LA150: Need Lift System for Plow

[piratesignal]

When I mentioned the forces would be high I was referring to the mechanincal advantage. I would move it out farther away from the pivot point as it will reduce the forces against the actuator.

Yes. I understand. I did two things. I moved the pivot point (fulcrum), back 3 inches, and then moved the lifting point forward about 3 inches. The result is much more mechanical advantage (and much less force needed to lift blade).

There isn't going to be much resembling the original design when finished.

Thx!

 

[locknut]

That "scraping effect" sounds great in theory,but in practice it's less than desirable and will tear your equipment up.Just sayin.

 

[piratesignal]

Finally got a little bit of work done!

I built a new arm for the plow, about 3" longer than original. I wanted to move the pivot point (fulcrum) back about 2-1/2", so I could create greater mechanical advantage at the lift point. I also created a sleeve/pivot pin, instead of just the sloppy bar that goes through both the mounting bracket and plow arm. This results in much less play and such, and I can also drill/tap a zerk greese fitting if I want.

Also, with the 100-series, you have to remove the muffler guard to install the plow mount. I wasn't going for this cause it looked aweful! You can't really change the guard mounting points, so I just cut 3/4" material out of the guard to shorten the depth, then butt welded it back together. Now there is clearence.

I just ordered the Linear Actuator. 3" stroke. When I get it, I can make the mounting bracket and then do the wiring. I will take pics and make Video of it in operation. Couple more weeks.


PICS
1. New Plow Lift Arm
2. Modified muffler guard
3. New Plow Arm (notice new tilt handle)

 

[piratesignal]

3. New Plow Arm (notice new tilt handle)

Note: I still need to work the new tilt handle. I will round the top few inches on a bandsaw so it looks like a handle, and not just a slab of raw material.

 

[beenthere]

You do good work. Like how it is coming along, and you may even beat the snow.

If I were designing it and fabricating, I would have the new plow arm shown in pic 3 parallel with the ground. As it is shown, looks like it will push into the ground rather than float along the ground. Think others have learned that in their plow fabrications as well.
Not suggesting you need to change anything, but something to think about if the plow digs in too much.
Most of my plowing, just the weight and snow load in the plow will cause it to scrape just fine. And not having it dig in is much better if catching a crack in the concrete or asphalt and 'digging' in, or tripping fast, or breaking something. Also don't like sudden stops.
Adding down pressure, just raises the front wheels off the ground enough so that you lose all steering ability. Hard to counteract that loss even with individual rear brakes. To gain some steering, can raise the blade slightly to load the front wheels a bit.

 

[piratesignal]

You do good work. Like how it is coming along, and you may even beat the snow.

If I were designing it and fabricating, I would have the new plow arm shown in pic 3 parallel with the ground. As it is shown, looks like it will push into the ground rather than float along the ground. Think others have learned that in their plow fabrications as well.
Not suggesting you need to change anything, but something to think about if the plow digs in too much.
Most of my plowing, just the weight and snow load in the plow will cause it to scrape just fine. And not having it dig in is much better if catching a crack in the concrete or asphalt and 'digging' in, or tripping fast, or breaking something. Also don't like sudden stops.
Adding down pressure, just raises the front wheels off the ground enough so that you lose all steering ability. Hard to counteract that loss even with individual rear brakes. To gain some steering, can raise the blade slightly to load the front wheels a bit.

Yes, I've gone back and forth on this several times. The other option is to use a winch. That would allow for lift only, and then the blade could float all it wants. The mounting bracket I will make for the actuator is removable, and an additional bracket could be fabricated if I need to move to a winch solution. The thing that toubles me is, the electric lift option for the X300/500 series also uses and actuator (and rock shaft), and that solution offers down force, as does hydraulic solutions in more expensive tractors. I guess that is what I am trying to emulate. I do have concerns about 'catching an edge' though, and even went as far as doing some work on my drive and landscaping to make it as smooth as possible (gravel drive). There is one area that would be a problem, and I actually put a flag marker in the ground there! The other thing I plan to do is adjust the skid shoes a little high, and then slowly adjusting down if there are no issues. In the end, this is just kind-of fun project stuff and if I don't succeed at first, then I will happily try another solution. Really appreciate your thoughts and experience!!!