Kubota b26 wheel spacers

[lakeside]

Kind of off topic but I did start the thread so maybe the Admin will cut me a bit of slack ;-)

I sure wish I could have (read afford) a Laurin cab :-( I did install an aftermarket heated seat cover which keeps my backside off the vinyl seat and that helps a lot when it's a cold and dark -30c.

I did replace the puny work lights that came with the B26 with LED lights. Not only do they use less power, the bright white light they give off really works well when there's snow on the ground. I bought four of them off Amazon, two for the back and two for the front. I may just buy another two more to illuminate the sides.

I'm outside of Canada right now in a place that +34c. I'm sure not looking forward to flying back next week. When I call home I've learned to be careful not to complain to the wife about how hot it's here.

I did that once on another trip (it was -20c and dark when I called home and complained it was just too hot and sunny to drink beer by the outdoor pool) I'm still married but it sure came close that time

Women, they just don't have a sense of humour sometimes, geez.

 

[Lopez69]

So,what make ,brand or model lights did you get..I need ones that draw less voltage..I got heater,lights and radio going..it kills my battery..changing to a bigger alternator won't fit......??

 

[Smokeydog]

2” rear wheel spacers really improved stability on my B26 on my hilly farm. So did rear ballast in the rear tires. Gemplers Bulletproof tire sealant in the front. Mowing and FEL work with grapples improved.
Grooved the front tires. Helps with mowing and the little snow we get. Don’t run on the road so R4 tires last a long time.

 

[JWR]

So,what make ,brand or model lights did you get..I need ones that draw less voltage..I got heater,lights and radio going..it kills my battery..changing to a bigger alternator won't fit......??

Just to nitpick a little bit: Lights do not "draw voltage." They do draw current. You should be able to read the wattage of the lights you consider and divide the wattage by 12v which gives you the amps of current they would draw. Lights are not typically a big draw on a tractor electrical system unless you are overloaded for other reasons. Chances are (if your heater is electric) that is drawing by far the most power (!) There is no reason I can imagine for you to need a larger alternator in the first place. Unless you are radically overloading the tractor electrical system, the stock alternator will produce plenty of "replacement power" while the engine is running for what you are using. A couple more comments: If you need to change anything it might be swapping out the battery for a larger capacity one. Your best measure is the Amp-hour capacity. The larger the better. And generally these tractors have ample space to put a much heftier battery in than the original one. Secondly, if lights are a power concern, just go to LED lights which draw drastically less current than older types.

But back to the main issue -- your heater. I do not know what you are using for a heater but that is the only thing in the picture likely to be causing significant electrical system challenges. Try the "low" setting instead of high if you have that option. If you have a cab, you may want to consider a small hot water type heater like that of a car and run a line from your coolant system IF it is used really often and IF it is that big of an issue to you.

Good luck with all that !

 

[galstaf]

2 rear wheel spacers really improved stability on my B26 on my hilly farm. So did rear ballast in the rear tires. Gemplers Bulletproof tire sealant in the front. Mowing and FEL work with grapples improved. View attachment 590918
Grooved the front tires. Helps with mowing and the little snow we get. Don稚 run on the road so R4 tires last a long time.
View attachment 590919

I have to use my B26 in very tight spots so really don't want to make the rear any wider, but I feel like the front could be wider and still stay within the profile of the FEL bucket.
Can anyone comment on whether that adds a lot of stability? What is the widest you would recommend? Are there any disadvantages? Obviously Kubota doesn't make it wider for a reason.. does it add additional stress on the axles or something? Turning radius issues?

Please share your wealth of experience! Many thanks!

 

[CurtisC]

No stability is added by widening the wheel base. Extra width is negated due to front axle being on a pivot. I use my B26TLB in tight spots in hilly terrain and get added stability using the B/H. I have a long steep driveway to maintain and the only way I can use the the FEL to clean out ditches working at 90 degrees to the slope is with the B/H extended out to the high side. If your work allows the clearance to swing the B/H out as a counterweight you'll get more stability than loaded rears or extra rear wheel width. A word of caution - you do need to have some seat time and a feel for the tractor's stability limits because you'll need to adjust your "counterweight" in and out accordingly as the side to side tilt changes particularly if you're using the FEL. Lastly, as I'm sure you've noticed, the B26 starts to run out of steam going up hills in anything but midrange, adding more weight to lug up the hill will just slow it down even more.

