L3000DT Clutch

[Herman4]

Anyone have any tips for replacing the clutch in a L3000DT?
I'm a newbie with limited tractor experience but have a lot of mechanical experience. My L3000 only has 430 hours, or at least this is what the hour meter reads. It a 2004 model that I purchased used 18 months ago. I've added about 200 hours with no problems. I was moving dirt, shifted into reverse and the tractor would not move. I could smell the clutch was hot. I was finally able to limp back to the barn. I asked my dealer for advice in diagnosing the problem. He recommended I check the clutch pedal adjustment. He claims there should be appox 1" of play before the clutch engages. I had no play so I adjusted to the recommended 1". The tractor is now drivable but following the dealers recommendation, I set the brake and released the clutch. He claimed if the clutch was good, the engine would stall. Well my engine kept running which he claims is a sign of clutch slippage. I guess it's time for me to get my hands dirty and split the tractor. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Bob_Young]

Herm, I've never done this but expect to someday and have given it some thought. Think you'll probably have to design a rolling crib for each half of the tractor...something to support the back half and let you roll it away from the front and another something to support the front. The front support probably does not need to roll if the rear will.

It's important that the support for the front half not let it flop left or right as the attachment to the front axle is a hinge. So the front half of the tractor will have to be held upright in some manner.

I'd be looking for positive attachment points on the castings on both sides of the split. I think I'd plan to run bolts through the support framework into the attachment points, if possible, to make sure nothing slips. I'd also try to come up with something that will allow hydraulic jacks, a chain hoist or adjustment screws to be used to align everything for re-assembly. But this is conjecture on my part and I'm eager to see what others who have done it recommend. So....FWIW, I guess~

Fortunately the L3000 isn't a big heavy beast, so there's no need to build a bridge.
Bob

 

[rbargeron]

I wouldn't replace it until it starts slipping again in normal use. But when the time comes do the job on a flat surface (concrete best). Instead of a special dolly I block up the front half and use a rolling floor jack for the back.

If your tractor has a loader, the arms back to the rear axle need to be removed or disconnected. It will be worth the cost to buy a shop manual for the L3000DT so you know exactly which pipes, wiring and linkages to remove/disconnect to separate the machine at the bell housing. As mentioned above, drive some wooden wedges in above the front axle to keep the front half upright.

Like any clutch replacement, an alignment tool is needed for concentric location of the new disc with the flywheel. The specific tool for the L3000 may be part of a large clutch service tool kit. If you have a friendly dealer he may let you borrow or rent what you need. Or if you have a lathe you can make a tool from the output shaft dimensions.