Landscape trailer advice wanted

[NS Gearhead]

Starting to gather parts for a trailer build next year. Just picked up the axle on sale; 3,500lb 60" between the spring pads. I plan to build it 9 or 10' long. 1' solid sides. 4' hinged ramp. It'll mostly be used to move my frourwheeler, but will be used for lumber, gravel, dirt, firewood... anything you'd use a pickup truck for.

I've always used square tubing for my trailers, but I see channel and angle are pretty popular choices for this type and size of trailer. So what should I use? Considering I'll plank it with 2" PT lumber, how close together should my cross members be?

 

[bcp]

I wouldn't use tubing in a rust region. You can't check inside for corrosion. Can you be sure every joint is air & water tight?

I like channel for the main frame on anything more than a light utility trailer.

Bruce

 

[Big Barn]

I wouldn't use tubing in a rust region. You can't check inside for corrosion. Can you be sure every joint is air & water tight? I like channel for the main frame on anything more than a light utility trailer. Bruce

I agree with Bruce. I'd go 18"OC for crossmembers.

Terry

 

[MinnesotaDaveChalmers]

I wouldn't use tubing in a rust region. You can't check inside for corrosion. Can you be sure every joint is air & water tight?

I like channel for the main frame on anything more than a light utility trailer.

Bruce

Yep, I've repaired snowmobile trailers built with tubing fully welded at the joints.

But the screws go into the tubing, so they end up with plenty of water inside.

 

[Shield Arc]

I think you'll find square and rectangular tubing to be quite expensive.
Here is an angle iron and C-channel chart that may be of some help to you.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

I just priced out a 20 foot sawmill trailer. Tubing was WAY more CHEAPER than angle.

I've got a 7 part trailer build video on our youtube site on a trailer nearly identical to what you are looking for. It's a how to. It's a 3500 lb. Axle too.

 

[yomax4]

tried all of them.. any will last more than 10 years. Try to draw the line on frame weight compared to frame strength. Or like I did, Go Aluminum. 3000# 6x10 weighs 1/2 of steel and not that much more to build your own. No primer or paint..

 

[WilliamBos]

Just do what we do for evetything else, buy a gallon of Krown and spray it every summer. No worries of rust and rot.

I wouldn't use tubing in a rust region. You can't check inside for corrosion. Can you be sure every joint is air & water tight?

I like channel for the main frame on anything more than a light utility trailer.

Bruce

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Tubing isn't a problem any more than anything else is. Almost every pull behind cargo trailer is made from tubing. As long as it's coated with paint and welded properly it will be fine. Tubing gives you the best strength to weight ration outside of Aluminum.

 

[Arc weld]

All you have to do on the tubing where the deck screws go through is drill small holes in each end of the tubing on the bottom to drain any moisture that might get inside. Tubing is way more ridged than channel and easier to work with. 3" x 2" a 1/8" would probably be fine for a single axle trailer. If you wanted it a little stronger use 3/16" wall for the front to back rails. Cross members could be 2" or even 1 1/2".