Oil & Fuel L2900 front axel oil leak

[Kenonf]

I had to pry\destroy the seal on the bottom to get it out and get new ones,
no thresds, just rubber.
I used 90 wt gear oil.
And I used straight snap ring pliers, but had to lay on my side to see the. snap ring and get the tool to lock on, to remove the ring

 

[phone guy]

Thanks for all the information, I had planned on tearing it down this weekend but with the snowstorm ( 12 Inches) that we are getting now I think I will waite untill the first of the week as I'll be on the tractor plowing snow. I will have to top off the axle befor I plow snow.
Anyone have an idea on removing the caps on the bottom to get to the snap rings?
Thanks Larry from Ohio

 

[geneo]

my L 2550 is also leaking at these seals. is this a common problem with this series tractor and how difficult is it to disassemble ? what is the order of disassembly and are any special tools required , other then the right angled snap ring pliers ?

 

[dfkrug]

GENEO:
This problem will happen to most tractors, eventually.

Dissassembly is very straight fwd...oil draining may be easier if you take the
hub off first. Photo shows the axle pinion.

Kubota has a retrofit kit for the 2550 frt seals and they were nice enough
to use O-rings instead of gaskets.

 

[phone guy]

Ok the snow is cleaned up and I'm ready to tear into the front axel seal replacement , what I would like to know is a step by step tear down on my
L2900, I bought a large pair of snap ring pliers for the bottom snap ring. If I pull the bottom cap off and remove the snap ring will this allow access to the seal or will I need to remove the hub to get to the seal that is leeking? Thanks in advance Larry from Ohio

 

[gerard]

L4400 - I have a 1999 L2500 DT (750 hours) and mine started leaking a few months ago. My Kubota dealer tells me this has been a common problem and a redesigned seal will fix it. Is this just a matter of getting replacment seals and do I need a manual to disassemble or it it pretty intuitive when you start taking it apart? (I know some jobs are really easy AFTER you've done them once but figuring out HOW to do it the first time can be a bear!

 

[art]

I think that the 3130 manual should help you. The basic outer hub units are all about the same design just the parts are different sizes.

I like to use super udt as long as the axles might only weep a bit at the very most and then maybe switching to gear oil to keep from making the repair if the the unit needed to be used. On the other side if they work with super udt you loose less horsepower turning the drives so if they are leaking bad at all fix it!

 

[CamshaftLF]

Ph Guy: This is a straight forward fix pick the front axle off the ground use jack stands u need room to drop the spindle downward the new seal will not look like the old seal, new will be metal not rubber a lot better design. It took me 2hrs a side. U shouldn't need any gaskets only one o-ring pr side mine where ok so i reused the old ones no problems this was done 4yrs ago. Make sure ur dealer gives u the metal seals and not his old stock of rubber ones or u will have the same problem down the road again!!!! Do not remove the bottom cap!!!! take wheel off remove the ring of bolts 8 to 10 that u will see after u remove the wheel that is where the o-ring is in behind this assy, u can get to the snap-ring easily from here, o yes remove the tie rod from spindle assy. any other ? contact me will be glad to help.

 

[phone guy]

I got the seal replaced today , I would like to thank everyone for there help on my repair. It was not too bad of a job, I used SAE 80/90 in the axle case . I also replaced the sight glass in the transmission as it was leaking also. The parts man told me to keep the tops or the spindles clean of dirt and sand as this will cause seals to go bad . He said if you have a FEL this is a common problem. Again thanks Larry from Ohio