Kubota BX220 problem

[richard_lee]

I am having a problem with the hst pedal. it is very stiff and will not return to neutral .it has agrease point which i grease regular i have disconected the linkage from the pedalto test if the grease was getting through but the pedal was presing easy. i also disconected piston type thing in the linkage but the pedal was still stiff and would not return to the middle any advice woud be much appreciated richard.

 

[wdn]

I have switched to the Mobil 1 synthetic grease (Red grease) and it does a better job on the pedal. The pedal still sticks a bit sometimes in forward speed, thank goodness not in reverse. The synthetic grease does seem to help though.

 

[nitronut1]

Mine sticks too...seems to go away after about 15 minutes of use; was not happening when the weather was warmer...

...could be the gas piston underneath the pedal/frame? /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[cpicton1]

richard_lee,

You can give everything underneath that is connected from the pedal to the transmission a shot of penetrating oil. If that doesn't loosen it up you might see your dealer for warranty work. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Charliebrn]

The problem is that the rod the pedal swivels on is too large for the bushings in the pedal mount. I had the sam problem after Kubota replaced my pedal the first time (the original pedals didn't have grease zirks). I found that opening up the bushings to allow grease to flow through them fixes the issue. Either that or let the dealer fix it! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Kubota has never really fixed this issue... /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

 

[nitronut1]

How did you open it up? I see two bushings in the parts diagram that go over the shaft that connects to the frame. Do the bushings get reamed or sanded out a little?

 

[Charliebrn]

I opened the bushing up with a dremel with a light grinding stone attached. It didn't take long at all...the bushings are fairly soft, so be carefull not to take too much off and to keep it true...(I used an inside micrometer to check my work) and just enough to let grease flow through it.

To get at the pedal mount:
1. remove the pedal (2 bolts) and the battery compartment cover. Also remove the battery cover floor plate, (2 nylon pins if i remember right), and both plastic knobs by pulling them off their shafts.
2. Loosen both fenders (remove all bolts & screws) and remove the seat (1 hitch pin)
3. Remove the deck. This is a little tricky, as the fenders want to be in the way, but if you've loosened them, they'll move enough for you to wiggle the deck off.
4. Remove the pedal mount (A large E clip holds it on, while a modified hitch pin holds the cylinder attached)

The bushings are pressed into the pedal mount, so you'll need to work on it as a whole. This whole process took me about 2 hours to do, then another 45 mins to put it all back together.

Have fun! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[nitronut1]

Cool! Thanks for the instructions! This one will keep me out of the wife's hair this weekend for sure. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Charliebrn]

Oh, one other tip: Remove the screws from the lever guards and that'll buy you more room for moving the fenders out of the way. If I remember right, there are just a couple of them in the wheel well and were easy to get at with a stubby phillips.

Another silver lining: It's a great time to clean out the frame of your BX and to change one of the fuel filters after the deck is off. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Dabota]

I had the same problem. I had greased religously and I tried WD40 but no joy. I disassembled the connecting rods and everything back to the case was free so I thought it was sticking where the shaft for the swash plate entered the case. My dealer said that sometimes washing can cause slight rust there. Someone on this forum suggested "Breakfree", got it at a local gun shop, problem fixed.