 

[Henro]

No stability is added by widening the wheel base. Extra width is negated due to front axle being on a pivot. I use my B26TLB in tight spots in hilly terrain and get added stability using the B/H. I have a long steep driveway to maintain and the only way I can use the the FEL to clean out ditches working at 90 degrees to the slope is with the B/H extended out to the high side. If your work allows the clearance to swing the B/H out as a counterweight you'll get more stability than loaded rears or extra rear wheel width. A word of caution - you do need to have some seat time and a feel for the tractor's stability limits because you'll need to adjust your "counterweight" in and out accordingly as the side to side tilt changes particularly if you're using the FEL. Lastly, as I'm sure you've noticed, the B26 starts to run out of steam going up hills in anything but midrange, adding more weight to lug up the hill will just slow it down even more.

Ummmmmm...not sure I understand your point, but can assure you that adding spacers to the REAR axle does indeed increase stability.

On the front axle, much like you say.

Perhaps you would like to expand on what you were actually intending to say?

 

[galstaf]

Thank you chaps!

Yeah, I have become quite adept at using the BH to counterweight on a steep pitched hill.. I often use the thumb to grab a big azz lump of concrete to make it even more effective. I also put the BH stabilizer legs out to catch the machine if it starts to go. Just don't forget to bring them back up again when you are done. I have knocked down a gate post and taken out a shed with sticky out legs. lol

I have a few hundred hours now and have definitely found the limits of the machine and have tipped it over a few times! The key is to use the Backhoe legs or the backhoe itself down to right the machine before the diesel feed gets cut off and the engine stalls! You really appreciate how heavy the machine is when you have to winch it back upright by hand! ;-)

Thanks for the tip on the front spacers.. I won't bother then.

 

[CurtisC]

My mistake, first sentence should have read - No stability is added by widening the front wheel base. Given the front axle is on a pivot, widening it contributes no counter moment to the overturning or rollover moment created when the tractor's sideways to a slope. Stability is maintained as long as the total tractor Center of Gravity (C/G) stays within a triangle between the front axle pivot point and the effective ground contact points of the rear tires. As the tractor tilts to one side the CG shifts outboard from the center/line toward the edge of that triangle. Adding liquid ballast to the rears lowers the total CG a bit and moves it back towards the rear axle both helping stability. Widening the rear axle wheel base increases the size of the triangle, also a good thing. However the backhoe weighs about 1000lbs or 1/4 of the total weight of the B26TLB. Extending the movable portion (700-800 lbs) fully outboard essentially moves around 350-400 lbs. of tractor weight about 5 feet (1/2 the total reach) from the centerline or a foot beyond the rear tire. Swing it a bit aft and you can also counter the effects of the forward CG shift due to a loaded FEL bucket. Concerning wheel weights or loaded rear tires, I don't have access to my manual but if memory serves Kubota recommends against ballasting the rear tires on the B26TLB. I suspect they're concerned about added stress to the frame, axle, and stabilizer arms when lifting the rear wheels for B/H work.

 

[Smokeydog]

My owners manual for the B26 has a whole page detailing instructions for rear wheel ballast “For tractor stability and operator’s safety”

Then in the backhoe manual says “rear ballast should be removed” with no explanation as to why.

I agree ballast is really not needed for backhoe work. Stabilizers lift just fine and maybe grip better with ballast. I operate >75% without the backhoe and ballasted tires are very helpful. Not going to pump ballast in and out when changing from backhoe to 3pt hitch. Dealer says no one does and no related equipment problems.

The manuals make no mention of wheel extensions or swinging the backhoe boom uphill for stability on slopes either. I do both.

For OP original post on improving stability on a cab B26 with a rear snowblower, both wheel extensions and ballast would help.

My M59 is the same. It would be a lousy, unsafe 3pt tractor loader without rear wheel ballast on my hilly ground.

The B26 has some major improvements compared to the B20 it replaced. B20 had rear tire ballast. Added ballast and rear wheel extension to the B26 made it feel better on the slopes.