LA120 Drip, drip, drip and lime-scale/calcium

[Neo]

Neo, I don't think the sealing washer will stop your leak. The bolt hole will just fill up with oil and then it will run out at the top around the gasket for the sump. Currently, the oil is leaking around the gasket and running down the bolt to the head. If you seal the head, the oil will just fill the void around the bolt and leak at the joint.

I've had a similar problem on a older B&S engine. It got bad enough that I removed the engine and split it apart. The gasket was broken is about 5 places. It was thin material and vibration seemed to cause the bolts to loosen and then movement of the sump and engine block completely destroyed the gasket. After replacing the gasket and torquing the bolts with new washers, the problem never came back. I think if your engine is just seeping a tiny bit, I'd tolerate it until it got worse. It's a lot of work to remove and split an engine for a tiny leak like that. I can see that it is wetting the frame under the engine, but can't tell how bad the leak is because you've cleaned the area so well.

Hi Jinman,

Yes I have the same thoughts as you but copper washer is cheap so worth a go.
A tea spoon of oil leaks every time the engine cools (I know because I've caught the drips). Doesn't sound like much but with air draft of the engine fan it make dirt sick on the hole one side of the engine which looks disgusting and one the reasons the previous owner sold me it cheap. I hate dirty engines so if the copper washer doesn't work I will go to the effort of removing the engine to fix it.:construction: ... But I'm hoping that someone will come up with a smart trick to get around that. :anyone:

All the best.
Neo

 

[Neo]

That white powder residue is not calcium, it is aluminum oxide (rust) and will get on any aluminum when exposed to the right weather conditions. I get it on my boat after salt water exposure even after thoroughly washing it down. It takes several months of inactivity to show up but it will. Most old aluminum engine show some oxidation when left to set for months. Doesnt really hurt that much as it is just surface but will cause some pitting if left. Thoroughly wash with water, brush with stainless or brass bristle brush, dry and put a light oil/wax coating on it.

Thanks Gary.:thumbsup:

 

[puckgrinder85]

Muratic acid (aluminum wash) will clean that up really good too. Or take it to a engine builder and have him put it in thier caustic tanks, will come out looking brand new. Dunno about prepping for it though.

 

[Don87]

Muratic acid (aluminum wash) will clean that up really good too. Or take it to a engine builder and have him put it in thier caustic tanks, will come out looking brand new. Dunno about prepping for it though.

The prep for that would be to completely disassemble the enigine, remove all bearings....ETC. Just send the case in to be cleaned.

 

[Neo]

Hi All,

I just wanted to update you on the drip, drip drip (through the bolt head). The copper compression washer fixed the problem.... and I'm as surprised as anyone :laughing:


All the best.
Neo