Comparison KOYKER 140 LOADER for YM2610? Maybe not, what else then?

[CoyPatton]

That's about what I have.

First test I did when I got it, was to scrape my freshly tilled food plot. I went about 10" deep and managed to get a full box of dirt with no effort at all. That was pretty cool. Although it only that time because the lift arms aren't really made to push, they can bent or break stuff and I don't want to experience that.

One of the reason that the pond/dirt scoop is more appealing in my opinion. Most can be pulled or pushed. In lose soil or a loose gravel/dirt pile pushing should not be a problem. If you are working hard packed material connect where you are pulling the scoop and you should spin tires before damaging any components (assuming the scoop is not rusted out). I suspect the boxes similar to those pictured above have those limits related to digging in their literature.

 

[bmaverick]

One of the reason that the pond/dirt scoop is more appealing in my opinion. Most can be pulled or pushed. In lose soil or a loose gravel/dirt pile pushing should not be a problem. If you are working hard packed material connect where you are pulling the scoop and you should spin tires before damaging any components (assuming the scoop is not rusted out). I suspect the boxes similar to those pictured above have those limits related to digging in their literature.

My issues with a pond scoop are many:

- Too narrow
- Sits further to the rear, away from the tractor, thus center of gravity is farther back and requires more front end weights (more money to by weights)
- Scoop structure gets in the way actually and the glides with release mechanism can jam as these are on the sides and not with the 3PT top link as a lever release
- Scoop structure gets in the way with the upper hoops for loading young trees to transport or even transplant
- Scoop is inside a cage, can not easily shovel out materials to fill smaller ground holes as needed.

As for the digging into the ground level, that is not my intent nor purpose with the rear bucket. Moving mulch, snow, landscaping dumped top soil, trees, and such would be the needed method.

With the box blade, I've used that as a ram, hook to pull out tree stumps, etc. Thus, the rear bucket would see much less harsh action.

 

[California]

You've listed all the reasons you need a front loader!

 

[bmaverick]

You've listed all the reasons you need a front loader!

Yes, but I need it in the rear. (hmm that didn't sound good.) :confused2:

At the front, a FEL isn't adaptable for my needed use and the narrow areas the tractor will need to navigate. Thus a REL (Rear End Loader) as an attachment would be ideal.

:number1:

 

[CoyPatton]

Yes, but I need it in the rear. (hmm that didn't sound good.) :confused2:

At the front, a FEL isn't adaptable for my needed use and the narrow areas the tractor will need to navigate. Thus a REL (Rear End Loader) as an attachment would be ideal.

:number1:

You will find that a wide bucket in the rear will swing wide and cause similar issues with navigating in tight areas.
There are trade offs on every implement when you wish to use it for more things.
Many of us have found out the hard way that implements attached to 3 pt hitches swing wide and unless careful hit and sometimes damage things. The longer and wider off the back the worse this is. Just because it is fixed in the rear does not mean it does not cause issues. While I will give you that the frame work especially for reversible dirt scoops, I believe you are wrong on many other points related to the dirt scoop, its center of gravity is more forward than what you claim to want. That is why the dirt scoop is narrow! A good portion of the dirt scoop fits between the lower lift arms. That is just not possible with a wider bucket on the 3 pt hitch. Your described bucket will require more front weights than a dirt scoop will. As for shoveling out small amounts of dirts, put the opening to the rear and the biggest limiting factor is the amount of dirt you can carry. Yes you have a narrow area to target, but plenty wide for even a scoop shovel I have used in grain trucks.
And at $300+/- used dirt scoop is a long ways from $4600 FEL. And half of Pat’s easy mover bucket. It leaves lots of money to buy/build a carry all that would be more open. Some times you do indeed more than 1 implement for a all jobs.

 

[bmaverick]

You will find that a wide bucket in the rear will swing wide and cause similar issues with navigating in tight areas.
There are trade offs on every implement when you wish to use it for more things.
Many of us have found out the hard way that implements attached to 3 pt hitches swing wide and unless careful hit and sometimes damage things.

I'm not looking for anything huge. I have a compact tractor. A rear bucket the size and space of my rear box blade is my intent. This way, I can manage navigating any bucket loads with ease.

Additionally, I have the better stay chains on the tractor arms from Hoye. I've even added a few extra items to ensure the durability with them. In my implement listing, the rear disc-harrow and the brush mower are huge vs. the box blade or a hopefully the rear bucket. Thus, if I had any swing action, I would have noticed it by now.

Another option I did was to replace the pivot bolts where the lower arms attache to the tractor. With the better bolts, huge nyloks, thick and large fender washers, the sway is greatly eliminated to zero. It took some engineering to figure out how to stabilize the lower arms as my old JD-261 finish mower was awful with sway on them.

 

[CoyPatton]

I'm not looking for anything huge. I have a compact tractor. A rear bucket the size and space of my rear box blade is my intent. This way, I can manage navigating any bucket loads with ease.

Additionally, I have the better stay chains on the tractor arms from Hoye. I've even added a few extra items to ensure the durability with them. In my implement listing, the rear disc-harrow and the brush mower are huge vs. the box blade or a hopefully the rear bucket. Thus, if I had any swing action, I would have noticed it by now.

Another option I did was to replace the pivot bolts where the lower arms attache to the tractor. With the better bolts, huge nyloks, thick and large fender washers, the sway is greatly eliminated to zero. It took some engineering to figure out how to stabilize the lower arms as my old JD-261 finish mower was awful with sway on them.

In my opinion if your “bucket” is no larger than a box blade, it is less useful than a dirt scoop. In my opinion you have convinced yourself of an untruth. Unfortunately, you will only learn by doing (the hard knocks school). But that is ok, you are the one that told me my tractor has glow plugs, I proved you wrong on that from the picture you used to justify your error!
Good luck to you on spending unwisely!!!!
I now unsubscribe to this conversation!!!

 

[bmaverick]

Here's a quick pix of the lower arm with the washers and nylok in place. This has helped a good deal to prevent swaying outwards towards the rear wheels.

This next image is with the added Hoye stabilizer chains with added hardware

 

[bmaverick]

It seems I've fully narrowed down the rear bucket. Winston thanks for the tip.

The bucket is only 44-inches (3.5-FT). Just a little less wide than my box blade. Perfect size really. There are many lawn tractors and SCUT's that use this too.

44" Universal Dump Bucket 15714 - FREE SHIPPING
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Swisher-Dump-Bucket-15714/202984964


Every time I find a image search for a tractor with this bucket, it's on that pintrest site. So, linking or posting here wouldn't work. I'll keep looking. The setup and attaching is rather simple. Just need the CAT-I pins mounted in the flanges.

 

[bmaverick]

Ah-ha, found an excellent link. This SCUT is using the Swisher dump bucket with the adapter kit for a Cat-0.

Fabricated Dump Bucket