i have an LS tractor I built a canopy out of a golf cart roof i want to put a 24" light bar on it i know nothing about them what wattage will i need to light up the area in front of me . I want to also put a couple 4" sq ones on the rear wattage for those? thanks
led light bar
- Thread starter M E Cook
- Start date
i7win7
Veteran Member
1st determine how many amps your charging system can produce. If you draw too much power you will drain your battery. LED's are more energy efficient and produce brighter/whiter light. Max speed around 12mph? use flood lighting - light bars can include flood/spot light combo.
I use heavy duty wire and 20 amp toggle switches to avoid relays and keep things simple. Think about how you want it to work (relay may be needed) and if other electrical devices are on your wish list.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...ng-electrical-devices-tractor.html?highlight=
I have multiple light circuits 3a = 36 or less watts, 1 - 4a circuit 48 or less watts
I use heavy duty wire and 20 amp toggle switches to avoid relays and keep things simple. Think about how you want it to work (relay may be needed) and if other electrical devices are on your wish list.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...ng-electrical-devices-tractor.html?highlight=
I have multiple light circuits 3a = 36 or less watts, 1 - 4a circuit 48 or less watts
RjCorazza
Elite Member
I put (4) 54w led lights on my tractor (2 front, 2 rear) and the light is awesome, but perhaps over kill. If I were doing it again I think 36w lights would have been sufficient.
My 60 amp alternator is adequate with all lights and accessories on, but just barely. I usually turn off the oem lighting, especially when the heater fan and window defrosters are on.
My 60 amp alternator is adequate with all lights and accessories on, but just barely. I usually turn off the oem lighting, especially when the heater fan and window defrosters are on.
Roadworthy
Elite Member
LED lighting is deceptive. I purchased about a 24" light bar. The ad said 240 watts. I did the math and knew I needed a twenty amp circuit. I fussed, fretted, and decided how to wire it. Upon actually measuring the current I learned it drew only five amps. This works out to an actual sixty watts - well within the ten amp capacity of my existing work light circuit. I abandoned my power upgrade plans for the time being. I suspect the light bar was rated for the amount of light equivalent to a 240 watt incandescent. Look at the lumen ratings for comparisons - if you can get them.
PILOON
Super Star Member
All nice to say.
With the advent of LED's they started rating in LUMENs but nowhere do you find the lumen ratings for Halogen, Incandescent etc so it is really hard to actually compare.
Then the auto industry set maximums based an wattage while we now know it really should be in lumens.
About the only thing you can rely on is the current ratings of wire and the circuit protection required for safety.
A downside to LED's is the wire gauge they generally use as (my opinion) it is too fragile for a tractor environment.
Note I did say FRAGILE (nothing to do with current capacity) and for that reason I prefer to upgrade to a minimum 14 g in most cases.
With the advent of LED's they started rating in LUMENs but nowhere do you find the lumen ratings for Halogen, Incandescent etc so it is really hard to actually compare.
Then the auto industry set maximums based an wattage while we now know it really should be in lumens.
About the only thing you can rely on is the current ratings of wire and the circuit protection required for safety.
A downside to LED's is the wire gauge they generally use as (my opinion) it is too fragile for a tractor environment.
Note I did say FRAGILE (nothing to do with current capacity) and for that reason I prefer to upgrade to a minimum 14 g in most cases.
thanks for all the info guys will do some research and order lights