Kioti DK Throttle lubrication with pix

[k0ua]

My DK35 suffers from the same problem. Is there any lubrication / cleaning that you can get to without pulling the dash off? Working from memory it looks like it might be a lot of work and I worry that I might endup tearing up more than I fix

In a word, nope.. Sorry. gotta tear into it to fix it.

 

[Alien]

Mine was just too loose. I had to hold the throttle all the time. I should have fixed it years ago but there was always something more important.

 

[Hope Caper]

I have a DK 45 and the throttle has been stiff since I got the tractor 2 years ago this spring. I have been thinking about fixing it so your comment is most timely. I had to replace the ignition (tractor was 8 years old) as moisture got into the key slot and apparently according to the mechanic at the dealers moisture will freeze and warp the housing. Very iffy as to whether I would get a start or not. He gave me a plastic cap with ring which snaps over the key slot housing to put on my new switch. It prevents water from coming in but does nothing for condensation. Its only been a year but no problems so far. I will put fluid film though as per suggestions here.

 

[k0ua]

I have a DK 45 and the throttle has been stiff since I got the tractor 2 years ago this spring. I have been thinking about fixing it so your comment is most timely. I had to replace the ignition (tractor was 8 years old) as moisture got into the key slot and apparently according to the mechanic at the dealers moisture will freeze and warp the housing. Very iffy as to whether I would get a start or not. He gave me a plastic cap with ring which snaps over the key slot housing to put on my new switch. It prevents water from coming in but does nothing for condensation. Its only been a year but no problems so far. I will put fluid film though as per suggestions here.

Fluid film about once a year should fix you up.

 

[SARG]

Just info.
Fluid Film is lanolin and wool.
It is a protect-ant.
Not a penetrating fluid.

 

[mj007]

I have a DK 45 and the throttle has been stiff since I got the tractor 2 years ago this spring. I have been thinking about fixing it so your comment is most timely. I had to replace the ignition (tractor was 8 years old) as moisture got into the key slot and apparently according to the mechanic at the dealers moisture will freeze and warp the housing. Very iffy as to whether I would get a start or not. He gave me a plastic cap with ring which snaps over the key slot housing to put on my new switch. It prevents water from coming in but does nothing for condensation. Its only been a year but no problems so far. I will put fluid film though as per suggestions here.

The switch on my '09 CK20 malfunctioned this winter with the first cold weather; had dash lights, horn, glow-plugs, etc. but starter wouldn't work. I sprayed WD-40 into key slot and worked the key several times and it worked! Great - until the next morning - deja vu all over again! SO I applied some warmth from a heat gun (key slot, dash around the switch and up from the bottom of the dash where cruise lever cutout is) within a minute or less it worked and tractor started and has ever since even though the weather has gotten colder. One of the posts that I read concerning the switch said that there was grease inside the switch body which prompted the heat-gun trick (I figured that the WD-40 worked as a solvent on the grease and just needed some heat to get the job done) - for now it's working and I'm not planning on replacing the switch unless it balks again.

 

[k0ua]

The switch on my '09 CK20 malfunctioned this winter with the first cold weather; had dash lights, horn, glow-plugs, etc. but starter wouldn't work. I sprayed WD-40 into key slot and worked the key several times and it worked! Great - until the next morning - deja vu all over again! SO I applied some warmth from a heat gun (key slot, dash around the switch and up from the bottom of the dash where cruise lever cutout is) within a minute or less it worked and tractor started and has ever since even though the weather has gotten colder. One of the posts that I read concerning the switch said that there was grease inside the switch body which prompted the heat-gun trick (I figured that the WD-40 worked as a solvent on the grease and just needed some heat to get the job done) - for now it's working and I'm not planning on replacing the switch unless it balks again.

I am telling you guys. Fluid Film works in that key switch..

Shop Fluid Film 11.75-oz Fluid Film Rust & Corrosion Preventive Penetrant & Lubricant at Lowes.com

 

[weldonjr]

Today I decided to finally get around to lubing the very stiff hand throttle of my DK35se. It was always stiff and not getting any better with age. First challenge is to figure out how to remove the two "clam-shells" of the upper and lower cover around the steering column. The two holes at the top were a little bit of a mystery, as there did not seem to be a bolt or screw in the holes when probed with a screwdriver, all I got was dirt and rust. They seem to just be holes to allow water to get down into to rust the ends of the 10 Millimeter bolts that go in from the bottom.

They are part of the manufacturing process of the moulded in imbedded nuts I suppose. Any way you remove the 10 millimeter bolts with a small impact ( I used my Rockwell Thrill on impact mode). They have phillips head crosses in them too but you are not going to get these top two off with a screwdriver for sure as they will be rusted. Note I recommend dropping some lube down those holes at least once a year, I intend to, even though my tractor rarely sits in the ran any more.

After removing all of the bolts, you press in on the bottom on both sides of the top clam shell piece to release some small moulded in catches. You Then unfasten the Molex connector on the left side that contains all of the connections for the Key switch.. I lubed up all of the moving parts. but the main part that did the most good was to apply some Kroil to the top part of the friction washer underneath the piece of metal the throttle handle is welded to. This is put on very tightly with 17 MM nuts in a double nutted fashion and probably with an Impact.

