L4400 Row spacing?

   / L4400 Row spacing?
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Apologies for the late reply.
Sixdogs-
If you had a cultivator in front of the planter (even though it was was behind the tires, would you still see it the same way? I mean, then there wouldn't be a "cultipacked" area that was being planted into correct? Again, my biggest problem with moving the tires out is the relationship to my Front End Loader.
With your 2 row planter planter set up, aren't you putting down a lot more N? Or, does the earthway put down more per application or are you putting down just as much because you come back on each side of the corn? Regardless of what's going on, looks like you're putting down somewhat more P&K with the earthway correct?
The way you do things in general makes a lot of sense to me! I think you're saying you scaled back and plant in three blocks at different times to keep the whole operation more manageable (not doing too much of the same thing at any one time). At the same time you're able to do it with smaller scale equipment. No preplant fertilizer and only sidedress once..... That's what I've been trying to get my head wrapped around down here. Biggest stumbling block for me was sidedressing without incorporating (other than a hand cultivator and watering in) and the delay of getting what the plants need where they need it. Using the earthway and incorporating at the roots sounds like it could work. I like it.
I have about 12 rows about 350' I can plant about right now (field corn). Thinking I'm going to make that a target. I'm in no hurry to get it all done at the same time so could block it out too. This year because of time constraints, I think I need to just use the earthway or hand stick it and be done with it for seeding also. Shouldn't kill me, my wife, or my boys for one year.

Thanks Again!
 
   / L4400 Row spacing? #12  
Taking it easy is the way to learn. I band as much 19-19-19 as I can at or near planting and would say the Earthway and planter/fertilizer unit put down somilar amounts. I band both sides of the plant with the Earthway unit. Four inches down and four inches to the side of the plant. When I put down enought at planting I really don't need to sidedress.

I get my corn ground ready by spraying with Roundup/Glyphosate to kill grass and whatever weeds I can. You better do this. I try not to disturb the ground much because of the weed seeds brought up. I do not cultivate when I plant for that reason and if you do it the weeds will get ahead of you and next year the problem will be 1000 fold worse.

I would only plant sweet corn. If you want field corn buy from an elevator or farmer and save yourself money and aggravation to say nothing of the idle time lost to weeding. I try to let zero weeds go to seed and you better think the same way or quit now and save the money. Also learn to use 2,4-D Amine to kill weeds. If you are organic or crunchy start procreating now because you'll need lots of labor to weed the endless weeds and grass from around the plant. You can cultivate in the middle of the row if you planted accurately.

The front tires don't have to move and in fact they only are in one fixed postion, right? Your loader is QT so you could just remove it. The only reason you need the front wheels is a guide for the planter so your rows are reasonably equal spaced you can cultivate without too much destruction of plants. By the way, fertilizer goes in a continuous line from one end to the other. If you are thinking of fertilizing each plant individually to save a few cents forget it.
 
   / L4400 Row spacing?
  • Thread Starter
#13  
I think I'm following you with your planting technique and reasons behind it. Basically, you plant "no-till", but come back later and cultivate as required.
"Crunchy"... never heard of that one. Will have to look it up! Funny.
I'm not organic and I don't think I'm crunchy, and I'm not opposed to roundup. That being said, I've been experimenting with planting cover crops in the off season to help keep my weeds down. It's hit and miss sometimes.... this year I have a great stand of clover that is virtually suppressing the vast majority of fall/winter weeds AND should help suppress a lot of the spring/summer weeds..... if not, I'll till it in before anything goes to seed, then cultivate as required. On the other hand, I've got a field of rye and winter peas I tried and I didn't get a good stand and I'm wrestling with wether to go ahead and till it in now or chance some of the weeds and get at least a little out of the money I spent for seed and fertilizer. Hit and miss. I'm trying to work things out with cover crops, and I realize I may be wasting my time/money..... but we all take our gambles.
Well, the sweet corn is a given BUT, I also have some critters to feed (chickens, cows, with hogs in short order), so need to experiment with growing field corn to HOPEFULLY, save on some of the feed expenses. I'm thinking your "opposition" to feed corn is that it is in the ground for so long.... meaning a constant weeding problem. I'll just have to see for myself how it goes this year.... whether or not it's worth it to me. What's your favorite variety of sweet corn. I purchased some type of early variety already, but haven't picked a normal season type yet.
Correct. My front tires cannot move, so that's at least one thing I don't have to think about (har har). Moving the rears is still a "problem" though for me. It's not so much the bucket in and of itself, it's that I use the bucket to tell me where my rear tires are as I'm driving.... not unlike what you're talking about with using the front tires to help align the rows better for cultivating. Similarly, my tractor attached tiller covers my tire tracks the way it is set up currently, but won't do that if I move the tires out. That's why I asked the question about if I were to leave the rears in the same location, and set my planter up on a cultivator frame, and had a cultivator in front of the planter, then that would eliminate the "cultipacker effect" of the tires since the cultivators would "till up" the tractor depressions correct? What am I missing? Anyway, that would be ideal for me.... not having to change my setup. Interested in why you think this would or would not work.
Appreciate your insight.
Eddie
 
   / L4400 Row spacing? #14  
I'm OK on the field corn and here's a way to make your life real easy. Plant it deep enough and spray the rows with a pre-emergent herbicide. Weeds solved and time saved is immense. If you need a permit for this you can study hard and pass in a few hours. Contact Extension Agent but there are also some over the counter chemicals that work pretty well and you don't need a permit.

