it cut really well which I liked because I do bush hogging and land clearing on the side. So the time came I’ve grew and needed something bigger. So I went with a ls xr4145 cab with “industrial tires” because I liked my first ls so much. Anyways, along with it bought a pretty well built king kutter 6’ bush hog. Supposed to be faster and better right? 10hp more 1’ wider cut. Not really the case. I cut some big lots in subdivisions and on the first lot with new tractor noticed that the cutter discharges right out of the back straight into the tail wheel which then rolls the thick grass and leaves big balls of grass that doesn’t look so well. So what I did eventually was cut bolt holes on the back and put a piece of old thick conveyor belt over the discharge as a flap
Kinda. Works good until you start cutting heavier stuff and it starts shredding the conveyer belt. Then I noticed it leaving grass and weeds here and there on the edges of cut. Almost like the tires are smashing it down and the bush hog not picking it up or picking it up a little and cutting it half way up and still leaving half standing. So then I find myself cutting half back which doesn’t speed up the process at all. I’ve done every adjustment I can to try and make it cut better. I’ve done research. I’ve heard that blade speed hurts suction. I’ve read to get better blades etc etc. bottom line I’ve got to make people very pleased with my work when I get done Because that’s who I am, and sometimes it leads to heavy equipment getting brought in for me to do more work after I get finished bush hogging. I wanted to get the expert opinions on tbn before I start spending money. I’m open to all options. Thank you!

I have the same complaint about the tires flattening the grass and then the mower doesn't pick it up. Several years ago I asked about high lift blades, like the ones you can get for lawnmowers, no luck. I have a 4' mower on a tractor that is 5' wide and so I swing the mower to one side or the other and hold it in place with the chains. Doesn't solve the flattening problem of the one tire in front of the mower. The only thing I can think of is to use a different kind of mower altogether, like a disk or drum hay mower. I have a drum mower that lifts and cuts nicely but it lays the grass out in a windrow, which I want for making hay, but if I wanted to mulch it I'd have to run over the windrow with my brush mower, too much work and as you said you're doing land clearing so it probably wouldn't work if there's brush being mowed. I don't know about a commercial heavy duty brush mower but you could talk to some dealers to see what they suggest. BTW I have ag tires on the tractor and the flattening problem still exists.

 

[RancherGuy]

Wish I could find the blade speed specs on this king kutter. I would be willing to bet they’re not up to par with higher priced cutters. I’ve done a lot of bush hogging in my life and never had one leave grass standing like this. As mentioned in my opening statement my 35hp tractor and 5’ cutter was way better. Never had to cut half back or circle back to clip stragglers.

Here are some points that I have experienced with either 3 point shredders and batwings I have owned.
1. The number one reason you see clumping: the back of the mower is cutting lower than the front. Level is almost as bad. If it does better cutting backwards, this supports my point. When the back cuts, because it is lower than front, you are forcing cutting to occur on a 360 degree basis, which also requires a lot more power. The material ends up gathering into clumps because there is "no exit". When the back cuts slightly above the front, the front cuts and the back re-cuts and distributes the cuttings evenly. This also requires less power because cutting is on 180 degrees of a circle. If grass is piling up along the right edge then that only indicates that the cutting is pretty heavy - not a problem - but if you slow down it may have a chance to re-cut into smaller pieces.
2. Once you verify that the front is cutting lower than the back, you can more accurately assess the ability to cut the tractor tire tracks. If your cut is too high then most cutters will have problems with tire tracks especially if the grass in pushed into soft soil. The left edge has the blade traveling away from the tractor, so it should catch the grass laid down by the tire on that side because the grass is "pointing" towards the blade. The right edge is traveling with the tractor and is trying to cut grass pointing away from the blade. Observing these results should help you to determine what is happening.
3. If you think blade tip speed is a cause, try running the shredder faster than 540. They have a huge safety margin, so doing this for a few tests will not be an issue. Just don't make this the normal operation.
4. Try cutting lower. For me, this always improves the ability for the cut to be successful. If the desired final height is high, do a 'low' test so you better understand the connection between actions and responses. For nearly all mowers, if the cut is not low enough, the blade often pushes the material over instead of cutting. For this the blade sharpness has an impact as well as the grass blade weight or grass toughness, as well as the ratio of the grass blade length between "upper" vs "lower" at the point of the cut.
5. Based on point #1 above, I would never advocate adding anything but chains to the rear [discharge area], and I would add only if you have a concern about flying debris safety. Otherwise you are blocking the exit point and will make things worse.

 

[Flad]

Hi' Pto speed is every thing as is travel speed, slight variations of speed occur on different lengths of grass wet or dry, your blade type also if fixed or swinging, up sweep , flat, hooked or a combination, They may need a bit of a touch up with an angle grinder,.

Some even have an overload clutch on the gearbox that also needs attention occasionally especially if nothing has changed and there is no other obvious difference, could even be the clutch on your tractor starting to slip, Ultimately it's the tip speed of your blades that do the job.

Check the gearbox gear ratio of your 5ft hog to your 6 or 7ft hog there should be a fair difference also your tractors pto speeds Along with the power output against the manufacturers recommended sizes of bush hog, it's easy to fit a bigger hog if the tractor can Actually handle it.

A reduction of just 10 rpm makes a huge difference in the blade tip speed in ft per second and probably the reason its not throwing the grass clear of the tail wheel.

An increase requirement of 10 hp dose not sound like much to lose but to make it up it's probably around 700+ rpm on your tractors motor.

Just a warning, A sales man will sell you what you want or ask for, not many of them are really switched on.

All ways consult the pto power rating and working rpm of your tractor not just its overall power rating and stick to those specs when buying any implements.

 

[tman1020]

I don’t think your Cutter is the problem. I think your wide industrial tires are just smashing down the long grass. I don’t think you’re going to find a bush hog type mower with enough suction to stand the grass back up. Especially if it’s really long you might actually have your tire sitting on the top of the grass blade when your mower is over the base. I’m sure you can improve things by adjustments to some degree but with having theR4 tires it I believe you’re always going to be fighting it.
That being said you could always cut the grass before it gets so long that would help some. Or you could cut it a second time with a finish type mower either on your tractor or with a different machine. That would give you the butter cut that you’re looking for.
If this is the main use for your tractor you may want to go to a different type of tire. If not I have had some luck cutting the same lot multiple times from a different direction when Cut quality matters. Or I will just use my finish cutter. You’d be surprised how much a rear discharge finish mower can cut down if you know there’s no debris rocks or stumps to worry about.