After the Kroil loosened it up a bit, I followed that with some Fluid Film, which is my spray on lube of choice, as it penetrates as a liquid, but forms a grease after a few minutes.

Of course re-assemble (you will enjoy getting everything lined back up) and you are done. Now the throttle is many ft. lbs less torque to operate, but still has enough tension to not vibrate around. Of course this would also be the way you would replace the notorious key switch.. I had a few intermittent contacts at first with the key-s$

Today I decided to finally get around to lubing the very stiff hand throttle of my DK35se. It was always stiff and not getting any better with age. First challenge is to figure out how to remove the two "clam-shells" of the upper and lower cover around the steering column. The two holes at the top were a little bit of a mystery, as there did not seem to be a bolt or screw in the holes when probed with a screwdriver, all I got was dirt and rust. They seem to just be holes to allow water to get down into to rust the ends of the 10 Millimeter bolts that go in from the bottom.

They are part of the manufacturing process of the moulded in imbedded nuts I suppose. Any way you remove the 10 millimeter bolts with a small impact ( I used my Rockwell Thrill on impact mode). They have phillips head crosses in them too but you are not going to get these top two off with a screwdriver for sure as they will be rusted. Note I recommend dropping some lube down those holes at least once a year, I intend to, even though my tractor rarely sits in the ran any more.

After removing all of the bolts, you press in on the bottom on both sides of the top clam shell piece to release some small moulded in catches. You Then unfasten the Molex connector on the left side that contains all of the connections for the Key switch.. I lubed up all of the moving parts. but the main part that did the most good was to apply some Kroil to the top part of the friction washer underneath the piece of metal the throttle handle is welded to. This is put on very tightly with 17 MM nuts in a double nutted fashion and probably with an Impact.

After the Kroil loosened it up a bit, I followed that with some Fluid Film, which is my spray on lube of choice, as it penetrates as a liquid, but forms a grease after a few minutes.

Of course re-assemble (you will enjoy getting everything lined back up) and you are done. Now the throttle is many ft. lbs less torque to operate, but still has enough tension to not vibrate around. Of course this would also be the way you would replace the notorious key switch.. I had a few intermittent contacts at first with the key-switch about 140 hours and over a year ago, when the tractor used to sit out in the rain, But I sprayed some Fluid Film in the switch, and have had no more trouble since then. Of course it doesn't sit out in the rain very often any more either. Thanks for Looking.View attachment 329237View attachment 329238

James K0UA

Today I decided to finally get around to lubing the very stiff hand throttle of my DK35se. It was always stiff and not getting any better with age. First challenge is to figure out how to remove the two "clam-shells" of the upper and lower cover around the steering column. The two holes at the top were a little bit of a mystery, as there did not seem to be a bolt or screw in the holes when probed with a screwdriver, all I got was dirt and rust. They seem to just be holes to allow water to get down into to rust the ends of the 10 Millimeter bolts that go in from the bottom.

They are part of the manufacturing process of the moulded in imbedded nuts I suppose. Any way you remove the 10 millimeter bolts with a small impact ( I used my Rockwell Thrill on impact mode). They have phillips head crosses in them too but you are not going to get these top two off with a screwdriver for sure as they will be rusted. Note I recommend dropping some lube down those holes at least once a year, I intend to, even though my tractor rarely sits in the ran any more.

After removing all of the bolts, you press in on the bottom on both sides of the top clam shell piece to release some small moulded in catches. You Then unfasten the Molex connector on the left side that contains all of the connections for the Key switch.. I lubed up all of the moving parts. but the main part that did the most good was to apply some Kroil to the top part of the friction washer underneath the piece of metal the throttle handle is welded to. This is put on very tightly with 17 MM nuts in a double nutted fashion and probably with an Impact.

After the Kroil loosened it up a bit, I followed that with some Fluid Film, which is my spray on lube of choice, as it penetrates as a liquid, but forms a grease after a few minutes.

Of course re-assemble (you will enjoy getting everything lined back up) and you are done. Now the throttle is many ft. lbs less torque to operate, but still has enough tension to not vibrate around. Of course this would also be the way you would replace the notorious key switch.. I had a few intermittent contacts at first with the key-switch about 140 hours and over a year ago, when the tractor used to sit out in the rain, But I sprayed some Fluid Film in the switch, and have had no more trouble since then. Of course it doesn't sit out in the rain very often any more either. Thanks for Looking.View attachment 329237View attachment 329238

James K0UA

 

[weldonjr]

mY DEALER TOLD ME THE CAB HAD TO COME OFF AND TO BRING THE TRACTOR IN ( 2HOUR DRIVE ) $95.00 AN HR AND RETURN THE SAME PRICE AND 2 TO 3 HRS LABOR AT LEAST 1000 TOTAL COST

 

[grsthegreat]

Nope. I lubed mine the same way he did, about a year ago. Works great still. Less than 1 hour work. I have a cab also