And OK, don't change your wheel setup. Spray Roundup or pre-emergent herbicide and forget the cultivating thing. Weed seeds live for eons just waiting for that glance of sunlight to start the wheels of growth in motion. Don't give it to them. In fact, I recall some sort of study in Holland or wherever that showed a benefit to cultivating at night when sunlight could not hit the weeds and it worked well.
Variety of sweet corn depends on local taste. We plannt the "SE" bicolor type--- Delictable. SE sweetcorn varieties can, they say, be planted next to each other without fear of cross pollination. Corn Seeds: Sugary Enhanced Bicolor Sweet Corn Seeds - Growing Sweet Corn | Harris Seeds Also, sweet corn on the cob that has been dried can be burned in a woodstove when added to wood. Just a thought.

Cover crops like clover may work if you catch stuff before it goes to seed and you have time for the extra effort required to make it work. I sort-of did it but it's better to spent time with the family plaing in the barn.

You would be better to track your rows off the front tire than the bucket. More accurate by far.
 
   / L4400 Row spacing?
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Thanks for the link.
I was wondering whether or not to try one of the SE varieties. Your endorsement sealed the bid. I'll be ordering some soon. I better or it ain't gonna get planted this year.
FWIW, I'm not planning on using my bucket to track my rows..... Just saying that by watching my bucket when I'm doing work around here, I know where my rear tires are by the width of my bucket.... if my bucket fits, my tractor will fit. That wouldn't be the case if I were to move my rear tires out, and knowing me, I'd be pulling down all my sprinklers with the rears!
You ever do the corn in the woodstove thing? Can that be cost effective over purchasing electricity/gas to heat with? I've toyed with the idea of getting one of those forced air furnaces you put behind the house and tie into your ductwork.... but using wood. And I've looked at those pellet furnaces and wondered if they could make sense. Never thought about burning corn in a woodstove..... growing my own fuel other than wood. How would a winter translate into acres of corn needed to heat with?
Oh yeah, I looked up "crunchy" as best I could. Makes sense that the term would be tied in with organics. Can't believe I've never heard the term before.
 
   / L4400 Row spacing? #16  
Yup, sure have burned some whole ear sweet corn in the wood stove but it's a lot of work and you have to fight the mice and mold and misc tiny critters in the corn. Anything with wood is a hassle and probably not worth it UNLESS it's a part of your lifestyle and the wood is free. We burned 5 to 10 cords a year in a Defiant wood stove and have no regrets. I kept the chimney safe and clean and it was good.

Getting older means burning wood gets older as well and I thought about a corn stove or wood pellet stove. Both had plusses and minuses and both needed electricity. Then I learned that propane for me is nearly the same price as wood. So I went with that and on the cold days burn those pressed together blocks/bricks of hardwood chips. Like pellets but no electric needed. Plus, I put a fan near the front of the stoveand all the rooms in my single story house heated equally and were very comfortable. Most of all, it saved propane on the cold days.

There is the romance of many things agricultural and rural and you have to pick and choose that which makes the most efficient use of your talents and earning capacity. Plus, I presume you have kids and wife you you would or should desire to spend time with. You wouldn't want to spend your child's formative years having them hoe sweet corn, hmmm?

Most of us here are gentlemen farmers in that we don't want to knock ourselves out with all of the nasty work but just some of it. Imagine...you could spend 40 hours hoeing corn in the hot sun suffering skin damage that could later emerge as cancerous while your kids miss dodge-ball practice OR you could spray the ground with pre-emergent and have the free time to catch the whole game? Grow a waaaay smaller patch of sweet corn just for the kids and grow with them.

If you were to heat with a corn stove, that would make more sense than a lot of other things. Risk ofa chimney fire is low and there is a long burn time. The amount you need would be known by your neighbors that burn corn and then figure a farmer might get 165 or so bushels per acre. Sure you could grow it youself but your yield with no spray and diminishing grit might be 40 bu per acre. So you would be working for peanuts for dollars earned per acre.
Better to swap your trade with the farmer and have HIM plant and pre-emergent spray the corn you'll need. He could or should harvest it too but at least hand harvesting this way will give you something to actually harvest. After a year of this you'll figure it out.

Burning whole-ear sweet corn really does work and is a blend of cultures. Best bet, however, is to heat with a fossil fuel as a primary means and augment with corn or wood or wood pellets or my choice of pressed wood blocks.

Now, "crunchy" comes in only because I didn't know if you ideologically preferred one way over another and were unwilling to consider alternatves. I realize that you are not crunchy but didn't know that then.

Pick your battles with what you do and balance time exerted with the overall desire of the family. Most women like to look pretty and do nuturing things to a home. They will work in the field but any more than a very little bit is not wise. Let them do what they do best and hoeing corn might be low on the list. become a hobby farmer and do the work youself that is very costly to hire out. Good economics there. Steer clear of dangerous machinery until you assess the risk involved. Go the kids football game and grow some flowers for your wife. Just my free commentary here.
 
 
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