Kioti DK55 Overheating

[DieselBound]

I'd verify via an infrared temp tool.

Does the coolant boil over? What's your coolant antifreeze mix (ratio)?

Check that hoses aren't collapsing. (hoses are 10 years old if originals) Belt slipping. Water pump OK?

 

[MichiganIron]

I'd verify via an infrared temp tool.

Does the coolant boil over? What's your coolant antifreeze mix (ratio)?

Check that hoses aren't collapsing. (hoses are 10 years old if originals) Belt slipping. Water pump OK?

For most Round Balers, the DK55C isn't enough horsepower. We used a DK55C for years with a Case 8520 Square Baler and it ran it really well. Checking PTO Horsepower requirements for Round Balers, it wasn't going to be enough horsepower. We now use an RX7320 for both Round and Square Baling. The RX runs both very well.

Check the minimum PTO Horsepower required for your baler. Probably more than the DK55C is rated for. Air Conditioning takes about 3-4 HP to run.

Hope this helps.

 

[DieselBound]

I re-read the initial post and now note that MichiganIron is most likely spot-on. One REALLY has to know the requirements before buying and operating equipment.

Having only experience in cutting grass my thoughts were based on such, no experience with balers. I am thinking that one can't slow down running a baler like one can when cutting; when mowing I can make up for less-than-ideal PTO power by slowing down: I'm running with less power than the flail manufacturer recommends; in my defense I was fully expecting and willing to run slower, and after about 3 years now I can say it's working out just fine (and, as I'd mentioned, run AC).

 

[Flrebel]

I also have a 2012 Kioti dk55 overheating issue. It has also overheated since new. I now have 400 hours on it. I pull a 72 inch Rhino rotary cutter. If I run the A/C the tractor temperature gauge goes to the hot position in approximately 10 minutes. I ride with the doors open. I’ve taken it to my local dealer with no luck. Still living with the problem. If you remove the radiator cap there is no flow ( visible ). I did go ahead and remove the thermostat on Monday trying to see if I could get a visible coolant flow. It didn’t change anything, it still runs hot when you turn on the air conditioning and there’s still no visual coolant flow. I would certainly appreciate any thoughts or feedback.
Thanks in advance

 

[Flrebel]

For what it's worth, I have the RX6620 and run a New Holland 316 baler. Up hill, down hill, AC on the whole time. The temperature gauge never moves from normal operating temps.

Show off

 

[DieselBound]

I also have a 2012 Kioti dk55 overheating issue. It has also overheated since new. I now have 400 hours on it. I pull a 72 inch Rhino rotary cutter. If I run the A/C the tractor temperature gauge goes to the hot position in approximately 10 minutes. I ride with the doors open. I’ve taken it to my local dealer with no luck. Still living with the problem. If you remove the radiator cap there is no flow ( visible ). I did go ahead and remove the thermostat on Monday trying to see if I could get a visible coolant flow. It didn’t change anything, it still runs hot when you turn on the air conditioning and there’s still no visual coolant flow. I would certainly appreciate any thoughts or feedback.
Thanks in advance

Sounds like it could be the water pump, the impeller(s) is decoupled from the shaft or is broken (shaft is being spun but there's action inside). Disconnect belt and spun the pulley to feel for resistance. If your coolant it proper (no air locks) then with a properly functioning pump you should feel resistance (there will be shaft/bearing/bushing/seal resistance PLUS resistance from the coolant). I'm guessing that spinning the pulley really quickly ought to show.

Internal blockage also possible.

 

[ritcheyvs]

I just realized how old this thread is after adding the following:

Avoid running hot like the plague. Another DK55 owner reported (here) similar hot running that eventually melted the seals on the hydraulic piston that engaged the PTO clutch, happened twice as I recall. I don't recall if he had a cab/AC. His initial symptom was a slipping PTO clutch (which generated even more heat). This is extremely costly and difficult to repair; the whole tractor has to come apart. Either fix the cooling problem or run at reduced PTO output but don't overheat.