Corraza is essential correct. Batteries are not critical for matching, 1) Get dimensions to fit the hole (all 3 ...long, wide and high). 2) Get one with the posts in the same position as your original (plus, minus and to which edge they are close.) 3) Pick a starting capability / strength you want , i.e. CCA rating. The higher the stronger.
There really is nothing more to it. Pay no attention to other specs. You can go to any auto parts store and see the difference between 24 and 24F (just post positions.)
Recommendation: drive the 60 miles as Corraza says, pull out the old battery and take it to ANY battery sales shop, match it up and buy a replacement out there near the tractor. Truth is battery warrantees are worthless because what you have to pay after very much time is enough to buy a new battery somewhere else. Second, Walmart is cheapest and will work fine for years. You will need to turn in the old battery, which they call a core, and get back $15 or what ever $ they assign to a 'core.' Essentially all 'new' batteries on the shelf for sale were rebuilt using the 'core' someone else turned in. Exceptions are (sometimes) those in a brand new car/truck/tractor.
