Landscape plane questions

[bcp]

Why are wood plane blades set at 90 degrees instead of angled?

What we need is an objective report from someone with an adjustable angle land plane.

A road grader (angled) and the very long wheelbase land levelers (straight) work the soil in a totally different way, so they are not comparable.

Bruce

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Why are wood plane blades set at 90 degrees instead of angled?

What we need is an objective report from someone with an adjustable angle land plane.

A road grader (angled) and the very long wheelbase land levelers (straight) work the soil in a totally different way, so they are not comparable.

Bruce

Actually I have an electric planner for doors where the blades are helical. Muck better finish than the generic planners with the straight blades. I still say that the blades are angled to better deal with wash boarding.

Just my :2cents:

 

[MossRoad]

Actually I have an electric planner for doors where the blades are helical. Muck better finish than the generic planners with the straight blades. I still say that the blades are angled to better deal with wash boarding.

Just my :2cents:

I agree with the washboard comments. The angled blade would slice the washboard ripples very nicely.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Oh jeeze, does this man I need to build 2 of them?

 

[bcp]

Yes, one of each type, then we can trade back and forth to see which works best.



Bruce

 

[sandman2234]

Oh jeeze, does this man I need to build 2 of them?

The answer to that question lies in the amount of material you brought home from your neighbor's scrap pile, the size of the remaining pile, and his willingness to allow you acess to it again.
Other than that, angle them...at least for a tractor. A P/T in push mode could be different but as for me, angle gets the vote. Take a look at DuraGraders movable blades that you can change the angle on, and see if your skills can attain a movable blade. Best of both worlds I would think, though I haven't actually seen one up close.
MtnViewRanch has the right idea as far as the washboarding effect, hands down better than a straight boxblade because it doesn't fall into each rut as it cuts through them. I also use my angle blades for bring dirt back out of the ditch that gets washed down into it, that a straight blade wouldn't be any good at.
David from jax

 

[woodlandfarms]

I had basically planned in th beginning to go with angled blades. Adjusting the depth, though, was not in my skil set as I am lucky to drill a round hole and make a holding weld.

So if I go with angled blades, here are two more questions. Are the blades // or /\. I was planning /\

Second. I planned to put on a final straight blade at the back, at flush depth. But I see this in only one design. And I see /\ in only a few designs.

I am primarily looking to use this on washboarded road ( 1 mile in length).

 

[xtn]

I wonder if angled blades are, in part, used to provide a bit of cross bracing strength to what would otherwise be a rectangle.

 

[bcp]

I agree with angle blades if one of your problems is washboard.

Now, pick your pattern.

 

[sandman2234]

My first response is // but after looking at the nice asortment of pictures posted by BCP, I am more confused at what to to actually suggest than before (and I have one, lol). My hesitations are mostly in the area of P/T pushing versus tractor 3pt hitch pulling, and the capacities of each. There are some neat examples shown, and more on other posts on this board. Your best bet is to consider what the P/T will lift (don't max that out, since mine gets loaded with dirt for my tractor to pick up). I should have put a little more distance between the blades but that is hindsight. My reasons for putting both blades // is to be able to move dirt from side to side and also cover the ripples. ll as we all know doesn't do ripples in the road nearly as well, too much like a boxblade. I wanted to be able to pull dirt back out of the ditch and move it to the roadway, a feat best done by a angled tilted rear blade (runners of a landplane get in the way of this). Extending the blades further below the runners seems to help that, but even that has it's drawbacks.
The good thing in your case is the availability of less expensive metal, which is why mine got built. If you build it and it doesn't work the way you want, the good thing about metal is it can be cut and welded into many different shapes from the same original piece.
You have probably seen it, but here is a post on my build.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/175396-dava-grader-process.html

David from jax