Learning How / field preparation

   / Learning How / field preparation #31  
I was reading in interest until I got to the point where a tiller causes hardpan and a plow would solve this problem. The real farmers as was stated do not use a plow except to break sod. When I was growing up on the farm all that was used was a plow, now they use chiesel plows or tillers. Most only work the surface to a depth that the seed is planted. USing a tiller by tilling in two directions you avoid the problems of hardpan. The more tools you have the better job you can do, but if you are limited in deep pockets, a good tiller and some common sense will do a great job. Throw in a disk and a harrow and you can do the job of real farmers. What ever you do have fun.
Dan L
 
   / Learning How / field preparation #32  
Here in northeast Ohio a lot of farmers use no-till planting for corn, soybeans, etc. The farmer that leases three of our fields is a big believer in no-till planting. Less fuel used in ground preperation is a major factor. I still think that not turning the previous years crop under to decompose the stalks etc. is a waste of fertilizer. Some believe it takes more out of the ground to break it down then is put back to enrich it. What do the members think?

<font color=orange>George</font color=orange> /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
 
   / Learning How / field preparation #33  
George, I've read some about that no-till planting, but don't know a lot. The big farmers in this area use almost nothing but disks to plow the big fields before planting (corn, cotton, wheat, oats, milo, grain sorghum, mostly). And after harvest, they usually mow with big brush hogs, and then use the disks to cut it in. And of course, they make extensive use of anhydrous ammonia for fertilizer.

Bird
 
   / Learning How / field preparation #34  
<font color=blue>I was reading in interest until I got to the point where a tiller causes hardpan and a plow would solve this problem.USing a tiller by tilling in two directions you avoid the problems of hardpan</font color=blue>

First Dan let me say that I'm very sorry to have lost your interest. Now let me try to gain it back with the little bit of common sense that I've got.--Ok--?

Lets say we have a garden that we use a tiller on running two different ways. Now we use the tiller year in and year out. How deep does that tiller go? What happens to the soil at the bottom of the tillers reach? Does that line of dirt have an adverse outcome on the crop? What is the purpose of a moldboard or a chiesl plow? Why are chiesl and moldboard plows made if a disc would do the same job--disc being closest to a tiller?
Tell me where I'm wrong so I can be smarter at the end of the day than the start of the day.
Thanks
Gordon
 
   / Learning How / field preparation #35  
Well, this discussion has got my interest. Gordon I agree that packed soil below a tillers reach will have an effect on crops especially root crops. I am confused as to exactly how tilling the soil causes hardpan. I thought compaction causes hardpan. Certainly a tiller can only go so deep and thats when you would need a chisel tip plow or sub-soiler to loosen the ground deeper. My understanding is a regular moldboard plow is mainly used for turning sod and soil and a disc for chopping (breaking) up the clods into usable soil. As for tilling in 2 directions all that should do is get you a finer till. Interesting for sure.
 
   / Learning How / field preparation #36  
I have a large area of hardpan in one field were the neighbor used to plant corn, wheat, oats etc. He would plow the daylights out of it and could not break it up. It didn't matter how many bottom plow he used, how big a tractor he used, or what direction he plowed. When he hit that spot, whatever plow he was pulling would just come up out of the ground and scratch across the surface. After about 15 years of this he just went to no-till planting. Crop yield in that particular spot isn't much to brag about either way.

<font color=orange>George</font color=orange> /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by GeorgeH on 12/23/00 06:33 PM.</FONT></P>
 
   / Learning How / field preparation
  • Thread Starter
#37  
George,

Get out there with your pick, for heavens sake... that's where the diamonds are!!

Larry ;-)
 
   / Learning How / field preparation #38  
Pick ??? I don't think so. Rock drill and dynamite, maybe!!!

<font color=orange>George</font color=orange> /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
 
   / Learning How / field preparation #39  
When I plant tomatoes, I buy tall skinny plants that won't stand up. then I dig a trench about 3 inches deep down the center of the row and lay the plant in the trench and cover it all except about 4 inches from the top, turn the top straight up and pack dirt around it. Feeder roots will sprout out of all the stem that is covered and provide a lot more nutriants to the plant than just the feeder roots on the bottom of the plant would. jim
 
   / Learning How / field preparation #40  
Jim, when the nursey owner where I buy my plants told me to plant the tomatoes by laying them down that way instead of setting them in straight up, I couldn't believe it, but it sure works; I've been doing the same thing for several years.

Bird
 
 
 
Top